I just picked up a Kubota EL300-E(~3hp). The motor was used on a construction sign to keep the batteries charged up. It has a Lestek 9150 Alternator belted to it.
I live in a housetruck which has a solar panel, 12v bank, and 1500W inverter. My plan is to use the Kubota mainly to power inverter, to run my WVO filtration system. This system consists of a 1/3 hp motor, and the largest hot water heater element the Kubota will support. I would also like to use the Kubota to charge the batteries when there is no sun.. however our electricity usage when not filtering WVO is very low.
I'm just getting into all of this, so feel free to point out all my errors ;D
Some questions:
Alternator:
I'm having a hard time finding any information about the Lestek alternator, as the company closed in 2004. At the moment it's still on bracket. I'm not sure if it's internally or externally regulated. Anyone know some more information about this alternator? I'm pretty sure it'll need to be replaced, but i'm on a tight budget so if i could use it, it would be great. The model # is 9150 140amps. I'll open it up and have a look when I get the time. If i can't use the alternator, i'd like to at least use the bracket on the motor. What type of mount is it?
If I'm trying to keep it simple should I just use a 14.4V regulator and rely on solar to properly top off the batteries? Especially considering 95% of usage would be to run the inverter with a large load. We'd only use it to simply charge the batteries if it was an "emergency". Perhaps down the line I can add a three stage to also properly charge the battery bank. (when I do it would also be pretty cool to tie it into the trucks alternator)
I'm thinking 140-160amp alternator 14.4v regulator. Pulleys sized to output ~90-100Amps at the motors peak. I'm also debating to add a rheostat or variac to manually limit voltage. Do you think there will be a problem simply using the motor to limit current?
Any tips or comments are appreciated!
Quote from: JVD on March 03, 2013, 12:18:49 PM
...... Do you think there will be a problem simply using the motor to limit current?
None at all, till the day you step away for 5 minutes, that turns into 30 minutes, then it will boil the batteries,
let the air out of all the tires, and put sugar into the gas tank :o
Hello. No idea about the Alternator, but I would think it would be like most other alternators.
When I assembled my Kubota / DC generator I quickly found out it was easy to overload the Kubota, and there was no way I could pull more then say 120A from the alternator w/o seeing black exhaust discharge. I have an EB300 speced at 5HP cont., the EL300 being smaller would be even more of an issue. So, I think a major consideration here is how to limit the Amps to prevent overloading.
Selecting an undersized Alternator would work, but you indicate the alternator is 140A.
Under spinning the alternator could work, maybe that is what they are doing? (How large are the two pulleys?)
Using some type of Amp Limited in the Regulator (in effect a programmable chopper in addition to the Voltage regulator function) will work - and you can find external regulator such as the Balmar ARS-5 or Max-Charge and their 'Belt Load Manager' feature.
I am wondering given that this unit was designed to maintain battery charge perhaps it already has some method designed in. Have you been able to fire it up and see what voltage it regulates to, and perhaps see how it responds to a large load - say powering a space heater via your inverter? You might be able to use it as-is, or perhaps with a simple modification if the regulator voltage is set too low - ala if it is set for 13.2v 'Float' Voltage, adding in a couple of diodes to the voltage sensing would bring it up to 14.4vor so..
And I would say if you want to keep it simple, your idea of using it for Bulk and part of Acceptance Charge then letting the Solar Panels finish things up would work fine. When we run our DC generator we typical keep it going in until the Amps being accepted drop below 60a, then let the Solar Panels finish things up.
And have you considered using the cooling system as a heat source? Might be simple to set up a thermal siphon arrangement to your WVO processing tank.
Finally: If you ever want to Pimp-it-out, I have been working on an integrated regulator / throttle controller project for just this type of setup- you can read more here: http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=2941.0 (http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=2941.0) A key feature is actively managing the Amps being delivered as well as the voltage, thereby using all the engine capability at all points of operation.
Best of luck, I think I would 1st try to fire it up and see what it does. You might be very close to already having most, if not everything, you need for a simple setup.
-al-
Al,
Thanks for the reply.
