Micro CoGen.

Sorry this is taking so long.
I collected all the weldable steel elbows and pipe to make the manifold, and found/cut some 1/2" flat stock to make flanges. The turbo is all rebuilt and I have a turbo flange.
I have the discharge hose and clamps for the intake connection.
I just ran out of time before work intervened. It'll be about a month before I can get enough quality time to get it running. 

It will be quieter if the muffle inlet pipe enters the drum at a tangent so the exhaust swirls around the sides. The outlet pipe should be in the center like you depicted. It's called a cyclonic muffler, and they work very well.

Here is the turbo, on the engine:

I'm holding it in place with the discharge hose and some string. I'll fit and tack weld the exhaust manifold in place.
You can see some of the mods I've done already.
On the right side of the pic, you can see the oil line out of the block. It goes up to the bronze heat exchanger, where the oil picks up heat from the jacket water. The oil flows out the top hose, thru the oil filter, and back into the block were it goes into the stock oil distribution manifold to squirt onto the 3 main bearings.
The convective cooling water flow takes a bit longer to get started, but it still works fine. I even have the accursed cross flow radiator, and it still works!

I did get some of the fittings for the turbo project today.
Unfortunately, I found mice and a nest in the glove box in my 1978 Bronco. 
Cleaning up that mess took most of the morning. I'm not sure that it moved out yet either.
Hopefully I'll have enough bits to start welding tomorrow.

10-4

I thought my ASHWAMEGH was clean after a visual inspection. But George talked me into changing the idler gear, and I found black muck in the bottom of my sump.
7 hours of running time when I tore it down, and the bearings looked like your pictures. I'm with Tom on this one.
Oh, my machine came with a suction screen.

Sorry to pop your balloon, but your diesel is not going to last forever.
You might slightly increase the life.
Usually a diesel is near the end of it's service life when it becomes hard to start.
That is a cylinder sealing problem. Rings or valves.
Clean oil has no effect on valve contact wear.
Valve guides don't get much oil either. They usually have seals on them to keep oil out.
Piston rings get most of their abuse at the top of their travel, where there is almost no oil, and that oil is scorched & contaminated with combustion byproducts at every cycle, then shoved downward by blowby then the oil control ring.
I have an oil bypass filter, also a full flow filter, and oil temperature control too. I hope they add life, but don't expect miracles.

It turned out to be simpler than I thought.
I just re-installed the injector, and looked into the COV hole.
Sure enough, there was the injector tip at the top, with the nozzle hole in plain sight.
The spray from it must have been directed at the COV valve, so that air blasting out of the chamber would atomize the fuel spray some more while running in the low compression configuration.
In the case of a COV plug, it's probably been a success because the plug runs a bit hotter than the rest of the head, not having any cooling water passages.
I the case of a glow plug, the injector blasts right onto it. No wonder the shortest protrusion, or recessed plug works well. (based on reports from users)
I'm a few projects shy of testing this, I just pulled down the exhaust system. My turbo project has advanced from selecting and rebuilding the turbo, now I need to make the manifolds and oil lines.
Also, I need to run down to the auto parts store and get an exchange starter.

Actually, you're right. 8 PSI intake boost would increase the compression pressure, but combustion pressure in a traditional diesel cycle is not higher than that. THE PEAK COMPRESSION PRESSURE IS MAINTAINED ON THE PISTON DOWNSTROKE by the injection and burning of fuel over time.
You just reminded me of that.
Still, 8 psi is 50% greater than Atmospheric, so 50% increase in con-rod bearing load on comprssion stroke?
As for progress; I bought a trubo rebuild kit on epay, and the most important parts fit. The turbo just needed freshening up, It went back together easily. Once you do one of these you will no longer think it's a mystery.
Now I'm holding it up to the engine, trying to figure out the most compact and efficient way to install it.
I'm going to make a set of steel flanges, and weld up some butt weld pipe & fittings.

Thanks!
I'm just sitting here thinking about that spray direction.
I just machined the COV plug for a VW 1.9L TDI glowplug.
Now I'm thinking the injector sprays toward it?
I'm thinking I should install the injector in the head, then pop it a few times before I install the COV plug. I'd like to know for sure where it squirts. Maybe I'll make a paper target for the comet chamber so I can see where it lands.

Good reply.
But I'm not home now and won't be until tomorrow. I was just hopping to pick up some advice from someone who has been there already, so when I get back at it, I'll be a bit more prepared.

I just removed one injector from my 25/2. That cylinder was lazy on start-up.
So I swung the injector line to the side, and reconnected the injector. I rolled the engine by hand and observed the injection event.
It cracked nicely, but sprayed off center.
I inspected the tip. It has a single hole, not on the center of the cone shaped tip.
The hole sprays a nice cone shaped fog of fuel, offset toward the fuel connection on the injector body.
Is this normal?

I'm watching a Garrett GT15, on fleabay, it's from an Audi TDI, and is smaller than the TB03 I have. But I probably won't bid.
Right now I'm waiting on the bearing & seal kit, and making plumbing/mounting bits.
The TB03 will be very lightly loaded in this application. I wonder if the exhaust temp will get above 600F?
I need to get one of those infrared thermometer pistol things.

You might try a rotary switch, like a car ignition switch.
"on" to crank, and turned farther to the traditional "start" position for compression release.
To start, rotate the switch quickly tru to the 'start" position, the compression release will be engaged before the starter can fully engage.
Release the "start" postion on the switch to engine compression, yet still keep cranking. Upon starting, turn the switch "Off".
Just a thought....

XYZR;
That's a very nice picture of a very nice piece of work. Too bad it didn't turn out like you planned.
I've got your Idler gear bolt, and the plain upper bearing inserts, fed by ASHWAMEGH hollow dippers (drilled bolts)
I can't help thinking some additional tinkering could have made it work, like a spray shield over the ring dam or something. did you remove the dipper during the trial?
As with my turbo experiment, I presume you did it for the fun of trying to make it better. These engines are a kick to work on.