anybody running one of the pm heads?
how are they working out for you?
did you change over from an st head to the pm head? if so
how do the pm heads compare to st heads in power output for fuel consumed?
anybody?
bob g
I am curious also , i have been looking at the one at Utterpower . I see Ga Gen has a couple also
I have an st-5 from Ga Gen (Tom Osborne). I am about to buy a PM gen head from him in the next few days. Although I don't have any plans to implement any fuel use tests, or even carefully detailed power output, I will gladly give my general novice impressions of both after I receive it and put it through a few hours of use. Looks like I may be the first on this board to get one from him.
Looking forward to the comparison.
Quote from: bschwartz on September 29, 2009, 09:43:38 PM
I have an st-5 from Ga Gen (Tom Osborne). I am about to buy a PM gen head from him in the next few days. Although I don't have any plans to implement any fuel use tests, or even carefully detailed power output, I will gladly give my general novice impressions of both after I receive it and put it through a few hours of use. Looks like I may be the first on this board to get one from him.
Looking forward to the comparison.
Welcome aboard bschwartz
Yes by all means there are many here that would like feed back on a PM head.
Please take pix, yes I know there are some pix on the net but more are better.
Even better would be pix of your head disassembled. ;)
billswan
There are times when my wife wants to rip my head off..... but disassembled?
I would advise not attempting to take a PM head apart just out of curiosity and/or to take photographs. I suspect a special jig will be reuired to pull and re-insert the armature as there will be potentially damage causing magnetic pull involved and acceleration of the rotor to stator that could cause an accident and damage.
I plan on pulling mine apart as long as billswan is offering his fingers (I'm kind of attached to mine).
I assume all references to pulling a PM head apart are all made in jest. I think we all realize the tremendous forces involved.
Just bit the bullet and ordered a 6.5 K head from Tom.
Yes guys after some thought I agree it would take a jig to get a pm head apart and together without damage.
Sometimes my brain has a brownout. But my guess is most here would love to see the insides of a PM genhead. At least I would.
Billswan
I will soon be starting assembly of small genset using a 3kw PMG from George B. at www.utterpower.com It will be powered by the Perkins 402-c 05 mini diesel, serpentine belt driven and engine operated at a reduced rpm. Stay tuned! flywheel
i for one am looking foward to seeing your project develop
and i am liking how this forum is filling out too
bob g
I have an oddball PM alternator. It is made in England (that goes a long way to explaining this). There is a big metal plate that says it is made with UniFied Threads. Well gee I hope so. This means the bolts are the same thread as the nuts right? :D :D :D It is old school so does not have neo magnets. specs are:
1.2 kVA
1800 RPM
340 volts single phase, 3.5 amps
1200 Hz. Yes that's twelve hundred Hz. Must be lots'a poles! :o
I am thinking of putting it in my wind turbine as that auxiliary starter battery charger power supply. After a step down xfmer and rectifier this will be able to put 50 amps into a 24 volt battery bank. It could also support some CFL or LED tower lighting.
I would love to get one of those PM alternators you guys are talking about here for this machine. I want to install a smaller secondary alternator that will make useable power when there is not enough wind to wake the big boy up. 3-4 kW would be ideal.
I AM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just got up and running on the 6.5 K PM generator head from Tom Osborne!
Voltage droop seems less than the ST-5. Flicker is slightly less, although still there due to the 6/1 power pulses. No groaning when one leg is loaded higher than the other. Unlike the ST-5, voltage DOES NOT SWING when only one leg is heavily loaded. I LIKE IT !!! Microwave sounds better and so does the hot tub pump. Let the questions begin........
One thing about the PM heads- they have the cleanest AC output of any genhead in terms of high frequency EMI, they have zero conducted EMI.
On all other heads it's caused by the diode bridge. Even the brushless heads.