I've fired it up, and I'm not getting anything out of the alternator. This didn't surprise me however, as the two pins on top of the alternator are empty. I was going to make a wire to the right pin to see if it's externally excited, and if it will then put out some power... But when i started reading about all this, I decided to ask a few questions first, as I don't want to fry anything (thinking that if there was an external regulator, and it's been taken off... firing it up without it may burn out the alternator or something else).
I suppose i'll bolt it all back down, add the wire, and test it that way.
I'd really like to avoid buying a new alternator and a $300 controller, so it would be nice if it works.
JVD
Hello. Well, ya - that sounds like something is missing. Seems likely that an external regulator was used, too bad it did not come with the unit.
I went to archive.org and there are several captures of the old Lestek company, you might look through them (takes a bit of work as some of the images are missing, but if you look at the links you might be able to find some info). Here is one example: http://web.archive.org/web/20040806120340/http://lestek.com/Alternators.htm (http://web.archive.org/web/20040806120340/http://lestek.com/Alternators.htm)
http://web.archive.org/web/20040413144358/http://poweralt.com/Installation.htm (http://web.archive.org/web/20040413144358/http://poweralt.com/Installation.htm)
http://web.archive.org/web/20040518204358/http://poweralt.com/Reg.&Alt%20trouble.htm (http://web.archive.org/web/20040518204358/http://poweralt.com/Reg.&Alt%20trouble.htm)
http://web.archive.org/web/20040517103751/http://poweralt.com/J18012V-Install.htm (http://web.archive.org/web/20040517103751/http://poweralt.com/J18012V-Install.htm)
and more here: http://web.archive.org/web/20040915000000*/http://www.lestek.com (http://web.archive.org/web/20040915000000*/http://www.lestek.com)
It seems that Lestek was taken over by Pentexx. http://www.penntexusa.com/dimensions.htm (http://www.penntexusa.com/dimensions.htm) There might be some old info on their web site as well.
Perhaps if you inspect the two posts you can determine if they are connected directly to the brushes (assuming this is a standard brushed alternator). It sounds like it is an external regulator- but is good to be careful!
Being you have no regulator, I still think a major issue will be how to limit the total amps produced to keep from overloading the engine. Perhaps look to see what diameter pulleys are currently being used, they may have set it up for less then MAX RPMs to keep the alternator down on the output curve. If so, then any standard external regulator would work I think (assuming you use it as described - bulk and let solar finish things up). But if not, then am thinking you would need some amp reducing feature on a regulator. I would NOT go with a simple resister, as I suspect things would change too much over the charging time and you risk harming the batteries...
Hope this give you some more ideas.
Best luck,
-al-
thanks for all the research... didn't even think about searching internet archives.
I have a LN 2500LC... Thinking about pulling it apart and attempting to use that regulator.
I was also considering using the waste heat to heat up the WVO. The motor is water cooled, but it seems to simply use thermosiphoning to circulate the coolant. I'm thinking about adding in a heat exchanger right into the top of the radiator.. using the overflow tank from a car with a fully pressurized coolant system. An exhaust heat exchanger will be a bit more difficult as the exhaust already points directly down below the motor about 5"... The motor will be mounted under my truck, so there's not a whole lot of room to add a exhaust heat exchanger.
Quote from: JVD on March 09, 2013, 10:29:48 AM
thanks for all the research... didn't even think about searching internet archives.
I have a LN 2500LC... Thinking about pulling it apart and attempting to use that regulator.
I was also considering using the waste heat to heat up the WVO. The motor is water cooled, but it seems to simply use thermosiphoning to circulate the coolant. I'm thinking about adding in a heat exchanger right into the top of the radiator.. using the overflow tank from a car with a fully pressurized coolant system. An exhaust heat exchanger will be a bit more difficult as the exhaust already points directly down below the motor about 5"... The motor will be mounted under my truck, so there's not a whole lot of room to add a exhaust heat exchanger.
If I remember correctly, the coolant drain valve on the bottom of the head will take a standard 1/2" MPT fitting. (Maybe it is 3/8", I tried it once jsut hand tightening to see if I could use it for my coolant tap, but have not hooked anything up yet.) Perhaps you could get a spacer machined up to sandwich between the existing air radiator on the top, and have a port out the side. -OR- I have also seen someone punch out what looks like a freeze plug higher in the head (next to the injector) and tap that hole for a 1/2" (3/8"?) MPT fitting.
