Micro CoGen.

Try http://www.delcoremy.com/Documents/High-Efficiency-White-Paper.aspx

But not as long as the one going to the satellite

I'm glad to hear you got it working.  I might have to pick one of these up for myself, the power factor correction should be kind to the generator and keep the winding losses down.

You might try to add 1 or 2 small forward biased diodes between the output and the sense terminal. This should simulate a voltage drop in the wiring and raise the output .7 volts per diode. I don't know how much correction the unit is able to provide but you must stay below the over voltage protection set point or it will shut down. Might be worth a try anyway.

Or a whole lot cheaper:  http://gb.suntekstore.com/3-Phase-Diode-Bridge-Rectifier-100A-1200V-SQL100A.html?&utm_source=gbus&utm_campaign=gbus

Something like this shroud fit the bill.... http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2070379_-1
Overkill but safe.

let me digest the datasheet a while and I'll get back to you..

Looks like DC into a charge controller is your best bet. Or the elusive 48VDC alternator.

bschwartz: here is a link to the data sheet of that particular unit:
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/408744/LINEAGEPOWER/CAR3010L1NH-1A.html
Look it over and let's see if we can figure this thing out.

mbryner: the output is adjustable by pot to 43.2 to 58.2 volts. Some of the other other rectifiers in this family type
http://www.datasheetking.com/DSA00383318-datasheet.html have a 'V Program' terminal to set the output to between 40 to 58 volts" One might even to program a micro-controller to make a 3-stage charger out of it!

'For -48 V version, output voltage is -40 V with 2 V applied to Pin 10 WRT Pin 14. For each additional 1 V applied to Pin 10 the output voltage
increases by -2.375 V.'

Not high enough for equalize though. I don't know how much the voltage sense pin can compensate. You might be able to drop the sense voltage by a volt or 2 to get a boost on the output.

-Greg

Something like this  http://www.weirdstuff.com/cgi-bin/item/22081 might be a good way to go.
Wide voltage range input and regulated output. Hook it up directly to the 220v windings and no imbalance!

I remember someone documented what bins to jumper to power it up. I will try to find the information.

-Greg

Charge control is the biggest difficulty with a ST head (but you knew that already).
I hear you can just hook up a rheostat and you are good to go

If anyone knows of a source for a big 48VDC alternator, or one that can be modded to 48V I would also be interested.

-Greg

Tom,
Do you have any 220v loads on your system?
It might be easier to wire everything to 110v and change your outback stacking setup.

I could loan you my auto-xformer to try but it does sound like you are power limited with 1 outback using that much charge current.

Greg

Do you have the number for 911?
Or know of any firefighters in the area?

PS: You could also possibly hook up the primary as well for more copper but I would be concerned about winding imbalance. You probably would just saturate the iron anyway.

Tom,
I would use the secondary windings.  Use the '120-0-120' configuration. Hook the neutral to the X2-X3 connection and the 120V legs go to X1 and X4, and do not connect X2 to ground. You will then have a big auto-transformer. I have a 4KW torrid hooked up this way and it works great to even out the current between the 120V legs.

Greg

It monitors the genset amps. You can set a max current limit and it will shutdown on overload.