Micro CoGen.

Howdy Bob

I've actuated mine several times (experimental only) and it does take (what seems to be) quite a while to come to a stop something in the area of  10 seconds more or less -  I'd guess heavy flywheels have something to do with it. before I got the intake properly sealed , it would slow way way down but not quite stop running  - eventually had to  shut it down by lever.

As for the solenoid operating the IP for shutdown - i've got over 1200 hours running time with a murphy solenoid - no problems with the pump - so far anyway.

  MURPHY SOLENOID

For emergency shutdown the system works fine with only one solenoid operating only one IP.  No solenoid for decompression - I figure I want the bloody thing shut down when something goes south.  After a coupla overheat(s) (my fault) the engine shut down flawlessly.  How often do you need emergency shutdown due to overheat etc - not very often i would hope - so how many redundant systems are really needed (IP shutdown, decompression shutdown, air shutdown etc)

My air shutdown is intended for runaway or other bad things where I might want to shutdown the engine from a distance (outside the space).

After running the engine I like being on site for shutdown - look for leaks (oil fuel exhaust etc) and other possible problems  - turn the key switch to the solenoid and let the engine wind down then set the decompression levers.

FWIW - Speaking of air shutdown -  lifevests (lifejackets) will keep you afloat but also come in handy smothering a screamin' jimmy.

Cheers, Fred

why do you want to shut down the fuel - is it due to overheat, oil pressure, fire, runaway engine or ?  Reason I'm asking is there are other, faster ways to shut down the engine in the event of an emergency than cutting off the fuel.

Murphy switchgauge gear works well to shutdown the injector pump - I've also fitted a modified 1 1/2 inch quarter turn ball valve for emergency air shutdown that can be actuated outside the generator room,  works well.


Here's some pictures in another thread in the forum , hope it helps

http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=240.msg3017#msg3017

Cheers, Fred

Howdy Casey

I'm looking at the sunnyboy as Jens mentioned for my application because it will be easy to bridge rectify the A/C output to D/C - and the sunnyboys accept a wide range of voltage.

If the utility doesn't care about the source (i.e. wind solar or generator - really it shouldn't matter what the "D/C" voltage source is - then you're golden.

If they do then get an Outback or Xantrex grid-tie with a battery bank - these units have battery chargers and are really reliable (my outback is 5 or 6 years old)  A friend has been grid-tied with his outback and running power back to the grid, but it's a bit more complicated.  Take a 48 volt grid-tie inverter and a standard step-up (down) transformer (check the korean stores - koreans love their electronics and everything in korea is 220 volt)  take 110 volts which will STEP DOWN to 55 volts - just about perfect input for a 48 volt grid-tie inverter - take that 48 volts A/C and bridge rectify to D/C and bob's yur uncle - you'll be putting power back into the grid.  FWIW the korean step up transformers are rather light duty you will really need to wind your own for long term use - really only good for testing purposes but they work.  I  know this works, a friend out here has been doing this for over a year with great success (after upgrading the step-down transformers)

Another way would be to bridge rectify to D/C and then run thru an Outback MX60 but this is a rather expensive option.

Hope this helps

Cheers, Fred

Dunno

Use a clamp amp meter to check the load and then turn stuff on or off to balance the load, not to fancy or scientific - but it works, keeps the growlin' down to a minimum.  Pumps and A/C units work really well for this kinda stuff.

Cheers, Fred

I like that, think I'll go with the modified checkvalve and vent outside. 

Thanks, Fred

That's kinda what I thought, I've taken the breather apart and cleaned the component - but has not had any effect, pressure is normal on the gauge but lots of weeping oil on the deck.

That being said, something is amiss, will have to dig a bit deeper and find the problem.  Thanks, I really want to find the problem, not treat the symptoms.

Cheers, Fred

thanks gentlemen, I'll try the 4 inch over 60 feet and see what happens.

Oh Yeah, "Supertyphoon Nida" (cat 5 Hurricane) has made it's NorthWest recurve and should be slogging thru the Pacific Northwest in a week or so.

Thanks again, Cheers, Fred

Bit off topic, but getting a lot of oil leaking around the tappet collets,  kinda don't want to mess with them cuz got the little buggers spinnin' like four whirling dirvishes - but sick of the mess.  Think I remember it was Xyzer (if not appologies) machined some heavy duty hold-downs.  Would replacing the stamped steel crappy ones withbetter hold-downs do the trick or do I need to pull the collets and install new gaskets - or maybe machine o-ring grooves?

Any and all ideas greatly appreciated.

Cheers Fred

Most of the year the wind carries my exhaust away from my neighbors so no problem.  Recently had a typhoon pass thru the area and with the change of wind direction exhaust was a bit of a bother for the neighbors (can't imagine why - smells like french fries)

Anyway, how far can I go and with what size pipe?  Ive the specs from lister on exhaust size but would like to go farther than listed in the book.

Cheers, Fred

"Other Guy" has been due for a de-carbon job for quite some time. Starting his engine was becoming more difficult so tried using a steamer -  one of those hand-vac sized steamer that uses distilled H2O to clean stuff.  Idea is don't have to worry about liquid water expansion as it's already steam.

Anyway, seems to have worked, expelled some carbon and the engine starts easier.

Will try this instead of the spraybottle with H20/Kerro mix this week.

Cheers, Fred

My indian pump has worked well, no problems, yet.  That being said I picked up a 12 volt Groco pump on ebay to install when the indian pump fails.  Still like the idea of a mechanical pump, maybe one of the smaller jabsco pumps - pricey but easy to work on.

fred

The "bonging" is a good indicator of carbon, the "book" recommends de-carbon every 1000 hours - I've had carbon issues after only 300 hours cuz of wvo and light loads (4000 watts on a 12/2 - very bad) the bonging sounds like a bad bearing

Like everything with these engines kiss rules - the injectors are simple and easy to work on - use a brass wire brush.  A friend picked up a pop tester on ebay very helpful. Testing can be done on the engine but the pop tester makes it easy.

(SAFETY ISSUE  ATOMIZED DIESEL INJECTED INTO THE SKIN WILL KILL YOU AND IT'S REALLY BAD TO BREATH - USE GLOVES EYE PROTECTION AND A RESPIRATOR)

for auto-shutdown (temperature only) I use a murphy switchgage and solenoid - simple and reliable- time and patience and you can get them on ebay cheap.  Looks something like this

Gauges and manual emergency shutdown



Murphy Solenoid



Murphy Solenoid and injector pump activated to shutdown



Wiring diagram




Hope something might be useful

Cheers, Fred

I've got one and they are awesome clean and stable power - only problem, cant use it cuz only ONE leg of 110volt - had to buy an ST head.

Keep it as a backup

Fred

That "Bonging" sound is a great one - time to de-carbon

Fred

Howdy Craig

I start/shutdown on dino diesel and run on veggie and other stuff once in a while - I use a spray bottle with 50/50 water & kerosene once a month or so (sorry not very scientific) but it seems to help.

"Other Guy"  has 14 months operation 12 or more hours per day - (do the math - he wont buy an hour meter).  We were talking about carbon tonight he has two carbon cleanings over the last 14 months - roid is running fine as we speak (veggie oil with start/shutdown on dino diesel).

Cheers, Fred