In either case, you could remove the current belt driven fan, replace it with a 12v computer fan (it looks about the same size) connected to a higher temp therm-switch. Get real fancy and add a gate valve to the thermosyphon ckt to control the amount of heat taken form the engine, and allow the thermostat / computer fan to be the 'backup' in-case too little heat is extracted. Heck, if you are height limited you could just remote the radiator, make up a flat alumn plate to bolt to the to of the engine with some MPT fittings in it. Then make up a like plate for the bottom the radiator and remotely mount it. Again using a computer fan as needed.
I see no reason why you could not modify the LN 2500LC regulator to work - mostly will eb about modifying the brush posts to accept wires instead. But I still wonder about how the max Amps are being limited. . . My guess is they under spin the alternator, maybe at 1/2 its rated RPMs. What size drive and alternator pulley are currently installed? That might give some insight.
-al-
another great idea.. I'm looking into how to modify the radiator neck/cap. I'm away from the motor for another week still, so I can't tell you about the pulley sizes. I'll let you know as soon as I get back.
Do you know the differences between the EB300 and EL300?
Quote from: JVD on March 10, 2013, 06:18:37 AM
Do you know the differences between the EB300 and EL300?
My understanding is the EL300 is a lower HP version or the EB.. Maybe 4HP cont vs. 7?
I did fine this posted with the EL300 specs: http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=2339.0 (http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=2339.0)
Looks like they spin it slower: 2,000 RPMs max, where the EB300 runs up to 3,000 IIRC. I do not know if there are changes to the internal parts (ala the injector, etc), so it might be more then just a different governor stop setting.
-al-
The EL300 has no counter-ballance shafts so it is limited to 2000 RPM.
The EB300 come in 2 differant speed ratings. (2600 and 3000 RPM)
Some of the E-series engines do not have glowplugs, starter or alternator.
The most sought after E-series engines of the bunch are the EA300-NB1 and the EA330-E3-NB1. They come complete with Radiator, Starter, Glowplugs and Alternator. The speed rating is 3000 RPM.
The EA330-E3-NB1 has a larger bore and peak torque curve comes on at lower RPM's than the EA300-NB1. The EA-330 series can be set up to match any of the load ratings of any of the engines in the E series.
Henry
Thank you, I figured there was likely more difference then where a set screw was positioned ;)
Do you by chance know what the difference is between an EA300 and an EB300? When I purchased my Kubota (E-bay, ex tank-trailer engine) I was told it was an EB-300. Try and I might I can not locate any markings on the engine, nor any info on EA vs EB. . . .
-al-
There must be a serial number located on the block someplace. When facing the gearcase cover look at the right/front mounting foot. Sometimes the serial number is stamped on the edge of the foot. I will look at my engine when I get home. I will write some more about possible differances.
Henry
I did some checking and there should be a serial number on the right front part of the engine mount/foot when facing the gear case.
I found some interesting info that surprised me.
The camshafts are the same on the EL300, EA300 and EA330 engines. I would imagine the EB300 camshaft is also the same but I don't have a part # to prove that it is.
The engine blocks are the same on the EB300, EA300 and EA330 engines. I don't know if the EL300 engine block is the same.
The PTO stubshafts are the same on the EA300 and EA330. They are 1-7/16" in dia. The EB300 stubshafts are different. there are three different SAE styles they are only 24mm in dia.
The injector nozzle piece for the EA300 and EA330 are different. The springs and all other components on the injectors are the same for the EA300 and EA330 engines.
Fuel Injection pumps are the same for the EA300 and EA330. The EB300 Fuel Injection pump is different. I would imagine the EL300 Injector pump is different from the rest.
It looks like the main difference in the in the fuel system in all the E series engines is the calibration of the injector pumps and injectors.
I do know:
The fuel injection timing for the EL300 is 19 deg. Before Top Dead Center.
The fuel injection timing for the EA300 and EA300-N are 21 deg. Before Top Dead Center.
The fuel injection timing for the EA300-NB1 and EB300 are 23 deg. Before Top Dead Center.
The fuel injection timing for the EA330-E3-NB1 is 25.5 deg. Before Top Dead Center.
For now, this is all the info I have on these engines. I will post more when I find them.