Bruce:
you mention the conduction of emi from the diodes?
i am most interested in that which is conducted from the diodes on brushless units
the ones where the diode is mounted within the rotor.
are you stating that the diodes conduction properties (switching) can end up impressed
onto the output of the stator? or rather impressed onto the 60hz sinewave?
the reason i am interested is i am getting some wierd switching crap being impressed onto the rotor
with a specific brand of regulator/controller that ends up being impressed onto the stator output,
which makes it onto the DC output after the AC is rectified.
sort of like a transfomer effect ontop of the normal generator function.
this is something i am trying to document, and will work to explore and illustrate on an oscope when i get
to feeling better again.
Bschwartz:
you are powering with a 6/1, can you tell me how many kwatts the pm head will deliver over that of an st5 from your engine?
sort of an comparative test of efficiency, where if you get for instance X watts from the ST head at max output of the engine
and now either X-300watts or X+300 watts from the pm head.
where in this case if X = 3000, then in the former case (x-300) the pm head would be approx 10% less efficient, and in the latter
10% more efficient.
i doubt there is a huge difference but i am very interested if there is any difference and particularly how much.
also, how much voltage does the head produce at no load and how much at full engine load
basically _________ volts @________ hz , no load
and _________ volts @ ________ hz , full engine load
with that we can determine that particular heads regulation at that point in the curve, figureing that you can
get 3000 watts from it with the 6/1,
it would also be nice to see those numbers at 4, 5 and 6 kwatts output, but we would have to wait for something
bigger for a 6/1 to get those.
if at all possible, and if you would do the test
it would be very useful if you could do the test listed above at perhaps
1kwatt, then 2kwatt, and then at 3kwatt so a curve might be established
i for one am very interested in such a report on any pm head, having not seen such to date, and
hearing all about the virtues of such machines. i will have to check utterpower.com George may have
posted a similar test i can't remember just now on his head. iirc it holds its voltage very well up to and
beyond its 3kwatt rating up to about 4 kwatts, but i am not sure.
thanks to both of you
bob g
I'll try to put some numbers to it in the next day or two. I didn't think to get some exact readings off the ST-5 before pulling it out of the loop. What I can say is that I was NEVER happy with the voltage fluctuations between loads particularly when unbalanced. One reason I went with this oversized PM head is that I often have unbalanced loads as different units switch on in the house (refridgerator, freezer, microwave, hot tub, dish washer, clothes washer etc.), and sometimes the heavy loads are sharing one leg. I wanted to know that the generator could supply all the power the 6/1 could put out on one side or the other. So far, the voltage droop seems very reasonable. Just from quick checks of the kill-o-watt plugged into an outlet in the house, I didn't know if there was a heavy load on the generator or not. Let me explain a little. On the old head, I could tell when there was a load by watching the voltage drop. Now, I had to check the frequency to know. Give me a little time, and I'll get some real readings, and pictures.
Bob, In brushless heads, there is good transfer of the diode noise from the exciter back through the field coil to the connected AC, even though the exciter to field coil is radiated, not conducted. The EMI is radiated (both H (magnetic) and E (electric) fields) at the exciter.
While noise suppression caps are easy to add to the diode bridge on a brushed head, it's going to be a bear with a brushless head.
Most AVRs on the market are also guilty of introducing significant EMI on the AC. They bang high voltage with extremely fast rise/fall pulses, and don't have optimum circuit design for controlling EMI. For my AVR (not the simple model) I used two darlington bipolar transistors (TO-3 "cans") for controlling excitation pulses, and slow the rise fall time to 200 usecs. I didn't do this on the simple circuit board as most people don't care about EMI. To convert the simple PCB design, just use external power transistors, change the drive resistor and add a small cap to slow the rise/fall times at the darlington base.
anybody running a pm head?
I'm usually running to the head in the am. :D
First numbers are in
frequency leg 1 load leg 1 voltage leg 2 load leg 2 voltage total load
61 0 W 121.2 V 0 W 121.3 V 0 W
60.3 890 W 118.1 V 0 W 120.2 V 890 W
59.9 1525 W 116.3 V 0 W 118.9 V 1525 W
58.8 1415 W 113.7 V 1650 W 114.9 V 3065 W
58.6 1765 W 116.8 V 1610 W 113.3 V 3375 W
Metro 6/1 on WVO (soybean) 4200 ft elevation, Georgia Generator 6.5k PMG
all readings from two kill-a-watts (the last readings had the Kill a watt on leg 1 flashing)
I don't think the engine will do much more without heavy smoking, but not bad for free fuel.
