Micro CoGen.

Some of you may have seen this already. Pretty entertaining.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmcEDeouN4g

Quote from: rcavictim on November 18, 2011, 09:36:24 PM

Quote from: rcavictim on August 22, 2011, 11:16:33 PM

Quote from: deeiche on August 22, 2011, 09:52:59 AM

Quote from: rcavictim on August 22, 2011, 08:43:43 AM
I've had my eye on a 1130 engine.  If I were to somehow get that at least I have a gen head that can handle it.

Here is one on the other side of Canada.

That is the very one I have been eyeing.  That guy was asking $1500.00 for that product until sometime recently.  I'd like to get one before Canada implements the same silly EPA ban on imports.

That $1500,  1130 engine I had my eye on from BC on Ebay just got offered "Buy It Now" for $799.  Reduced a further 20% from the $999 he had already dropped it to for a while.  I did some checking and have determined that it has two counterbalance shafts and is direct injection.  CR is 16.5:1.  1 hr HP= 30.  12 hr HP =27.5.  That is 7.5 HP more than the continuous rating of my mighty Changfa 1115 1.2 liter (1.195) which I am very happy with.  

Here is a 1.6 litre (1.593) beast that I could get some useable power out of slowed right down and add a bigger flywheel mass and retard the injector timing accordingly.  Seeing the expected Canada EPA ban on these engines coming soon following the US' lead and knowing I'd kick my ass if I didn't jump on this now I just pulled the trigger!  

That flat belt pulley is 10-3/4" OD!  The alternator is the size of a regular car alternator and this beast has a belt driven water pump.  All I have to do is add a radiator with fan.

Just what I really needed, another generator project.    Actually I do need the security of a spare engine.

Nice snag!! I've had this on my watch list for a long time.

You're just lucky that I wasn't closer, and had the money, and a way of getting it here, and, and......LOL.

Thankfully someone on here got it.

This evening I disconnected the AVR and wired it without. (After messing with the decompression lever assembly which apparently vibrated loose from the initial test run )

IT WORKS!!

I know I'm going to have to make some better connections after I eliminate the doghouse, but for the initial test run with a load (shop) I'm pretty pleased.

The lights did dim for a couple seconds when I flipped on the air compressor (couldn't help myself ) but picked right up and settled in.

Geez, now I don't know if I'll be able to sleep being I'm as giddy as a 'lil school girl.

Thanks for all the advice.

Russ

As a side note. I just went out to take a look under the doghouse on an ST15 that i bought from Joel Koch a few years back. It has no AVR and I have had no problems with it what so ever. Glad I built the frame of the new 1115 project big enough to fit it up if the need arises.

The gen head I'm trying to figure out is suppose to be an ST15 (according to the tag and book) but is physically smaller like an ST12.When I ordered the parts for the bushed pulley I had to go with one that would fit the ST12 shaft.

I'm beginning to think I have a nice anchor......

Well I took a look at the connections in the doghouse then took the doghouse loose from the head.

I don't know how I didn't notice that there are NO terminals for U5/U6. There's holes for terminals, but that's it. I also don't know how I missed the AVR either. I'm gonna blame it on frustration 

Apparently in China, as long as numbers match, that's all that counts. There are 4 larger wires leading from the head to the doghouse and this is the way they are labeled going to the terminals.

LINE         TERMINAL

Z3            U3
Z4            U4
U2            U2
Z1            U1

The wires come out in 2 bundles, along with 2 medium sized loose wires leading to the brushes.

1 bundle has U2, Z4 and 2 medium wires.
The 2nd bundle has Z1, Z3 and 2 smaller wires.

I attached a couple of scans from the manual that came with the gen head.

Thanks, Russ

Sorry the pics are so danged big......

Ron, thanks for the link. It completely goes against the manual that came with the gen head on the U3/U4 vs. U5/U6. Which really don't surprise me considering the head is labeled 15kw but the shaft size indicates it's a 12kw.

Marcus, Yep, I'm in the U.S. and according to the link provided by Ron the buss indeed needs to go U5-U6, not U3-U4.

Thanks guys. I hope to get back at it this evening and will report back any findings.

So after FINALLY getting back to the 1115/ST12 project the past couple of days I got to do a test run.

Everything seemed to go OK for the initial start, run, check pulley/belt, etc.

Ran it for a while with no load, but did hook my digital meter across the 2 terminals on the outside of the doghouse. Yep, 240 volts.

Did a shutdown and checked things over. Decided to put on a very slight load (shop lights). Started the unit up, flipped the breaker, nothing. Rechecked connections and voltage across the doghouse terminals, still 240 volt....hmmmm. Checked again but used the ground terminal on the ST this time. ?!?!?!? 240 on one leg, 0 on the other??

