I'm collecting pieces for a direct drive build with my Z482. I've got a 6.5kW head and the Hayes 930135 generator drive but I need the engine backplate to match. It looks like my Z482 was originally intended for a belt drive application and only has a little back plate just big enough to mount the starter.
Can anyone help me out with the Kubota part number for the standard bell housing size back plate (or maybe even the actual backplate itself?)
Thanks,
John
Specifically what I'm looking for is the engine back plate that fits an SAE#5 bell housing. I'm still looking online but everything I can find references parts wrt machinery, not just the engine...
But not the SAE5 "flywheel housing". Henry did the same setup a few years ago, the picture is here: http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=1283.msg15097#msg15097
I have a z482 but am not up to speed on the different ways they can be configured. HNEW knows all about them.
http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=1283.0
Still looking for this. I should point out that the Kubota web site on-line illustrated parts catalog only works in the USA (I just get a message that says "Access in only US market") ???
As near as I can determine there are three factory Kubota engine plates for the Z482. The first is the SAE5 flywheel housing. Don't want that. The second is for a belt drive application and is just big enough to hang the starter on. I've got that, don't want it. The third is the engine plate that sticks out past the flywheel all the way around to bolt a bell housing on to. THAT is what I'm looking for.
Help!
i know i have written more than a couple times on this subject
here goes again
if you can't find a suitable housing, you can certainly do this
take off the flywheel
remove the steel plate that would be sandwiched between the block and the bellhousing
use that plate to make up another, make it out of 3/8" plate, it can be laser cut or it can be cut
out with a less expensive process... or waterjet.... even with a torch if carefully done
use the hole to line up to drill the newly cutout plate
then find some DOM tubing, something with the id about the size of the
bolts used to install the bellhousing
cut out lengths of this DOM to be long enough to provide enough spacing
for the flywheel
also bore or cut a hole large enough for a shaft of suitable sizing for a pto
shaft, plus about a 1/4" so it will be a bit sloppy
then assemble using the DOM tubes as standoffs, and torque it all up
you can then do just enough welding to put all together, at least weld the DOM to the
outer cutout plate. remove and finish welding, i would suggest a MIG or TIG
to keep warpage to a minimum.... if you weld it while all torqued up
and without the flywheel in the way, you can be assured it will not warp
enough to be an issue.
then it is a matter of making up the flexplate drive adpt and a PTO stubshaft
slip it all through, and slide on a flange mount bearing, and dia indicate
the shaft and brg into true alignment... then bore two small holes for dowels
and when doweled into place, bore, thread and install the brg.
you now have a built up plate style housing with a pto shaft that will be as
strong and as true running as anything else you can buy, for a lot less money.
now if you want to go direct drive, it is simply a matter of drilling the cutout plate,
drilling and tapping to fit your genhead, dialing it into true, tack weld, and finish welding
after you double check alignment.
remember a lot of lab test engines, locomotive engines and a plethora of other
pieces of equipment have for decades been built up from welded plates, standoffs,
spacers, gussets and whatever else is needed to accomplish the end needed.
the only reason castings beat out welded construction is casting are a ton
cheaper to produce that built up housing, especially for mass produced parts
for one off and prototype work a built up welded plate design has much to offer
in my opinion.
fwiw
bob g
ps. if all you need now is a heavier intermediate plate, take your plate or bellhousing
to a steel shop and have one made off yours as a pattern from whatever thickness material you want... probably can get it cheaper done that way than an oem part? plasma cutting is not that expensive these days.
I found it!!! Kubota 16867-04620 PLATE, REAR END
I am the king of Google and that was still unbelievably hard to find. Thank you gciron.com for your online parts database that allows you to search by engine instead of by equipment model AND with pictures, too. It seems like that engine with the full backplate must not be very common pairing anymore?
I'll report back when I get it here.
John
Should be pretty easy to find a diect drive bellhousing....its basically the smallest of the super minis up to a d902....look for the diesel driven light towers for the parts....just trying to help...
Quote from: pressurepro on March 24, 2015, 02:59:59 PM
Should be pretty easy to find a diect drive bellhousing....its basically the smallest of the super minis up to a d902....look for the diesel driven light towers for the parts....just trying to help...
I already have the bellhousing, it's the proper rear engine plate I was looking for. There are several variations and
most Kubota parts sites are organized by equipment (backhoes, tractors, etc.) instead of engines so first you have to figure out what machines used the Z482 engine (surprisingly few!). Once I found a web site that could search parts by engine model (gciron.com (http://www.gcironparts.com/GCIronPartsSelection.asp?ManufacturerName=Kubota%20Engine)) I tracked it down right away.
John
The engine plate arrived the other day and it is indeed the correct one. I also realized in the nick of time that I needed a new oil pan to replace the 5.5 liter extended-run pan with a standard-sized unit as the bigger one sticks out under the flywheel. Now that both those items are in hand the next step is to get everything bolted together and post some pictures!
If anyone here is contemplating a Z482 belt drive setup they're welcome to the big oil pan and starter mounting plate for the cost of the postage.
John
Finally got around to starting work on the Z482. First step was replacing the extended-run oil pan with the standard version.
