Micro CoGen.

Ohhh for some reason I saw that both were 12v power and assumed that meant +12V each, wondered why 2 were needed! I guess I need the rj25 after all.

Thanks so much guys!
Yes I got those mixed up sorry, I did use the voltmeter to figure out the RY8 starting relay, the problem is, when I put the voltmeter on the other wires they measure 12v so if I hook them up it would have the glow plug on the whole time it seems like.

I guess what I am really confused about is the common/ground, there doesn't seem to be one on the wire, I guess that means that the factory module physically connected to the inverter and used that as the ground?

I don't think I need a timed pulse control, the generator itself does that if it's given a short shut down pulse.

Xantrex no longer makes the generator start module for the SW5548+ but I found the pinout here: http://www.wind-sun.com/ForumVB/showthread.php?13831-Generator-Start-Module-for-SW-Plus-4024
I have already installed automotive relays on the start and stop signals to the generator so I can start/stop it from the house manually which has been working fine, I provide +12v from the house with a transformer and send it down to the generator through some CAT5.
I've managed to get the generator to start but can't figure out the the stop relay ( RY8 )

Quote
Pin 1 and pin 2 are 12V Power supply to the GSM
Pin 3: RY7 signal
Pin 4: RY8 signal
Pin 5: RY11 signal
Pin 6: not used

RY7 is used for ignition enable/disable, or glow/stop with a diesel. This is set in Menu Heading 25 under 25A, depending on whether you select the GS, RN1 or RN2. GS (Glow/Stop) provides a momentary glow plug and stop signal to RY7, RN1 provides a continuous RY7 signal for engines that require ignition "on".

Cranking is provided by RY8.

RY11 is an alarm relay.

All three relays in the GSM have a common, NO and NC terminal.

What are common, NO and NC? Common is the negative terminal?
It says common but there is no common on the pinout?
Since I don't seem to need pins 1 and 6 I can just use a RJ11 instead of a full RJ25 jack?
The RJ11 jack I have hooked up has:
Black
Red
Green
Yellow
Can some one help me figure out what to hook where?
Thanks!!
-Jedon

I just ordered 5 off eBay
5 x SEP KBPC5010 Metal Case 50A 1000V Bridge Rectifier

My Metro 6/1 and Lister SR2 have been gathering dust since I'm running mostly on sun and hydro with some backup from the Onan 10K.
Spring projects had originally called for 4 more 200W PV panels and another 600ft of penstock for the hydro, looks more like summer projects now.

I didn't measure this myself but my main generator ( Onan 10K) is:

Typical fuel consumption
No. 2 diesel fuel, Gal/hr (L/hr) No load Half load Full load
10HDKAG  0.29 (1.10) 0.55 (2.08) 1.04 (3.90)

10K watts at full load, 1g/h so around 10KW per gallon according to the specs?

I feel like we are long lost brothers Marcus, we have done so many of the same things! My hydro is working pretty good right now, 3.8A at 49V. Spring project is to run another 400ft or so of 3" PVC through the steep canyon, luckily we are too high elevation wise to have much poison oak. You tend to do things more "right" than I do though! I'm wondering if I can make my own coanda screen, my screen intake is always clogging up and $300 is steep for a piece of sheet metal with some holes in it.
-Jedon
Harris Hydro Pelton Wheel, Metro CS 6/1, Lister SR2, Onan 10K etc

There is a temp gauge so I should check what it reads after 30 minutes to make sure it's getting hot enough.
There is a cord coming off the engine that looks like it's a block heater, I should use that? Winter/Summer?

So I got this set up and running and hooked up some solenoids so I could start and stop it from the house and it has been working great.
I have it set to charge with 33A per phase so 7260 watts, I then turn on the well pump ( 1800W ) so a total of about 9060 which would be 90% of the 10K capacity. Now it only takes about 20 minutes for bulk charge to complete since I only have 8 220AH golf cart batteries, so after that it runs at far below capacity unless I turn it off.
I've been thinking that the most efficient way to run it would be to set it up to auto start at 48.8V on the battery bank, bulk charge them for 30 minutes and turn off? The old 80/20 charge method where the batteries never really get into float except they probably will during the day when I'm getting enough solar power and the hydro is going.
This might prematurely wear out the starter and shutoff solenoid? Anything else bad about cycling the engine? Would it be better to just let it run for a few hours in the evening after it finishes bulk charging?
I don't have have a fuel gauge on the tank, looks like it's around 70 gallons. I guess splicing in a sight tube is the easiest? Is there some kind of float gauge I could monitor electronically?
Thanks!
Oh and Happy New Year!

Thanks! I was just going off my ST-5 that I added an AVR too, I guess brushed and brushless are different in that way and/or the ST-5 has at least some regulation features already?

My neighbor has a multiquip dca-15spx3 generator and the AVR harness fried, can he just connect the two wires going from the generator to the AVR together to bypass it for now or does it need that for the field regulation?
Thanks!
-Jedon

Sounds easier than transforming down and rectifying my st-5 output? Interest depends on price as usual :-)

Thanks again everybody! My neighbor runs his house off a 80KW with 14000 hours on it, changes the oil every 200 hours.
Seems like it is a good deal, when I build my barn I'll move it in there to run the shop type stuff and be a backup power location.

Thanks everybody!
I am planning on adding 8 more batteries in a month or two, would that help?
My SR2 smokes like crazy and I'm sure it slobbers all over the place since even though it's smaller ( 5.7KW ) after an hour of charging the batteries we leave it on to watch TV and let the batteries go into absorption for a couple more hours so at that point it's probably idling and we've treated it like that for a couple years.
My Metro 6/1 with ST-5 would be the right power level at 3KW but it lacks a few features like remote start and stop and it flickers the lights like crazy.
Optimally I'd spend some time engineering a remote start stop for the 6/1 and run the output into a golf cart charger to remove flicker ( I do have an AVR but doesn't help much ).
Then another battery bank, 4 more PV panels and extend hydro penstock.
In the meantime however, it would be nice to have something reliable, quiet and automated that eventually would be the backup but might function as primary evening power for a year or two.

Sorry for my ignorance, but what is wet stacks?
I currently feed the batteries a max of 40A @ 110V ( 20A from each side of 220V Lister SR2, 20A into each inverter )
I could run our well pump at the same time, another 1800W
What are the downsides of never running it hard enough? ( wet stacks? carbon build up? )
Thanks!