Any ideas or clues as to what to look for. I checked the small schematic under the doghouse cover and the buss bar is across U3 to U4 with the wires leading to the doghouse terminals coming from U2 and U1. So by rights I should have 240 volts, which I do. Only it's on ONE LEG!! Other than that I just don't know.

For this test I was back feeding thru a double breaker AFTER I killed the main to the shop. Not safe I know, but it was simply for testing purposes only.

Plus new "streamline" design.

That should help with the C.D. in the 'ol generator room....

OK. That make sense having 2. Sounds like a pretty good setup.

If you don't mind me asking Bob, what brand are they and where did you get them?

Thanks, Russ

Thanks for the write up Bob.

So the way I understand it with the solenoid setup it's pretty much "all or nothing" so to speak in the way of throttle control?

In other words, when starting the engine the thottle will be going to the predetermined/ preadjusted setting with the solenoid activated and off with the solenoid deactivated?

That gives me something to think about.

I was simply going to use the shut off solenoid to cut off the fuel in case of a no oil pressure or overtemp condition and use the original throttle adjustment to set the speed. That way (at least in my possibly feable way of thinking) the engine could be slowed down prior to complete shutdown under normal conditions.

That's the way I shut down my diesel cars and pickup after arriving to my destination. Supposedly letting the engine run at an idle for a few minutes allows the engine parts to stabilize temperature wise. Or so I've been told by a few truck drivers.

But, I've been wrong before.

I've been getting the semi-mobile frame done for the 1115/ST15 project and I'm starting to get to the "how can the KISS method and shutdowns can be put into place" part of the project.

Initial thoughts are to use a micro switch on the oil pressure indicator "popper" in series with an adjustable (210°-250°) over temp snap switch. These will be wired to a fuel cut off solenoid valve between the filter and injector pump.

Does anyone see a problem with this type of shut down?

Will using the fuel cut off solenoid valve decrease the life of the injector pump?

Am I even remotely close to having a decent game plan?

Any and all answers, suggestions, comments, etc. are appreciated.

Thanks, Russ

Well today was a fairly productive one.

Removed the sheet metal cover, fan, idler pulley and belt from the cooling system.
Also pulled the gear train cover, rear cover, and valve cover. Gear were all in time, WOO HOO!! Took the governor outer disc off, removed the lock washers and applied locktite to the screws.
Valve lash was a bit much so adjusted that.
Checked head bolt torque and cinched them down. I would say they were on the lower end of within specs.
Checked for casting sand. Didn't find any.

Put it back together and ran it for about 10 minutes. So far no real suprises except a fuel drip from the flexible line. Not too worried about it as I'm not going to be using the stock tank in the end anyway.

Just ran it sitting on a piece of OSB on the garage floor. The "sweet spot" for smoothness seemed to be between 1800/1850 RPM so that's a good deal.

Glad it runs smooth. I'd hate to have to go around the neighborhood asking if anyone had seen my "pet" engine walking around...LOL.

Quote from: vdubnut62 on October 21, 2010, 09:52:06 PM
Playdiesel, what is that 1115's rated hp & speed?
My 1100 is rated 16hp @ 2000rpm. I'm direct driving a 12 kw head and it's more that the engine can carry at full load.
Ron

The 1115 XingDong is home as of 2 hours ago. It's data plate says it's 24 HP @ 2200 RPM. Also came with a 15kw generator.

I did run it for about a minute. The guy said he started it for 1 other person that was interested and as far as I know that's the only 2 times it's been ran.

If I can actually sleep tonight thinking about this project I'll be suprised...LOL.

Quote from: playdiesel on October 21, 2010, 07:52:29 PM
My 1115 has been stripped of all the chinsy tinwork and now rinds a 15KW head at reduced output. It has been a good engine so far abit the noise factor. Good luck with yours.

Yea, I plan to strip all unneccessary "geegaws" and have a basic engine.

What "reduced output" are you running at?

Thanks.

Just got off the phone with a gentleman that has a XingDong 1115 for sale.

I checked it out around a month ago and was debating between it and another engine. Ended up "debating" too long and the other engine sold. Oh well.

So hopefully after tomorrow I'll have a "project" to keep me off the streets and out of jail....LOL.

I'll definately be checking fasteners, gear timing, inspecting for crud, doing away with the stock cooling system, and devising a different fuel tank set up.

Been reading quite a few tips on here so at least I'm not going into this totally uninformed. That's not to say I won't have questions.

Thanks to all the members that have posted their information on these engines.