Considering your elevation I think those loaded numbers look quite good for a 6/1. Quite good indeed.
I agree, those are good figures for a 6/1 at 4000ft even on dino.
When looking at the rear of the PM head from Georgia Generator, is the back also sealed? Basically, is the whole unit sealed tight similar to the unit from Utterpower?
I'm curious because they mention that it has a metal fan on the Georgia Generator site. I am wondering if it's sealed because I wouldn't want those magnets attracting metal filings...
Anyone seen one in person to know?
Thanks,
Steve
No, they are not sealed like the utterpower units. They are open on the bottom with cooling vents. They would attract metal filings if present I'd think. In order to get stuff in them, they would need to suck from the bottom, as they are closed off top and all sides. That aside, I would think that any generator head will have magnets when spinning. These seem less likely to easily get contamination inside compared to the ST head (I have both). Anything else you'd like to know?
Hi bschwartz,
Nope.
Thanks!
The genesis of my question lies in the fact that I do lots of welding and grinding in my shop. I asked because there are always LOTS of metal filings around and am concerned about them being attracted to the head and ultimately ending up inside if I were to go that direction...
Looks like an outbuilding may be in my future just to be safe.
Thanks again,
Steve
Steve, you can put a few (or one) magnet/s close to the openings to act like a magnetic air filter should any fillings pass by!
Just an idea.
Steve:
from what i have seen the pm heads are sealed up from fan airflow
the fan draws air into the shroud end grill and is directed over the finned exterior
of the case,
the idea being the stator heat is transmitted through the outer case and dissipated in the fins
this leaves one distinction between utterpowers head and the other pm heads, that being
how do you effectively removed the heat from the rotor?
the rotor should have less heat being a pm field as opposed to a wound field, but there
will still be some heat generated in the rotor due to induction back from the stator into the
rotor magnet pole pieces, how much heat? i have no idea.
apparently there is a significant concern with the rotor heating because the utterpower manufactures
decided to use a hollow shaft to allow for airflow through the shaft.
having said all that it is commonly written about in design text that a very large portion of the heat
generated by a wound field and back induction heating from pole faces (hysterysis and eddy currents)
is transferred back down to the shaft and through the brgs as hard as that is to believe.
(to me that seems like a long ways to go to get heat dissipated, but apparently it is so)
there is significant text in relation to specific lubrications being developed to handle and aid in transmission
of the heat from the rotor, through the shaft, through the inner race and to the outer race and into the case
ends.
i guess it stands to reason that getting airflow through tight airgaps in a rapidly spinning rotor might be sorta difficult
under any but very forceful application. forced blowers consume large amounts of power so i guess it stands to reason
a designer might want to avail himself to using time tested means of heat transfer.
as far as the utterpower pm heads they appear to be very well built, sealed to exclude damn near all entrance of
particulate matter, and have the hollow shaft. i also believe that if another seller of those heads might also rate
them closer to 4 or 5kwatts, so it is probably something that speaks well of George to rate them conservatively
at 3kwatt and have a head that will run continuously under just about any possible conditions without issues of failure
giving the units a bad name.
you know how it goes, something that is new better be at least adequate, because if it fails in significant numbers there
is no way to reclaim the reputation later, or rather darned expensive to do so.
i don't know anyone running pm heads of other manufactures or from other sellers, perhaps they too are good for their
ratings and will prove to be dependable,, i guess we won't know till we see a few out in the field with reports coming back
about how they are doing.
anyway thats all i think i know :)
bob g
Quote from: Jens on November 29, 2009, 10:39:38 PM
Grinding dust gets into places you didn't know eve existed. It has an uncanny ability to teleport into the tiniest of enclosed and hermetically sealed spaces even if that space is under 50 feet of water. It's bloody amazing! If someone could harness the teleportation feature of grinding dust and direct it to a predetermined area, we could just cover ourselves in grinding dust and teleport everywhere and we wouldn't have global warming issues.