Henry
Quote from: hwew on March 11, 2013, 02:15:31 PM
There must be a serial number located on the block someplace. When facing the gearcase cover look at the right/front mounting foot. Sometimes the serial number is stamped on the edge of the foot. I will look at my engine when I get home. I will write some more about possible differences.
Henry
Well, of course it was there. I will swear I had looked SOOO many times before, even when the engine was not assembled into our DC generator. But alas, it was there, looks like E??-980990 Thanks.
-al-
how many amps will I be able to draw with the EL300 (4hp)? around 100? I'm wondering if there'll be enough power to turn a motor and heat the oil.
Also I don't have any experience with natural convection. Will thermosiphoning be enough to move the coolant up to a drum full of WVO, and through a copper coil in the WVO? or would something like this require a pump?
Quote from: JVD on March 18, 2013, 12:19:48 PM
how many amps will I be able to draw with the EL300 (4hp)? around 100? I'm wondering if there'll be enough power to turn a motor and heat the oil.
I am just now fine tuning that on my system. I have an EB300 (6hp cont. at 3000rpms per spec sheet) and am targeting 1790w, or 124A when the charging voltage is at 14.4v I hope to soon have an EGT connected so I can perhaps fine tune this based on EGT, right now I base overloading on two things:
1) Presence of black smoke (exhaust water in my case)
2) Inability for motor to respond to slight changes in governor position.
The 'formula' I am using is:
Watts Allows = HP * 746 * 40%
I am assuming an overall system (Alternator, belts, etc) efficiency of 40%. I will be adjusting this % efficiency number as I learn more.
Based on the above, your 4hp motor comes to: 1200w. Depending on where you set your fixed voltage regulator, this translates to:
Amps = 1200/Vreg-Volts.
So if you set your Voltage Regulator to 14.4v, you would be able to support:
Amps = 1200 / 14.4 = 83 amps
Still thinking you can capture some heat directly from the motor. Maybe even run a 2" 'exhaust pipe' through the oil drum to get a bit more out of it???
Hope this helps.
-al-
take the muffler up in heating the wvo seems simpler than take heat from the cooling system .
Thanks for the math Al.
I tried to test the alternator by sending the current to either of the exposed posts up top... no luck. I'm going to pull it and look for a replacement. I'd like to get one the same frame size as the motor is already bracketed and belted.
I'm still working on some simple heat exchanger to heat the WVO. My ideas ideas are:
Coolant:
To modify the radiator cap so it has a fitting for a hose, and plug the overflow. Add a FPHE or a coil running though the WVO. Before the heat exchanger add a pressure release valve set at ~14lbs (what i assume the radiator cap is). I'm wondering if natural convection would circulate the coolant though the FPHE. The WVO will already be pumped to run the centrifuge. I'd like to use a FPHE rather than a coil in the WVO, because i don't want the copper sitting in the WVO for long periods of time.
Exhaust: Coil copper pipe around the muffler, or clamp a small radiator to the side of the muffler. Bolt of these don't seem to be very efficient. I'd like to avoid running the exhaust though the WVO directly as this seems dangerous to me.
The electric motor will use ~500w.. so with 1200w i can still get the oil to temperature electrically. I'm going to go ahead and put the system together this way and then work towards adding some heating systems.
Next time i pull the motor out i'll snap some photos
Quote from: JVD on March 22, 2013, 10:08:55 AM
Thanks for the math Al.
I tried to test the alternator by sending the current to either of the exposed posts up top... no luck. I'm going to pull it and look for a replacement. I'd like to get one the same frame size as the motor is already bracketed and belted.
I'm still working on some simple heat exchanger to heat the WVO. My ideas ideas are:
Coolant:
To modify the radiator cap so it has a fitting for a hose, and plug the overflow. Add a FPHE or a coil running though the WVO. Before the heat exchanger add a pressure release valve set at ~14lbs (what i assume the radiator cap is). I'm wondering if natural convection would circulate the coolant though the FPHE. The WVO will already be pumped to run the centrifuge. I'd like to use a FPHE rather than a coil in the WVO, because i don't want the copper sitting in the WVO for long periods of time.
Exhaust: Coil copper pipe around the muffler, or clamp a small radiator to the side of the muffler. Bolt of these don't seem to be very efficient. I'd like to avoid running the exhaust though the WVO directly as this seems dangerous to me.
