An elder couple gave me an 1989 Ford F-150. It's a long bed, two wheel drive with the 300 six and 5 speed. The truck had 68,000 original miles. The engine and all the fluids were kept up when they used it. The front tank was only used and I was told the rear tank has not been used in years. Well I decided to remove the filler cap and the odor took over the whole area. You could smell it over a 100 feet away. :-\ I took a scope and I never gas so bad. It looked like brown stain with chocolate chips in it. The smell was so bad that I had to wear a carbon filtered mask while removing the complete fuel system from the selector valve back. Did anyone else run into a situation like this?
I had that model beast for many years. I would cycle pulling from each tank every time I fueled up. Never had the issue you described, but suspect something happened that prevented the bad tank from getting used (switch or valve)and things deteriorated badly from there. It was a great truck in the day.
Yes, been there several times. As I remember when the switch or valve goes bad in Fords of that era it defaults to the front tank. There is a solvent that works pretty good to clean out the old fuel varnish but it has been too long,, I think MEK??, maybe Naptha??
Quote from: sailawayrb on July 21, 2020, 06:21:16 PM
I had that model beast for many years. I would cycle pulling from each tank every time I fueled up. Never had the issue you described, but suspect something happened that prevented the bad tank from getting used (switch or valve)and things deteriorated badly from there. It was a great truck in the day.
They were a great truck in the day.
I think the issue started by the rear fuel pump going out. The switching valve on the fuel reservoir is operated by in the tank fuel pumps. What ever tank is selected by the switch in the cab the pump in the selected tank pressurizes the diaphragm in the selector valve and routes the fuel to the high pressure pump. When the rear pump gave out the couple drove it for years with the unused fuel in the tank. I just pick up a new tank, tank vent valve, complete pump and fuel sending unit assembly and single tank fuel reservoir. I decided to delete one tank. The mid tank started to show signs of rusting inside so I decided to get rid of it. I do like the room around the driveshaft :) If I need to install new u-joints it will be much simpler. But, what I am thinking is installing a plastic mid tank for diesel to run the RV generator. I think the rear tank is 17 gallons and that's fine for my needs. The fuel switching valve assembly was priced at almost $400.00. The single tank reservoir is only $56.00 delivered. Cost of all parts to get the truck running was under $300.00. The price to replace everything would of been approx $900.00.
Quote from: playdiesel on July 21, 2020, 06:55:23 PM
Yes, been there several times. As I remember when the switch or valve goes bad in Fords of that era it defaults to the front tank. There is a solvent that works pretty good to clean out the old fuel varnish but it has been too long,, I think MEK??, maybe Naptha??
Yes the dual tank setup is known to have problems if tanks are not switched regularly. The tanks and pumps were to far gone to save. The best thing is complete replacement.
I'm curious about just not gluing the cap on the bad tank?
Hi LowGear, just finished taking off that was bad and than replace the rear tank with a new one. If everything work out good with the truck I am thinking of buying a mid mount plastic tank for the diesel RV genset. The truck should be ready to test run tomorrow. Hoping for the best.
Henry W
The tank and pump assembly is in! Waiting for the new fuel reservoir to arrive tomorrow.
Henry
I can almost feel your excitement.
But my question was to the general population as the bad tank syndrome doesn't seem to be yours alone. Why not just close the bad tank off and watch the gas gauge a bit more respectively?.
Having those usable two tanks allowed for greatly extended driving range which was highly desirable when doing cross country trips, etc. Plus, it was always cool to see your fuel gauge approaching Empty, just flip the tank selector switch and watch the fuel gauge then go to Full...
Got it running. It ran very rough for about 5 minutes and than it smoothed out and ran like it should. I do have an issue and hoping I could get some heap to figure out what's wrong. The engine starts up and runs fine when it's cold. When it's at operating temperature and it's turned off than you try to start it up the engine just cranks over and will not fire. When it sits for about 30 minutes it starts up fine. Any ideas, what could be wrong?
Henry W
Coil or condenser?
Air / vapor lock in the fuel line?
Dirty fuel injection system? Check/clean plugs?
