Micro CoGen.

Henry, I have been busy doing the annual inspection on the PA28-180.  I did look at the Wix specifications for the two listed filters and found that the bypass valve setting for the long filter I have installed (P/N 51344) is 8-11 PSI.  The bypass setting for the short filter (P/N 51064) is 16 PSI.   I picked up some 10W-30 Rotella T5 and a Wix 51064.  I ran the engine under load for about 20 minutes to warm the oil before I changed it and the filter never bypassed so I did not change the oli and filter.  Since I have been busy and I have not run the engine again I left it as is for now.  I should be able to get back at it in a few more days.

I used a Wix 51344 filter and Shell Rotella T 15W-40 oil. OAT was around 88 degrees F.  This has me concearned, I will try a new filter and if that does not do the trick I may have to get in touch with a Kubota engineer and see if they are familiar with this issue.

I will try a new filter and see if it makes any difference.  If I remember correctly there was also a filter bypass valve that was visible inside the oil filter adapter.  Maybe I will swing by the Kubota dealer and get an original filter.

I got the D905 serviced and running last week.  I was hearing an intermittent strange noise that sounded like a high pitched squeal, or a piece of sheet metal vibrating that I could not make sense of.  Yesterday I ran the engine again and I think I have isolated the location of the noise.  The noise was coming from the front of the engine and in the process of trying to locate the source I placed my hand on the oil filter.  When the noise is heard I can feel a high pitch vibration in the oil filter, this lasts for about 15 seconds at a time.  I think the oil filter may be bypassing as it sounds just like a bypass in hydraulic system. The strange thing is the noise happens only happens after the engine gets up to temperature.  You would think that if the filter was going to bypass, it would happen when the oil was cold, or maybe the filters internal bypass is malfunctioning when it gets hot.  Any ideas?

Thanks Greg, Just to be clear, does this CT monitor the main alternator (genset) output, or engine battery charging alternator current?  It may be a while before I get the cash to finish all this cool stuff.

Thanks Greg, I looked at the DSE710 and I think that may be the way to go.  I like the ability to monitor alternator current.  Did the controller ship from the US or from China?

Henry, What are you planning to do about overtemp and low oil pressure shutdown?  My engine has a temp sender in the thermostat housing but nothing else.  I have been looking at several controllers and have not made any decisions.  These two look nice   
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Deep-Sea-Generator-Alternator-Controller-DSE702-/280584565483?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415424b2eb   
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Gas-Generator-Controller-GTR116-Multi-Function-/150621967579?pt=BI_Generators&hash=item2311c4d4db

Still do not have any ideas as to which temp/pressure switches I may use.

Henry, the engine has been run before so I will not get a chance to be the one to break it in the right way, but I will run it under a load for good measure.  This engine/alternator was apparently used to assemble and verify fit and function for the prototype light tower for the '06 year model.  It has very few hours and does not even have any rust on the bare cast iron exhaust manifold.  Thanks for the tip on the manuals, I will get them on order soon and pick up some 15W40.  The radiator screen I was referring to was the one on the front, my unit has the screen around the fan. 

Randy, my unit was assembled by Ingersoll Rand and it uses a Leroy Somer alternator.

Henry, good news!  The D905 engine/generator that I missed out on a couple of weeks ago came back for sale after the first guy backed out due to lack of funds.  So today I picked it up at the freight dock and took it to the hangar.  This engine /alternator is a NOS '06 leftover unit from the Ingersoll light plant assembly line.  All I need to do is build a base and plumb in a fuel tank and turn the key.  The alternator is even wired with an electrical panel, although no gauges were included with the engine.  All fluids were drained proir to shipment so I picked up a gallon of 10W30 Rotella 5 and some antifreeze at wallyworld.  After looking at this post again it looks like my engine has the deep sump oil pan so I guess I should pick up a couple more quarts of oil.  Do you have a good part number for the oil filter?  I looked at the Wix website and they list filter P/Ns 51064 and 51344 for the D905E engine.  The only apparent difference between the two filters is the length, the 51344 is an inch longer. 

Two other things I need are the service manuals and the part number for the radiator screen that you have on you're set-up.  Would you happen to know where to locate these?

Yanmar TNE series governor kits on fleabay cheap! Hope someone can use them for this price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290427224627?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Is that a Tillotson carb hanging off the side?  Most small two strokes use Wallbro pumper carbs.

Thanks for all the information guys!

Rom, what is the make and model of you're centrifuge.  Me likey!

I agree that the power output numbers for the CMD unit do not seem possible, but the concept is interesting.  The "L100" clone I am looking at is rated for 10HP so maybe it is really a "L186".

Veggie, you're set up looks great!  What kind of alternator is that?  What is the fuel burn at 4kw?  Are you happy with the unit?

Thanks, Mike.

Looking at the engine specs for the Chinese L100 clone it appears that 2000 RPM would be the best engine speed.  At this speed the engine makes 8 H.P. and consumes 250 g/kw-h of fuel.  This could be a cool project if a decent inexpensive alternator could be sourced.  Cheapest one I could find that would probably be reliable would be an ST.  Even with an ST the total cost would be approaching the cost of a complete Chinese diesel genset, and would only be worth the time and money if the fuel burn and overall unit reliability were better than the commercial units.  What do you guys think?