Next up was installing the new engine back plate and the Hayes generator drive parts.
John
To make it easier to put things together I bolted the aluminum frame to a 3 foot high shop cart. For some reason this also makes it very difficult to get a good picture. I've taken several as things progressed but the 'subject' always seems to get lost in my cluttered shop. This time I stood on a chair to get a better perspective... :D
The gen head is mated (a Northern Tool relabeled Mecc-Alte 6kW) along with a few other bits and pieces like the fuel filter and shutdown solenoid. The cooling system is also mounted and now I'm waiting on some hoses to plumb it in. I spent an hour going through the Gates hose catalog to reverse-select some molded hoses that can be cut up to align with all the fittings. It didn't help that the fittings are all for 1" hose except the water pump inlet which is 7/8" but I think I've got it sorted.
Control panel and metering. Empty box so far, still have to wire everything.
Just set it on top of the frame to see what it will look like.
Hi Arctic,
How is the project progressing?
I am watching with keen interest. I just acquired a Z482 engine.
Mine came with a stub shaft which enables me to belt drive my gen head, so I intend to mount the head beside the engine on a fabricated base.
These are lovely little units. I have yet to hear one run but I suspect with good exhaust silencing they would not make much noise.
One good thing about these is that they have IDI cylinder heads enabling us to run some alternate fuels.
cheers,
veggie
If your going to run one of these engines using pulleys I would recommend running between 2800-3000 rpm. Peak torque curve is around 2600 and it is best to be past the peak a couple hundred rpm on those engines.
This would be a great engine for a belt drive setup! My original plan for this one was to build a 300A battery charger with a Balmar controller and a pair of 150A Zena alternators (same as the single Zena I have on the Listeroid). Fortunately (or unfortunately?) my "off-grid" system turned into a "grid-backup" system and the second charger was not needed. After tripping over this engine for two years I decided to just build a direct-drive genset and sell it off as a standby package. I try to do a little bit of work on it every day so hoping to have it done here in a couple of weeks.
Wired up the control panel and mounted it today. I always talk about doing a thorough testing BEFORE I ty-wrap everything but (as usual) I wanted to make it look pretty more than I wanted to double-check everything. Nothing too complicated in there so I'm pretty sure it will all work as designed. If not, ty-wraps are easy enough to cut off.
AC
Looking good. ;D
Getting closer. Engine wiring and exhaust system are done, save for a 1-1/2" muffler clamp that no one in town seems to have.
Hoses and AC breaker stuff should be here this week but at the rate I'm going (very slowly) I won't have first smoke until the end of the month!
Does anyone have any thoughts on what size of battery to use? I was going to use a Cat 8C-3636 but apparently they are only available in the USA. Lots of local choices here with batteries for ATVs and such but not sure now on how small I can go. Most of the locally available batteries in this size are Yuasa.
AC
I found the answer to my own question about batteries. Apparently the Yuasa web site has a battery selection chart that includes "Japanese Tractor/Generator" and Kubota T1600 in their vehicle list. The T1600 mower uses a Z482 so their recommended 35aH battery 40B19L(S) should be the way to go.
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery.php?bID=I4&vID=5060 (http://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery.php?bID=I4&vID=5060)
Well, I finally got around to installing the last few parts and doing the testing. The simulated run testing of the automatic controls went pretty good but I found out the hard way that you can NOT share a wire between the two CTs feeding the volt/amp meters. The meters both flashed on for a second and then went away, never to return. I ordered two more meters on eBay and replaced the 6-conductor metering cable with a 7 (actually 8 ) conductor cable like I should have used in the first place (but didn't have handy when I wanted to wire up the meters :-\).
I had been planning to route the injector return line back into the fuel filter but decided not to do that at the last minute. Good call there as it took lots of priming to get all the air out and the return line is a full-flow deal, not "just a few drips once in a while" like on the Listeroid.
I didn't use a run/idle solenoid so the throttle is held open with a spring. The governor works well, only +/- 1 Hz from 0 to 66% load.
Fuel burn at 2/3 load was almost exactly 2 litres per hour. I imagine this might improve slightly as the engine breaks in but it seems like this is in the right ballpark for this load.
Arctic,
That's a beautiful unit you built.
Nice job !
Thanks for the video.
What rubber isolators did you use under the engine mounts ?
Did you use isolators under the generator also ? Hard to tell in the video but it looks like the alternator is solid mounted.
Veggie
I got the isolators through Amazon http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00MM01140 (http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00MM01140)
There's four under the engine and one more under the genhead right at the back.
Any progress on yours yet? I had to learn a ton about these engines to build this one and ended up sourcing parts from all over. If you need any info I'd be happy to help.
Cheers
John
Arctic,
I'm still in the design phase.
I sometimes stay in this phase for too long...overthinking things ???
Thanks for the link. I ordered some of those isolators for my unit.
veggie
Quote from: veggie on September 21, 2015, 01:09:24 PM
Arctic,
I'm still in the design phase.
I sometimes stay in this phase for too long...overthinking things ???
Thanks for the link. I ordered some of those isolators for my unit.
veggie
Yeah, I know what that's like. This one was in the "design phase" for 4 years
AFTER I decided not build it as a battery charger...