Sorry if this is a stupid question. Is this where you drain the coolant from the engine? I hope this link works.
//http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/dmarkh/media/DSC03600-a_zps3d0e6bd6.jpg.html?sort=3&o=9
Thanks
Mark
Looks like it could be. On mine, it comes out a port on the flywheel side of the cylinder at the bottom near where it joins with the head. What comes out when you open the valve?
Haven't opened it yet. Next weekend I'm taking it down for fluid change. Never done it before. Just acquired this thing.
Mark
When I open the valve nothing comes out. There is still coolant in it and the radiator cap is off. What is this valve for?
Mark
Try poking a wire or small screw driver in the opening of the valve to make sure some critter (like a dirt dauber) hasn't plugged up the outlet...
Or rust at the bottom of the cylinder clogging the port. You can also try a shot of compressed air into that port with the radiator cap off of course...
Yep, I'd say rust. This looks pretty nasty. I know there was never anything but distilled water and antifreeze in this thing. I remember reading somewhere how to clean this up. Any pointers?
http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/dmarkh/media/DSC03634_zps4c00e092.jpg.html
Mark
OK, I see a muriatic acid / water (1:10) solution is commonly used for such. Also straight vinegar? I have several days before I'll be putting this back together so I think I'll try the vinegar first. Let it sit in there 2 or 3 days and see what happens? Should I finish by flushing with something to neutralize the acid?
Thanks
it generally doesn't take much to remove the drain cock from the block,
remove it, clean it, and if it still won't drain, just run a wire up into the block hole
and wriggle it around, it will open up and then drain out.
i have had new 195 engine's out of the crate that would not drain because of rust and dirt clogging the drain cock.
as for muriatic acid, yes that will work, just be sure to flush it well with lots of water, and you should be fine.
if you are concerned mix up a few tablespoons of baking soda into a quart of water and add that to the system, run it up to temp and drain it again... followed by more flushing with water.
bob g
Quote from: mobile_bob on July 20, 2014, 06:55:13 PM
it generally doesn't take much to remove the drain cock from the block,
remove it, clean it, and if it still won't drain, just run a wire up into the block hole
and wriggle it around, it will open up and then drain out.
i have had new 195 engine's out of the crate that would not drain because of rust and dirt clogging the drain cock.
as for muriatic acid, yes that will work, just be sure to flush it well with lots of water, and you should be fine.
if you are concerned mix up a few tablespoons of baking soda into a quart of water and add that to the system, run it up to temp and drain it again... followed by more flushing with water.
bob g
I got the petcock unclogged by running a sharp pointed object into it. I wonder how long I should give the vinegar to work. It's been peculating all day yesterday and all night. It's still bubbling away.
http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/dmarkh/media/DSC03636_zpsb7324586.jpg.html
After day one It looks a little better. I refreshed the vinegar this morning. Check it again tomorrow.
Mark
vinegar is used by the cast iron cookware community, to de-rust pans. It will also loosen and remove all sorts of gunk, which may have to be power flushed out, it may not just drain out.
Quote from: mike90045 on July 21, 2014, 08:13:03 AM
vinegar is used by the cast iron cookware community, to de-rust pans. It will also loosen and remove all sorts of gunk, which may have to be power flushed out, it may not just drain out.
I was actually considering tarping up everything and getting the pressure washer out. Is 2 days long enough time for the vinegar to do it's job?
Thanks
Mark
I did take the pressure washer to mine after I removed the head- the bottom coolant passages were all clogged with mud/crud/rust etc. Terribly nasty!
There are pics around the forum somewhere, try searching Xing Dong.
Ron.
Quote from: vdubnut62 on July 21, 2014, 08:08:22 PM
I did take the pressure washer to mine after I removed the head- the bottom coolant passages were all clogged with mud/crud/rust etc. Terribly nasty!
There are pics around the forum somewhere, try searching Xing Dong.
Ron.
I found the pics you refer to at: http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=264.msg4280#msg4280
Ah crap, I wish I hadn't seen those. Looking at the first pic, it looks clean compared to mine. So I can only imagine what I would find if I took the head off. I had no intention of doing that. Not sure I feel comfortable enough to do that. Damn. I'll have to think about that one?
Thanks vdubnut62
Mark
It is pretty straight forward injector line, valve cover, and 4 nuts presto, it's. off.
Gaskets to go will have your gasket. Much better quality than OEM too!
Ron.
Quote from: vdubnut62 on July 25, 2014, 01:53:29 PM
It is pretty straight forward injector line, valve cover, and 4 nuts presto, it's. off.
Gaskets to go will have your gasket. Much better quality than OEM too!
Ron.
Things always come apart easy. Remember what the gasket cost ya? Did ya just RTV the valve cover? I don't even have a torque wrench. I can borrow one I guess. Hummmm!!! I guess while it's down, I should do this. I guess I should get the gaskets first?
Thanks Ron.
I think??
Mark
don't use rtv! bits of it can make its way through the oil system, and clog off things like the crank cross drilling.
it is pretty easy to cut/hammer out a valve cover gskt.
the gskts to go guy is great!
bob g