The electric motor will use ~500w.. so with 1200w i can still get the oil to temperature electrically. I'm going to go ahead and put the system together this way and then work towards adding some heating systems.
Next time i pull the motor out i'll snap some photos
You know, if there are TWO exposed posts it is likely you need to ground one and send +12v to the other at the same time. (Or actually, much less then 12v.) IF you do indeed have two exposed posts you might try using an Ohm meter to see if they are connected (I think a field should give around 3-4 ohm reading), and no connect to the case. (So, should show open between either of hte posts and the case, and show a few ohms -like 3-4 between the two posts). If so, then it sounds like you have a floating field and just need to connect one side to gnd while the other gets power. Before tossing it you might try grounding one side and BREIFLY toughing the other side to +12 and see if you get any current out. But only do it for a very short time, as full field can quickly cause the alternator to put out tons of power...
And a wide idea: IF all you are really doing is driving a DC motor and a heating element, then I would say perhaps you do not need to be very precise on voltage regulation. Assuming you can find out where the field connections are, perhaps just using a large variable resister will be all you need to regulate things as well as adjust the load on the Kubota. But if you are also recharging a battery, using only a resister can be risky - if one gets side tracked and leaves it unattended for even a short time...
On the heat exchangers, I think there are other posts in here about doing exhaust exchangers. On the main water, again assuming you are going to only be using this while processing, then I would say: make a plate to replace the radiator enterally - you want to get as much heat as possibly into the processing tank, not dump any of into the air. Put a couple of fittings on it to pipe coolant in and out, run those pipes through your barrel perhaps with a small circulation pump. Place an expansion tank up high - if you keep the temps down low you might even be able to get away without a radiator cap, just keep the whole system unpressured. But I also know one can get remote expansion tanks with radiator caps on them as well... OR, make another plate to put on the bottom of the removed radiator. Replace the existing mechanical fan with a 12v computer one. Mount a 200o thermostat switch back on the motor and use that to control the fan. Then mount the radiator somewhere in the return path from you processing tank. That way you will not be sending much heat into the air, but if the engine does start to overheat the fan will come on and cool the engine down.
It seems a lot is dependent on how you are looking to use this, but it you truly are only going to run it while processing, and are not looking to recharge a battery, you could really make things simple...
-al-
....Or to really throw a (probably not too smart) idea out there.....
Could you remove the radiator, install a plate, and instead of using water as the engine coolant, use the WVO circulating directly through the engine? A small circulating pump to push the WVO through the engine into the processing tank, then the larger motor for the (I'm assuming) centrifuge?
That could REALLY pull all the available engine heat directly into your WVO.
I have the alt off, and am going to bring it over to an alternator guy. I hope to trade him my LN 2500 to get this one up and runnung.
I think ill start out simple as the motors main use will be wvo filtration, and when i stumble on the right parts ill add on some more intellegent alternator controlling.
I found 2 Cummins EGR coolers at the junkyard. I think people take them off to get more power.. so the .ew plan is to add one to the end of the exhaust and pump the veggie oil through it. The exhaust is the perfect size it just needs an adapter welded on.
Quote from: JVD on March 24, 2013, 03:29:54 PM
I found 2 Cummins EGR coolers at the junkyard. I think people take them off to get more power.. so the .ew plan is to add one to the end of the exhaust and pump the veggie oil through it. The exhaust is the perfect size it just needs an adapter welded on.
Huh - EGR coolers, nice find. Had no idea about them, looks like a great solution!
-al-
Got the alternator apart, cleaned up the connections, and it worked. It is internally regulated, and it is a one wire alternator. Good news it'll provide power to filter my veggie oil... however it's not so good for charging the batteries.
I found a Bosch 136A alternator at the dump, as well as a VW EGR cooler (much better design than the Ford EGR coolers). The Bosch alternator is externally regulated dual field alternator. To use a smart regulator I just connect one field to 12v ignition, and the other to the regulator?
Also where can I find a power curve for this alternator?
I do off-grid biodiesel. Even a 36 amp SI10 with two starting batteries will keep a 1/3 hp motor pumping cold WVO.
I would consider belting a powersteering pump to the Kubota, and pumping the oil directly with that...then there is nothing sensitive to fail when the oil is too cold or whatever other mishap possiibly happens.
