Micro CoGen.

Thank you very much!   Now that's good info! 

now that at least sounds like a real answer to a real question.

so now comes a good one back to ya ?   what would sell me 2 of these for ?   new in crates!

thanks i'll look + check with them  monday.      other options still welcome

geeze think rare = scrap  don't sound right to me.   hope someone else can give a real world price.
i'm really looking for a slow speed but i need to really  know what to offer for these as i'll buy and resell.
scrap is a insult to the guy. 

i have the possibility of picking up (2)   4000011ac2a056 engines   bran new still in crate  been sitting long time   guess its a military spec ?   they say 12hp 3600rpm
can these be govern down to 1800   and what max kw will it handle at 1800

biggest question  what are they worth  each or as a pair !!!

the transfer switch cuts the genny power 100% to coach  as soon as the shore power is plugged in.  so should be ok if i go that direction .

well figured it out !  they are running two 120's ( 30 amp) same phase out of the genny combining them at the genny to run a total of 60 amps to the transfer switch.   when on shore power they are letting in 220 ( out of phase) in ,  but when on genny they combine the 120 to feed the 2 legs . since nothing is 220 in the rv all is fine.

  i ran my garage yesterday on the rv genny with all my 220 stuff breakers off i just crossed or combined the 2 panel bars and all was fine.  so i guess it can be done.

all power comes into this unit 1st  weather shore or generator the surge tests for 100% clean power reversed wires ,opens etc before latching any power  it also opens if a high voltage or a low voltage exists  but this part of the system is 100% fine  its just the 1 contactor thats hanging up  the other is exactly the same and works fine.  but would like to replace both with a higher contact rating.
 

 i figure you guys  might have one or at least know where or how to find one or a substitute.
in my 2008  rv there is a surge w/  auto transfer switch.  trc company model # aecm10040ag .
one of the contactors  inside is binding other is fine .  did a temp fix with wd-40 but would like a new one.

they will not sell me a contactor they say its too old ( i bought unit in 2008 new) want to sell me another for $ 800 plus ( no way )
they also do no repairs on their new units out of warranty, basically tell you too bad buy another!

anyway its a 12 volt coil / 3 pole 40amp fla 50amp res.  id really like to put in a 60amp fla .
because when plugged into shore power we get 240 50amp and i believe the neutral is getting overheated and causing the body of the contactor to distort.
i'm sure i can  install a contactor that is 60amp/3 pole  with a 120 volt coil and control that via a ice cube relay between the original 12 volt control wire and the 120 volt coil. all would be fine but would rather find a heavier amp 12 volt one .

the original contactor is a tyco /potter and brumfield # P31E42DFO108-01  problem with tyco they say it was a special order made just for this (TRC ) company.
i just cant believe there isn't someone else making these. its such a simple fix for say $40 verses $800 plus

any leads finding a contactor or maybe a original taken out unit i could scavenge a contactor would be appreciated.



  tom   t1mower@verizon.net

found another   its a dogbone !


50 Amp to 30 Amp Dogbone Adaptor

At times it becomes necessary to power an RV with a 50 amp service when there is no 50 amp receptacle available. The standard 50 amp receptacle is a NEMA #1450R. Unlike the 30 amp NEMA TT-30R, this isn't an RV-only receptacle and can be found in industrial applications as well. It's a 4 prong outlet that has two hot wires - L1 and L2, as well as a neutral and ground wire. Any RV dealer or RV accessory store will offer an adaptor, that is commonly referred to as a dogbone adaptor, which is illustrated above. This adaptor will let you adapt your 50 amp plug to a 30 amp so that you can plug your 50 amp RV into a 30 amp RV receptacle if that's all that is available. When you do this you'll be limited to 30 amps of power though. The dogbone adaptor will connect the single 120 volt hot pole to both the L1 and L2 inputs of your RV's 50 amp breaker panel. When you do this you will have the same phase across L1 and L2 so there will be no 240 volts available. But, seeing as how 99.9% of the RVs made don't use anything with 240 volts that's not a problem. In this situation all of the power will be going down the neutral wire. But, you are only sending 30 amps to the panel and your neutral wire is rated to handle 50 amps so you'll be fine. You will have to be careful to manage your loads when running on 30 amps. If you fire up all of your air conditioners and water heater you are going to blow that 30 amp pedestal breaker so you have to watch what you turn on. You can also add a second adaptor to change the 30 amp down to a 20 amp plug if you have to but then all you're going to be able to do is keep the batteries charged and maybe run a few lights

In the next section we'll talk about transfer switches and how they switch between shore power and a generator set.

heres something quick i found .  http://www.cumminsonan.com/www/html/Common/pdf/specsheets/a-1408.pdf..

dont think mines a qd but close   think this is just a newer model

yes you got it  15,20,30 amp are all 1 hot leg.  50 amp is 2 hots.   heres the trick they do! when you have a 4 wire ( 2 hot legs) 50 amp plug as i do on the rv.  there is a adapter pigtail you plug into then it comes out with the 30 amp plug  and inside the adapter it actually takes the one leg from the 30 and combines the 2 legs on the rv plug.
  its done this way as many parks dont have 50 amp service. 

i'm going to try and get my  onan 8000 hdkak schematic to see whats actually up.  i looked yesterday real quick and it says 2 pole 33 amp.  something is amiss here.
also noticed it said (spec k) so maybe it got the  why,delta, cross thing going  ( like a 12 wire head ) .     
   but when i looked at the wire hookup inside panel  it had black,white,green.   maybe the rv manufacturer actually used the green as a hot since this whole unit is mounted in the frame and would be considered grounded.  not safe but  these guys will sometimes do cheap things to save a buck or 2 on wire    will get the volt meter out tomorrow maybe.

nothing offered from factory,   1800 is a genny rpm . peak i think is 2200.

rv a/c's run on 120 ,  when plugged into a 30 amp there is only black,white,green

without spending 1500 dollars
id like to know if theres a alternate way to turbo a diesel .
  how much torque and hp would a turbo increase on a kubota 3 cly d950  which is about 18 hp now ( 950cc)