LowGear and sailawayrb, thanks for the input. I appreciate the time that both of you spent with diagnostics. Did some tests and found that the voltage was fluctuating badly. It turns out it was a loose ground on the frame.
Just dropped the oil and filter. Where the filter screws on to the block the casting has no discoloration or sludge. This engine was taken care of. Soon as the rain stops the oil change will be completed.
Henry W
Do you use the copper infused grease on larger electrical connections to slow corrosion?
Thanks! I did not think of such grease. Need to pick some up.
I was led on to another thing that works very well on 12V connections like that ground strap, copper never sieze. I have been using it now for close to 10 years on battery terminals, grounds etc, ended all issues on my stuff ;D
I think we need to start a new section for posting tips. Important stuff like this gets lost too easily.
Henry
The truck will be receiving a major tuneup this morning. Will checking for codes 1st before I start.
I think the coolant temperature sensor is bad. When cold the engine runs rough. Once warmed up it runs much better. Went to Napa and purchased good quality plug wires, cap rotor, temperature sending unit, temp sensor, pvc valve, OEM plugs. Air filter and PCs filter. I was surprised everything was in stock.
The truck still runs rough and hesitates when accelerating. It's better but some part still needs replacement. Tomorrow I will be looking for an Innova 3145 Ford OBD1 code reader for 1981-1995 ford vehicles.
https://www.innova.com/product/detail/3145/Digital-Ford-Code-Reader-1981-1995
Hope to locate the problem soon.
Henry
Often auto parts stores have a reader you can borrow in the parking lot, to see what parts you need to buy from them !!
None of the auto parts stores have an OBD1 reader. I guess no one wants old trucks ::)
But everything is fine. The truck runs great.
I'll post mor tomorrow on what I went threw. Thanks for the support everyone.
Henry
https://www.amazon.com/slp/obd1-scanner/5bkvna52tdhk6yj
I don't know if it will allow a Fault Erase
A cliffhanger. I love it.
How did Fabulous Ford make it through the annal Autoparts maze and return to the old glory that we all remember from our days gone by. My Beauford (beautiful ford) ran the gamut of craigslist parts wanted and even tried to throw a prospective buyer out by popping the door open in the middle of a test drive. What a truck! The last time I saw her she was toeing a piece of crap boat through downtown Kona with all the pride any Ferrari has ever given in a poor little rich boys contest. What a gal!
So stay tuned to this channel at this same time to find out how FF overcame the last challenge of this seasons programs.
Quote from: mike90045 on July 27, 2020, 11:57:16 PM
https://www.amazon.com/slp/obd1-scanner/5bkvna52tdhk6yj
I don't know if it will allow a Fault Erase
I don't know, but it beats pinning and counting number of flashes. A good thing the code faults can be stared in memory.
It's been quite a project. Just got the bed back on this morning. Took about 20 minutes.
Took it out for a test ride and I think it has one bad injector. This means the top part of the intake manifold needs to be removed.
Here is the list of everything replaced:
19 gallon rear fuel tank
Complete fuel pump assembly
Tank vent valve
Fuel reservoir
Fuel filter
Tank fill neck
O2 sensor
Throttle position sensor
EGR position solenoid
Temperature sensor
Temperature sending unit
Distributor cap
Rotor
Plug wires
Spark plugs
Thermostat
PVC filter
Air filter
Oil filter
10-30 oil
Coolant
Battery
Negative & Positive cables
I read that a bad carbon canister could cause issues. It looks like a mouse chewed the top vent off. ::)
I tested the throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, EGR position solenoid, temperature sensor and temperature sending unit. I was surprised that they were all bad. But they are original parts.
So I still have stuff to do.
I'll be taking a break from doing more. It's been too hot and I cooked myself this afternoon.
Henry
Yeah, take your time and pace yourself. Sounds like you are well on your way to goal post. Probably should change differential and tranny fluids too. And have fun!
Rear axle and transmission gear oil is next. It's getting there. I believe the truck needs to be driven at least fifty miles for the ECU to recalibrate.
Henry W
Working on this truck I learned much. The ECM is crude and OBD1 codes that come up could represent more than one part to diagnose to see which one could be bad. Today's OBD2 systems On most vehicles are more precise in carrying out diagnostics.