Jens
;D ;D Could you write a paper about this pretty please ???
Since I'm the resident EMI harpy, I'd like to add that a PM head has the best quality AC available today- while you may have some low frequency harmonics, there is NO high frequency EMI, the stuff that appears to accelerate cancers of all kinds and cause autoimmune diseases as well.
Brushless and Brushed generator head both put a lot of EMI on the line because of excitation diode noise and because of PWM AVRs, if present. The cost of high end filtering of a typical brushless head exceeds the cost difference.
On the brushed heads, diode noise suppression via 4- 0.1uF metal film caps, one around each diode of the bridge, is fairly effective, but you can still hear it on on AM radio, so if you wanted clean 60Hz, you still have to add an external filter (multistage LC), preferably surplus military grade. I have a design for low EMI AVR which is available on request, but there is no PCB for it.
Bob, as I don't see anyone else chiming in about PMGs I'll say that I've been REALLY happy with my 6.5K from Tom Osborne. I chose it over the utterpower unit due to loads available. The Utterpower unit is a 3K unit which I think would only provide a continuous 1.5K per 120V leg. Although I only have a 6/1, it reliably puts out a little more than 3KW, and my loads are almost always unbalanced. I might have 500w on one leg and 2300W (or more) and 5 minutes later after the hot tub switches off, and we are cooking in the microwave, the loads may swing the other way. All the time, voltages are rock steady!! Yes there is voltage drop as the oid slows down from the load, but the voltages are nearly the same on both the loaded and unloaded leg. I also liked the idea of a sealed unit, but I thought size would be more important to my situation.
-Brett
Quote from: bschwartz on November 29, 2009, 03:51:00 PM
No, they are not sealed like the utterpower units. They are open on the bottom with cooling vents. They would attract metal filings if present I'd think. In order to get stuff in them, they would need to suck from the bottom, as they are closed off top and all sides. That aside, I would think that any generator head will have magnets when spinning. These seem less likely to easily get contamination inside compared to the ST head (I have both). Anything else you'd like to know?
As a new kid on the block, here on this forum, I'd like to describe an instance that happened to me that deals with magnets attracting contamination.
I'd found an old 1903 Stanley handplane that had been stored on its side. From moisture of a wooden storage shelf, rust had pitted that side, so in my workshop, I was using a 6"x 36" upright sanding belt to smooth the rusty and pitted sides. The belt/disc sander is 30 ft. from the end of the shop where a return air filter is for a corner heat furnace closet. About 6 ft. from the return air, between it and the distant belt sander, I have a metal storage cabinet with doors. One the inside of the metal doors, I store odds and in's of different size magnets I find from time to time.
After, I'd finished flattening the sides of the handplane, I walked past the metal storage cabinet only to see patterns of blackish dust collected in the shape of the strongest magnets. Air currents from the furnace blower had pulled Metal filings that traveled over 20 feet!!
Like the after-market magnetic drain plugs for your auto's oil pan, I like the idea of putting some magnets in front of the PMgenerator's cooling ports.
By the way, I'm having trouble typing in this box as the last few lines keep jumping down under the bottom border even though I have extra blank spaces below this. Any ideas how to correct this distraction?
It''s good to be here,
Bill
Welcome to the forums Bill!
The observation you made is valuable to know. Taking precautions such as you suggest by using a magnetic structure at the cooling air inlet of a PM alternator sounds like a good idea.
As far as stuff jumping around on your computer screen, have you tried holding it in place with a piece of scotch tape? As you can see I'm clearly the person you want to talk to for practical solutions to common computer problems! :D
Sounds like you have a keen interest in woodshop stuff.
I use a magnet to hold stuff on the computer screen. Pretty rainbows and such...
Quote from: mike90045 on December 17, 2009, 09:10:07 AM
I use a magnet to hold stuff on the computer screen. Pretty rainbows and such...
