Micro CoGen.

Stevem,

According to Mobil_Bob the threads on all his 195 drain ports were 1/4 NTP.  My 1115 was for sure 3/8 BSPT. So I purchased an BSPT to NTP adapter from MCMaster Carr. You can probably see it in the pics.

Quote from: Stevem on May 28, 2018, 10:42:28 PM
dmarkh;
     Thank you my friend for the info and photos.  I will knock off your system as far as return to the drain port.  I still have not picked up the fan sensor but will do so shortly.  Been really busy for a few days but will get back on track.  I truly appreciate your taking the time to share your knowledge on this project.  Ateve

You can Thank Mobil_Bob, as everything I did was based off his knowledge when I inquired about the same subject.

Regards
Mark

How much of the rad I had to block off to maintain the 205-215 temps. Without this the TS was controlling the temp. Not the fan controller.

Old drain port converted for pump output

Pump, fan,  and new drain port

Hi Stevem,

I also had the Utterpower block off plate. I blocked off the return after adding the pump. It didn't make since to use it for the return. You will get better cooling having the return go into the drain port, I'm sure. I also had to downsize/adapt the radiator hose to the pump and drain port. I also put a new drain port before the pump. That is where I did the downsize/adapt of the hose. My little pump pumps pretty well. Better than thermal siphon. Here are some pics.

Block off plate return.

Be sure to read up here about the crazy oil pressures on these changfas.

Quote from: Stevem on May 07, 2018, 12:07:45 PM
dmarkh;
     Thank you for the info.  I just ordered the same Bosch pump from Amazon the other day but had no idea about the fan control.  That is a big help since I had no idea that there were adjustable controls available.  Your temp settings seem to correspond with what Mobil Bob states.  I will set up at 215-205 as you guys say.  Very soon now I will be generating power with it instead of running it in front of my shop just to listen and watch it turn.  Thanks again.

Note that with this fan controller only the upper (turn-on) temp range is adjustable. It has by default a 10 degree swing so at 205 it will turn off. But when I ran both fans and did not block off half of my radiator, even after the fans turned off the temp drop kept going down well below 205 which sometimes caused my TS to close. My goal was, as yours, to match what Mobil Bob recommended. 205-215 degrees. Using a single fan and blocking off half the radiator got me there. I ended up running about 80 hrs or so straight and used around 25 gallons of fuel that cost me less than a buck a gallon back in 2014. Which reminds me, I need to refill those fuel cans. I keep 50 gallons in the shed out back just for these damn things. I've got a 15 gallon tank on the gen which gives me almost 2 full days of run time. 

As far as that water pump goes, I'm sure there are plenty to choose from that are available. That little sucker gets pretty damn hot. I'm sure it is designed to handle that heat but I couldn't help but think that in an auto, there must be some air blowing over it. So I ended up installing a small fan I had laying around to help it out. That fan was a 12V/.9 amp Vantec Tornado TD8038H. Oh and my batteries charging system is just an "older style" 6/12 amp battery charger.

Mark

For  my Changfa 1115 direct coupled to an ST15, I used one of these fan controllers:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CNAMMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and adjusted it so the fans come on at 215F. They go off at 205. The fans I used were:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003R2ZYF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My rad was from a toyota. It seems to actually be a little over kill. I only needed one of the fans running for the 80 hours I was without power from Erma and had to block off half of the rad at that. The fan controller worked very well.

I also use one of these for my water pump as my return to the Changa is into the drain port on the bottom.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049PLFGK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was very comfy those 80 hours.  I'm ready for the 2018 season.

Oh, and the water pump is wired directly to the battery with a switch but I've found there is no reason for it NOT to run. The Tstat has a couple of little holes in it with cotter pins hanging to let "some" water pass before it opens. The engine warms up pretty quick.

Good luck.
Mark

Well unless Central Georgia Generator has some older ones still in stock they are probably defective also. I've now got a total of 5 from different suppliers plus 3 from Grainger. I should have gone to Grainger first but they were twice the price as the others. By Grainger's calculation, they are all actually the L150 1 7/8 inch hubs but marked incorrectly as 48mm. Grainger gave me one for my trouble and pointed me to a good machine shop down the street and they fixed me right up for $15. So at least now I have a proper coupler and should get this thing done this weekend. My opinion of LoveJoy is in the toilet. Grainger seemed pretty determined to get LoveJoy to fess up. The Corporate office actually got invovled as I was there. All they have in stock will be returned for a refund or replacements. I did my best to get the other suppliers (online shops) to do the same. I know how that works though.

Mark

Anyone ever had any trouble getting a LoveJoy L150 48mm coupler to fit on a 48mm ST15 shaft? I have now had to return 3 hubs that I purchased from 3 different suppliers. They do not fit the 48mm shafts of the ST15. The ST15 shaft measures right at 48mm but every hub I have received has a bore measurement well below 48mm. They all measure at 47.65xmm. The LoveJoy Eng data book shows that is should measure 48.025mm. I've contacted LoveJoy and all they had to say was, "we haven't had any problems with them for 20+ years". They seem very unresponsive to me. Like, "would you just go away please. We only deal with our suppliers".

I've got this brand new ST15 and can't yet connect it to my driver. Am I missing something? Shouldn't a 48mm bored hub easily slide on a 48mm shaft?

Quote from: vdubnut62 on February 26, 2016, 08:02:00 AM
Lookin' good. Glad you got it sorted out, and no stainless in my st12.
Ron.

I was mistaken about the stainless. Bad magnet at work? Here at home they stick to it just fine.

Mark

It's mounted, It's going to fit under the enclosure, and I think it's aligned  properly. That was fun.

It must be cheap low grade stuff because I do have a real magnet here at the house that does stick to it. The magnet I used at work was just a flexible strip magnet that just fell off it. This is how i cut it.

 

Well once I let it spin, it went pretty fast. Got a nice clean cut too. For most of it, it spun itself with the force of the blade spinning. I just raised it off the chop saw base a hair so there was nothing preventing it from spinning. I didn't have to manually start spinning until there was about 1/4" left. It would have only taken a couple of minutes but I kept stopping to cool it down with ice water in a rag. I'm happy. Now to install it where my ST10 was.

I was very surprised to find a stainless shaft on this of iron.

Mark