The truck still has some issues. Stalls when first started, rough idle and surging at times, at times it seems like cylinder miss firing. Hesitation when driving and check engine light comes on at times.
I started thinking that it could be a vacuum leak. Started checking lines and diaphragms. What I found is there are switching vacuum valves called TAD, TAB and EVR solenoids. These solenoids operate the air pump and EGR valve at certain loads and temperatures. The TAD solenoid is not allowing a vacuum to build. With this leak all three solenoids are not able to function properly. With this truck the proper operation of the EGR is essential to help cool Combustion temperatures which reduces detonation. The air pump helps injecting air in the catalytic converter to aid in a better burn which carbon is reduced to help prevent plugged Cats.
One test I did was plug the vacuum line that operates the three solenoids. In turn most of the drivability issues disappeared. But codes were were being generated. I will start with replacing the TAD solenoid. Another thing I noticed is the EGR is sticking some at certain times so it will be replaced.
Henry W
Quote from: mike90045 on July 27, 2020, 11:57:16 PM
https://www.amazon.com/slp/obd1-scanner/5bkvna52tdhk6yj
I don't know if it will allow a Fault Erase
It's been some day, I finally got the Innova 3145 OBD1 code reader for Ford vehicle's and it is worth the price.
The code reader does do fault erase! That was the first thing I did because there were so many fault codes stored before I replaced the parts mentioned in the previous post. This code reader makes diagnostics easy. It will run the engine at different speeds and and let you check the timing at certain RPM's while your using the timing light. It tests Cylinder Balance by dropping out one injector at a time. It tests the distributor Ignition Module, Knock Sensor, EGR Valve operation and more....
Well, here are the fault codes that were found:
Fault 33 / test condition, running / EGR valve fault / not opening
EGR diaphragm leaks. Needs to be replaced.
I started to take the EGR valve off, and even after soaking the bolts in PB Blaster one broke in the manifold :-X. So, I had to take off the upper part of the intake manifold. ::) I have the bolt soaking overnight in PB Blaster so we'll see. I'm open for suggestions :).
While I have the upper half off I think I'll replace all the injector's and install a new pressure regulator.
Fault 15 / test condition, continuous memory / Power Interruption to computer memory or EEC (PCM) Keep Alice Memory (KAM) test failed.
Keep Alive Memory, Failed, Most likely cause is when the battery was disconnected. Will check again when everything is finished. If it still comes up I'll do a test. check for B+ at ECU pins 1 and 40 or 60, if thats OK there's a ECU problem and than the ECU might have to be replaced.
Code 11 / test condition, Key On, Engine Off / System OK.
With the Key On Engine Off the system passed.
That's all for now,
Henry W
Well, the engine is getting a fuel and ignition make over.
The ECU is bad, 4 injectors are leaking. I took some more time off and the truck be getting the fuel and ignition system changed. For now it's going to be carbed, then switched over to Throttle Body Electronic Fuel Injection by early next year. It will still have the emission stuff that's required in North Carolina.
The ignition system will be A Dura Spark II distributor triggering a MSD 6AL Ignition control Box
https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_boxes/street/parts/6425 For now a Dura Spark II will be mechanical and vacuum operated. It will be sent to someone I know to set up the advance properly so I can run 87 octane gas without having to worry about detonation. Once I get the Throttle Body EFI
( https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/sniper_2300_2bbl/sniper_2300/parts/550-851 ) the carb will be taken off and put away. The distributor mechanical advance will be locked and vacuum advance will be disabled so the EFI fuel injection can control the timing.
The intake manifold looks like it will come from Australia. https://www.aussiespeedshop.com/product/ford-240-300-4-9l-big-6-aussiespeed-4-barrel-manifold-as0524/ The Aussie's have been on top when building performance stuff for inline sixes for decades.
The carburetor will be an Autolite 2100 with 1.08 or 1.14 venturi's. I'm not sure witch size I'm will go for at this time. The Autolite 2100 2 barrel carb was way ahead in its time for a carb. Here is a brief summary about them:
Autolite 2100 carburetors were made from 1953–1973. They are a synchronous two venturi (barrel) design, meaning both venturii operate together. There are eight different sizes ranging from 190 cfm to 424 cfm. They are available with manual, electric, or automatic hot-air chokes. They incorporate a feature called Annular Fuel Discharge, which greatly reduces the likely-hood of hesitation and flat spots under acceleration. They use the standard Holley bolt pattern (same as Holley two barrels).