Great idea Mike. That will also keep airborne ferrous metal particles from clogging up the pixels!
Quote from: mike90045 on December 17, 2009, 09:10:07 AM
I use a magnet to hold stuff on the computer screen. Pretty rainbows and such...
Hello Mike,
This time the screen is stable and no problems with jumping below the border..
When we had "Computer Lab" for my PreK to 6th grade elementary campus, the lab teacher came into my office with a student and mad as a wet hen.... ;>) She took pride in her job and equipment, and expected that of her students, too.
Ten years ago, the monitors were CRT screens, and a student had taken a magnet and moved it across the screen... Made quite a mess. The student and she thought it was damaged beyond repair... After dealing with the student's isolation at lunch and playground time, and putting him back in his home room class, I told her to degauss the monitor by repeated On and OFF cycles. I learned later, it took longer than I thought, but she fixed it....
Speaking of things that "stick on things"... The computer teacher had one standing MAJOR rule, and your posting reminded me to laugh...because I didn't realize that certain things stuck to plastic because they were "Magnetic".... Her verbal reminder to each class, could be heard each week. It was:
"Other students use the same computer you do. While you are practicing your keyboarding skills here in the lab, DON'T PICK YOUR NOSE."
Bill
I saw this thread and remembered that a few years ago I bought a PMDC motor from Surpluscenter.com to build a welder out of. It's like 36 volts and 160 or 180 amps or something like that. As it turned out, I couldn't find anything that would match the spline on the shaft as it was evidently special made for the military or an aircraft. I even went to a machine shop to have a coupling made for it but none around here can do inside splines. Now I am getting an urge to try to do something with it. Since the shaft is tempered, I think I can make a keyway in a double belt pulley to match one or two of the splines. I feel a project coming on.
I believe he means that the coupling would need splines cut on it's inside to match the splines on the outside of the shaft.
Quote from: bschwartz on February 12, 2010, 07:37:10 AM
I believe he means that the coupling would need splines cut on it's inside to match the splines on the outside of the shaft.
That would be a cake walk but the solution is somewhat permanent. Machine a bushing that has a smooth borehole that is a friction fit to the OD of the externally splined generator shaft. The other side of the bushing should have whatever "normal" connection you wish to use, eg, splined smooth shaft with keyway. Press it on and weld it to the gen shaft. You could add a hole or two along thew length to expose the spines neneath and plug weld it also.
If you are dealing with a female splined input on your generator that is a much more serious challenge. I recently had to deal with such a situation myself. I had a nice compound would 36 volt, 12 HP, 2100 RPM DC motor which I needed to use as the starter motor for my wnid turbine proiject. It was a hydraulic pack out of a forklift originally. After getting no-joy from visiting local machine shops and not wanting to destroy an expensive Sesna made hydraulic pump for the splined shaft section I took on the project myself. What I did was to start with a piece of 1" OD cold rolled mild steel. First I turned a couple of inches off the end down to the OD necessary as the spline OD. This allowed perfect centering later. With the help of a vice and hand held angle grinder with 1/16" thick cutoff wheel I was able to machine the splines using a vice jaw as a straight guide for the cutoff disc. Tapping the shaft into the hardened female splined hole in the motor shaft with soft hammer blows as I went made marks that I was able to use to guide my grinding. Eventually I got the spines a perfect fit! The last part to slip in was turned to be a tight press fit with the help of my lathe. The final product is absolutely true within less than 5 thou radial runout and well within working tolerance for a V-belt pulley. Using the vice jaws as a guide I also made a keyway in the shaft. The whole job only took a couple of hours. Once done I ran a bead of 308 SS 1/16" stick weld around the exposed union right at the motor end plate. This job is veversible with a grinder but otherwise permanent and I am now the proud owner of a big DC motor that is actually 'useable'. :)
It would be nice to own a mill but I don't see this expensive machine tool in my future. I absolutely could not survive without my lathe however.
One more picture showing my handmade splined shaft.
