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Messages - dubbleUJay

#1
Quote from: Westcliffe01 on May 02, 2010, 09:41:50 PM
WJ - Where are you located ?  I know ZA, but regionally ?


Hello Westcliffe01.
I presently situated in PE, although I've also been all over the place like you. (In ZA that is)
Born in Wellington in the Boland (Close to Vredenburg, use to play school rugby against them)
Use to have great holidays at The Point in Mosselbay.

I'm currently pre-occupied with some personal problems and as soon as they are sorted, I can get my thoughts back to the group and the project I was busy with.

Thanks for the suggestions on hard/software, I'll look into it.
Regards,
#2
It's a bit early in the morning here Ade and I wasn't thinking that far about the distance, its just a meter or three :(
The opto232 bus described elsewhere in this thread by Bruce would work much further, maybe 30m plus.
The BB Arduino has very few external components and going this way would leave you with a few I/O to use at the keypad as well, that can be controlled from the Master.
#3
AdeV, I'm so glad you've seen the "light" ;)
Just a thought on the Keypad you described: In the security industry, most keypads are addressable and with the bare-bone Ardiuno's being so cheap, you could have a slave BB Arduino for each keypad and connect them together with an I2C bus to a Master.
Just a thought as I said, more to show the flexibility of the Arduino and a bit inline with what this project is trying to achieve.
dubbleUJay
#4
Hi guys (Ade)
If you need any info ,just let me know, I'll still post as much as I can, its just that my mind is somewhere else so I'm not going forward or have time with this as much as I'd like too right now.

Ade, ask away, I'm getting notified if someone post on this thread and I will come back to you.

dubbleUJay
#5
Listeroid/Petteroid/Clones / Re: Engine manual
January 13, 2010, 08:10:34 PM
Ken, the second link's pdf is also available in our white paper area for download:
http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=118.0
#6
What makes it even worst is when your 1st language isn't English !!!
Believe me!
#7
Listeroid/Petteroid/Clones / Re: 20/2 crank gear
December 30, 2009, 09:16:30 PM
Ken. I cannot go to that link you provided and the registration seems to be disabled!?!
What gives???
#8
Listeroid/Petteroid/Clones / Re: Fuel Shut Off For 24/2
December 30, 2009, 09:07:20 PM
IIRC, it was discussed somewhere on this forum, actually for a single, but the twin was mentioned. I cant remember if it was actually done and I also cannot find the thread right now.

Jens, can you recall??
#9
Guys, this was my "thinking" as well when I started the Data Acquisition project. I just wanted to get a uniformed method to take the readings with first. It seems that Jens has beaten me to it too a certain degree as he already had a module to get some of the figures from.
It would be a great tool once its finish IMHO.
#10
That's great news Daryl! I've also been hit by the holiday bug! Not myself, but a secondary condition by the people around me! ;)
I thought this year I'll be ready and I could continue to work through it, but things never turns out that way, maybe next year! ;)
#11
Quote from: mobile_bob on December 27, 2009, 10:00:42 PM

which btw, those marks on the flywheel are all in chinese, and god only knows what they mean.

bob g

Chinese mark for Thor, god of lightning! ;)
#12
Members Projects / Re: My Lister SR2 project on youtube
December 26, 2009, 10:55:26 PM
If they introduced themselves with well wishes for "Happy Crappy" in their first sentience, definitely NASA! ;)
#13
Hi Daryl I don't think there's many folks around as you guys are all sleepin', but I'm up, it's 10h30 in the mornin';)
Wilhelm
#14
Once I land back on my feet after all the stuff I'm busy with at the moment, I'll write-up a small paper with pictures of how I did it, it's quite simple though, the crimping tool does a great job.
Afterward I used a short piece of heat-shrink tubing over the wire-end, just to neaten it up.
#15
Jens, maybe youve seen this:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Waterproof-a-LM35-Temperature-Sensor/

I didn't do it exactly like that, but it gave me the general idea.
I also used a RG59 crimping tool to seal the wire end off, filled it with heat compound and epoxy the open end closed.
Two of them that will screw in, I just soldered the copper tubing into NPT threaded fittings before fitting the sensor and wire.
Mine now looks like the automotive ones more or less.