Size is determined by the diameter of the venturii. This can be found cast into the float chamber side. It will be a number in a circle, with the number being the venturi size in inches.
0.098 - 190 cfm, 1.01 - 240 cfm, 1.02 - 245 cfm, 1.08 - 287 cfm, 1.14 - 300 cfm, 1.21 - 351 cfm, 1.23 - 356 cfm, 1.33 - 424 cfm
A stock ford 300 six engine will only draw so much CFM and an Autolite carb larger than 300 CFM will be over carbing the engine.
The Aussie manifold has long runners and they help with low end torque. It's the longest runners I could find for what I'm doing.
So far I purchased:
*Offenhauser C intake manifold.
The Aussie manifold would not clear the AC evap coil box so I went with the brand that has a decent following from others that have done exactly what I'm doing.
*MSD 6AL ignition control.
Rev limiter will be set at 3800. Plugs will be re-gapped to 0.50 - 0.55
*Duraspark II distributor.
It will replace the TFI unit that's in the truck.
*Holley Sniper II 2300 Throttle Body EFI.
Seems like a very simple system. Has only four cables to hook up. The EFI ECU is smaller than a cell phone and very easy to program. The EFI has a vacuum circuit to operate the vacuum advance on the Duraspark II distributor. For now this will be used until I'm ready to lock the distributors mech and vac advance and allow the EFI control the timing.
I've read the this EFI setup can be calibrated to run E85 fuel if needed. I hope I would never have to run the stuff.
I'm hoping to achieve 18mpg highway with today's gas.
Today I just completed installing the Duraspark II distributor and the MSD 6AL ignition control box. I started cutting the engine wire harness open to remove all unnecessary wires. Tomorrow, it's rewrapping the harness and put it back in place.
I have been greatly enjoying this saga down memory lane...nicely done!
It is a project but that had some setbacks but I am making good progress. Hopefully it will be running sometime in October.
Thanks for the moral support.
It took longer than expected to finish the wiring harness. But it's completed.
Next step is installing high grade studs in the head to fasten the intake and exhaust manifolds. I believe ARP makes studs that will be more than adequate for the task. The original fasteners are Grade 5, 3/8-16 bolts. I was lucky getting all of them out without breaking some. :) I will not consider re-using the original fasteners. I don't want any headaches if I need to pull the manifolds off in the future.
I hope to make lots of progress in the next two weeks.
Back to work on the F150, spiral wound spark plugs, ignition coil, manifold gasket and adapter cord for mating the MSD ignition box to the Duraspark II distributor have been ordered.
Hopefully I'm able to install the manifold studs in the cylinder head tomorrow.
Installed the intake/exhaust manifolds yesterday. Next to do is the throttle body. I might have it running before Christmas :)
It's been a while since I posted. I forgot about this topic.
The truck has been running since the first week in July. I'm working on a tuning issue. I believe it's the O2 sensor location. The O2 sensor will be moved closer to bank 1 exhaust manifold. I hoping this will correct run issues when full throttle is given. From what I read, the 02 sensor could be scavenging exhaust from bank 2. And too much heat loss for the sensor to operate properly.
On a positive note, the truck is averaging 15 to 17.5 mpg. That is better than Ford published 31 years ago.
Here is a picture of the progress.
(Must be logged in to view.)
Just completed the tuning of the engine. It's running fine the intake manifold needed to be tuned to prevent reversion through theTBI. A tapered restrictor Carb / TBI adapter was used.
The engine has very good throttle response. Torque is great. Combined City / Highway driving the truck managed 18.38 MPG.
Now it's time to get back to the EB300 powered genset.
Thanks for the write up on the truck, I just forwarded this thread to my BIL who's just getting into these trucks. I wonder if the components you used are CARB complaint.
Hi Tom,
Unfortunately the parts are not CARB compliant.