Micro CoGen.

Look in the parts listing book?

Regards, RAB

2 points.

It is no longer a '6/1' if running at 740 rpm.  6/1s were at a rated speed of 650rpm!

The flywheel maximum working rating is being exceeded by 30% by running at 740rpm.  With Indian spoked flywheels, I would not recommend that for all!  It should still be within safe limits, but......

Regards, RAB

Flywheel,

If those big end bearings are any good there won't be so much pressure where your straw is?  Or does the crank pressure supply pass directly across it  It will likely simply be more of an oil slinger!  That is unless there is a decent sized oil-way from the pressure feed to the crank to that hole.  Is there one?  A tiny sqirt will, of course , meet the piston as the piston moves 'down' the bore.

I am wondering how much oil would leak as the feed passes by in, what, micro seconds?

Regards, RAB

Any idea what the wick is made of and what they look like?

I think Hatz may have them listed in various sizes.  Light and smoulder, like the Field Marshall tractors.  One problem sometimes occurs when the wick is not completely burned and lodges under a valve and just sits there reducing compresion to zero.

Made of paper or fibre soaked in a suitable accelerant like sodium nitrate, I would think.

Regards, RAB

rl71459,

Definitive way to find out.  Do it!  It makes not a jot of difference to me, but it may to Jens.

That is one standard method of approach to a diesel engine miss-fire.  Swap the injector to a 'good' cylinder and check to see if the miss moves with the injector or stays with the cylinder.

Jens,

Don't guess, do it! You will then know for sure.

Regards, RAB

If one IP is giving more trouble than the other, there is a simple check.  Swap the IPs over.  One more possibility then eliminated, so you can actually easily get to the root cause of the issue.

Regards, RAB

And on top of the tool you made, the welding heat probably made the job sooo much easier  anyway, by freeing off any rust under the key!

Regards, RAB

CS and a CD?

CD had:

Heavier duty crank main bearings ( 2 on each side).

Heavier built engine.

Wet cylinder liner.

Pressure lubricated.

Dry sump option.

Speed rating at up to 1200rpm. (CD had stroke of 4 3/8").

Clutch and reduction gears an option.

Reciprocating water pump (option).

Pretty well a different engine.

Little or no change over of parts, so all differences are major.

Regards, RAB

Oh dear, turning into a tractor forum!

I have the other green, 12 of them.  Hence my handle.  They are not all Olivers; some are Cockshutt (Olivers) and I have a David Brown (also sold as Oliver) and a pre Oliver buy-out Cletrac HG.  Nothing modern and only one three point hitch among them.

Regards, RAB

That does not leave very much belt contact on the small sheave.

Much less power to transmit as well, so no particular bother?

Regards, RAB

I know, I know, the Indians smack everything together with a big hammer.

But did you know that they knew 70 years ago, and more, that you do not strike taper roller bearings with a steel hammer?  Little wonder they fail early.

For instance, my Wisconsin VE4 service manual (1940s?) warns of the consequences of doing that with a TRB crank.

RAB

Just read through some of this thread.

Couple of points that might be important to get to lower rpms:

IP head:  This might need to be smaller.  Pumps are sized according to maximum injection requirement.  That is obviously at full rpm and full power.  If it is the rack that does not have any adjustment at the speed you are operating a pumping head from a lower power engine (of same original design speed) would be more appropriate, allowing governor control nearer the optimum for that pump head.

Injector:  The injector nozzle may also need to be downsized, either fewer holes of same size or a smaller hole or holes.  This will affect the penetration of the atomised spray into the combustion area and also the size of the droplets.  Pop pressure may also need to be optimised, but I would not wish to make any further comment than that.

Regards, RAB

With the original design, the piston was removed by removal of cylinder.  Piston will then come out of top or bottom.

Rebuild could be the hard way - piston fitted to crank and carefully lower block (well raise piston with the block supported) and the rings are fairly easily coaxed into the bore .  The other way is drop the piston in the bottom of the cylinder, then carefully replace the block onto the crankcase.  Ueithr way needed minimum tools for fitting the piston back in the bore as the bottom edge was chamfered for easy fitting.

The simple modern way is to buy a ring clamp, fit to piston, and gently tap piston into the bore from the top - just like millions of car engines.  Ring clamps can be the simple 'grip' type, for one size of piston, or the adjustable ones which can be expanded, wrap around the piston and are tightened with a screwdriver, allen key or similar.

I have two - one will do down to about 60mm and the big one up to about 150mm or so.  I think either will do a CS piston.

Regards, RAB

WGB,

In UK ours are generally wired differently.  2 x 3kW, one short (top) and one long (to bottom) immersion heater.  Might be a dual (both into top of cylinder or two singles (one in top and one in the bottom).  

Top one is just that - top-up, for daytime use, as leccy is expensive (high grade energy).  

Bottom is for night time running when leccy rates can be cheaper due to production from base-load power stations running 'off-peak' demand.  One tariff, we call E-7, economy for 7 hours in the small hours.  Power at a much cheaper rate (approx 40%). So they operate on a timer change-over.

Otherwise it is much, much cheaper to heat water from primary energy sources.

Regards, RAB

Power is I²R

Half the current, same resistance.

Or look at it how you are doing it.  You are halving the voltage, which will halve the current.

Now using Power = VI

Either way will do.

Regards, RAB