Quote from: bschwartz on February 12, 2010, 07:37:10 AM
I believe he means that the coupling would need splines cut on it's inside to match the splines on the outside of the shaft.
That is correct, on the outside of the shaft
Quote from: rcavictim on February 12, 2010, 07:56:03 AM
Quote from: bschwartz on February 12, 2010, 07:37:10 AM
I believe he means that the coupling would need splines cut on it's inside to match the splines on the outside of the shaft.
That would be a cake walk but the solution is somewhat permanent. Machine a bushing that has a smooth borehole that is a friction fit to the OD of the externally splined generator shaft. The other side of the bushing should have whatever "normal" connection you wish to use, eg, splined smooth shaft with keyway. Press it on and weld it to the gen shaft. You could add a hole or two along thew length to expose the spines neneath and plug weld it also.
If I got this correct, are you talking about a browning type of bushing? I thought of that but I was concerned about the reduced surface area due to the splines. I haven't given up on welding either, but I want that as a last resort.
Quote from: rbodell on February 12, 2010, 08:46:19 AM
Quote from: rcavictim on February 12, 2010, 07:56:03 AM
Quote from: bschwartz on February 12, 2010, 07:37:10 AM
I believe he means that the coupling would need splines cut on it's inside to match the splines on the outside of the shaft.
That would be a cake walk but the solution is somewhat permanent. Machine a bushing that has a smooth borehole that is a friction fit to the OD of the externally splined generator shaft. The other side of the bushing should have whatever "normal" connection you wish to use, eg, splined smooth shaft with keyway. Press it on and weld it to the gen shaft. You could add a hole or two along thew length to expose the spines neneath and plug weld it also.
If I got this correct, are you talking about a browning type of bushing? I thought of that but I was concerned about the reduced surface area due to the splines. I haven't given up on welding either, but I want that as a last resort.
All that the thin outer surface area of the splines is needed to do is maintain centering of the outer added bushing. Your welding it to the splined shaft is what will carry the power torque. The only reason I would hesitate weding onto the splined shaft is if it creates difficulty replacing the bearing on that end of the generator. If that is not a problem then weld away. It isn't like you plan to use that stupid spline system. If you could use it, you'd be doing so now. If you weld, use 308 or 309 stainless rod.
I am not against splines per se. They are likely the best shaft coupling possible, but I refer to them as stupid when nowhere in industrial supplier inventories on the planet are mates available to fit them. They are certainly not DIY friendly.
By the way, I'm having trouble typing in this box as the last few lines keep jumping down under the bottom border even though I have extra blank spaces below this. Any ideas how to correct this distraction?
It''s good to be here,
Bill
I am having the same problem recently and figure it is the fault of a recent ill conceived version of Microsoft Updates. The most likely cure? Stop using garbage Microsoft software.
Quote from: rcavictim on February 12, 2010, 05:46:00 PM
By the way, I'm having trouble typing in this box as the last few lines keep jumping down under the bottom border even though I have extra blank spaces below this. Any ideas how to correct this distraction?
It''s good to be here,
Bill
I am having the same problem recently and figure it is the fault of a recent ill conceived version of Microsoft Updates. The most likely cure? Stop using garbage Microsoft software.
I had the same problem untill I dumped internet explorer 8 and went back to internet explorer 7. Now I have no problems at all.
Henry
All that the thin outer surface area of the splines is needed to do is maintain centering of the outer added bushing. Your welding it to the splined shaft is what will carry the power torque. The only reason I would hesitate weding onto the splined shaft is if it creates difficulty replacing the bearing on that end of the generator. If that is not a problem then weld away. It isn't like you plan to use that stupid spline system. If you could use it, you'd be doing so now. If you weld, use 308 or 309 stainless rod.
Thanks for that. maybe that is what I should do.
I was just thinking, what if I fill the splines with JB Weld. Do you think that would give enough friction to use a browning bushing?
I am not against splines per se. They are likely the best shaft coupling possible, but I refer to them as stupid when nowhere in industrial supplier inventories on the planet are mates available to fit them. They are certainly not DIY friendly.
[/quote]
Quote from: bschwartz on November 04, 2009, 07:48:27 PM
First numbers are in
frequency leg 1 load leg 1 voltage leg 2 load leg 2 voltage total load
61 0 W 121.2 V 0 W 121.3 V 0 W
60.3 890 W 118.1 V 0 W 120.2 V 890 W
59.9 1525 W 116.3 V 0 W 118.9 V 1525 W
58.8 1415 W 113.7 V 1650 W 114.9 V 3065 W
58.6 1765 W 116.8 V 1610 W 113.3 V 3375 W
Metro 6/1 on WVO (soybean) 4200 ft elevation, Georgia Generator 6.5k PMG
all readings from two kill-a-watts (the last readings had the Kill a watt on leg 1 flashing)
I don't think the engine will do much more without heavy smoking, but not bad for free fuel.
Amazing. I don't understand what keeps the regulation so good with variable loading, is it just overkill in the windings, or is there an AVR somewhere ?
Quote from: rbodell on February 12, 2010, 09:09:30 PM
All that the thin outer surface area of the splines is needed to do is maintain centering of the outer added bushing. Your welding it to the splined shaft is what will carry the power torque. The only reason I would hesitate weding onto the splined shaft is if it creates difficulty replacing the bearing on that end of the generator. If that is not a problem then weld away. It isn't like you plan to use that stupid spline system. If you could use it, you'd be doing so now. If you weld, use 308 or 309 stainless rod.
Thanks for that. maybe that is what I should do.
You're welcome.
I was just thinking, what if I fill the splines with JB Weld. Do you think that would give enough friction to use a browning bushing?
No.
I am not against splines per se. They are likely the best shaft coupling possible, but I refer to them as stupid when nowhere in industrial supplier inventories on the planet are mates available to fit them. They are certainly not DIY friendly.
[/quote]
Quote from: mike90045 on February 13, 2010, 11:36:58 AM
Quote from: bschwartz on November 04, 2009, 07:48:27 PM
First numbers are in
frequency leg 1 load leg 1 voltage leg 2 load leg 2 voltage total load
61 0 W 121.2 V 0 W 121.3 V 0 W
60.3 890 W 118.1 V 0 W 120.2 V 890 W
59.9 1525 W 116.3 V 0 W 118.9 V 1525 W
58.8 1415 W 113.7 V 1650 W 114.9 V 3065 W
58.6 1765 W 116.8 V 1610 W 113.3 V 3375 W
Metro 6/1 on WVO (soybean) 4200 ft elevation, Georgia Generator 6.5k PMG
all readings from two kill-a-watts (the last readings had the Kill a watt on leg 1 flashing)
I don't think the engine will do much more without heavy smoking, but not bad for free fuel.
Amazing. I don't understand what keeps the regulation so good with variable loading, is it just overkill in the windings, or is there an AVR somewhere ?
Combo of two things I think. One is probably good oversize wire in the machine to help limit droop. Second is the fact that he was only loading the head up to approximately half power. That is a good way to go IMO if you can afford to. Looks like a clear winner at 3.5 kW to me! Should be trouble free for a long time and also probably makes really clean AC too.
Try the Mozilla Firefox browser! I've been using it since Win 98, then Win XP, then on my Vista machine, and now on my Win7 laptop.
It's rock solid, and 'way more secure than Internet Explorer of any version. It's what I'm playin' with now.
Ron
Quote from: vdubnut62 on February 13, 2010, 08:41:48 PM
Try the Mozilla Firefox browser! I've been using it since Win 98, then Win XP, then on my Vista machine, and now on my Win7 laptop.
It's rock solid, and 'way more secure than Internet Explorer of any version. It's what I'm playin' with now.
Ron
I use Firefox and Safari. Until XP came along, I was even considering another operating system. Never did Use Outlook Express. Too much trouble setting it up and it downloads stuff you don't want in your computer before you even know what it is. I finally settled on Gmail for email because of it's spam filter. I don't even notice the adds the way it is set up.