Externally regulated alternators can be controlled in a pinch by attaching a automotive headlight to the field circuit. You don't get the nice topping voltage but it will allow you to vacuum the house while the Kubota powers the inverter.
If the EGR thing is too complicated, simply route the exhaust through a gas-water heater, to heat the oil. They make a pretty cool muffler if you find the one where there is stainless tubing flue tubing coiled in the tank.
And finally, there is always using DC voltage directly to heat the oil...the water tank elements are resisters that don't care how much voltage they have, but...low voltage=low heat.
Anyhow, been down the road you are on. Its a pretty cool lifestyle and I wouldn't go back. Have you thought of solar oil heaters mounted on the bus roof?
Also the best WVO pumps are Vickers Vane hydraulic pumps. Always leave the belt just a bit loose so if you do get some bone or something caught in the pump, the belt just slips. Works like a champ. And yet one more...look for the motors with the extra out of phase starting circuit, Its like a dc starting circuit, and its real easy on the inverter.
BPJ
yeah, my system will work as it is now.. but we start driving in May, so I'd like to get it dialed in before then.
I've considered belting the PS pump to the Kubota, but i'd like to use an electric pump. This is so while we're going down the road we can still filter WVO whenever I hook up the trucks alt to the battery bank. There will also be a hot water heater element right before the centrifuge for this purpose. I was going to just use the inverter... but perhaps 12v from the battery would be easier on everything.
Thanks for the tip on the pump. I was going to try to find a hydraulic gear pump. bore out the supply and return, and weld in some bigger pipe.
I have thought of solar heat, but for water, not oil.
I'm thinking i may just get this alternator on and going using a rheostat... with a dual field alternator will I wire one full field, and the other to a rheostat? Another thing that is fairly obnoxious is the belt on that alternator I have on it now slips terribly when i start it up.
also to run this new alternator, i'll have to change the kubota to a serpentine pulley. Anyone know of one that will bolt up to the flywheel?
Hello. Sounds like you have made some progress!
On the Kubota shaft, you can purchase a standard round shaft directly from a Kubota small engine dealer. The Kubota part #: 19501-8451-0 is a 3.5" long 1-7/16" diameter shaft to which you can then attach any pulley you want. Other shafts I know of are:
19501-8451-2 1-1/2" x 3.5" PTO shaft
14972-8451-2 1-3/16" x 2.17" PTO shaft
14943-8441-3 46mm x 90mm PTO shaft
On the new Alternator, not sure I understand what a Dual Field alternator is. I am thinking this means you have a couple of external terminals attached to the Field - so you can connect an external regulator. If this is true, the two terminals are just the two end of one field. You would attach one terminal to the regulator, and the other to either +12v or GND depending on if the regulator Drives High or Drives Low (P or N type). Very flexible alternator, but not Dual Field??? Do you by chance have a part number from this Bosch unit?
Thanks for the shaft info! that's good news.
I've done some more research on the alternator... here's where I'm at: The serial on the alternator is: 0 124 525 105. It's used on 06-09 Dodge Rams, and is externally regulated. It is a Chrysler alternator, which means the regulator is in the trucks electronic control unit, or computer. The reg often dies and what people do to replace it is this (http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i395/psycobilly64/My%2087%20Dodge%20Ram150LE/Voltage%20reg%20mod/regulator2.jpg)
(Image thanks to psycobilly64 @ dodgeforum.com). Under the description of how to do this it says that the one field is receiving 12 volts, while the other is receiving 2-6 based on what the regulator supplies... I'm 95% sure that they are understanding this wrong and all that regulator does is controls the ground, it doesn't send voltage to both fields. I assume that's what you mean by drives high or drives low?
So I'm also 95% sure that you can control either the field or the ground with a rheostat... and that it will be fairly simple to hook up an advanced voltage regulator.
I'd still like to get a power curve for the alternator, and then I can size the pulley appropriately. My guess is the alternator makes 70 amps at 2000RPM, and full output around 6000RPM... The pulley on the alternator is 2", so to get ~90 amps i'd really only want a 4" pulley. Let me know what y'all think. Thanks for the help!
Edit: i'm still trying to size the pulley because i'd like to just get the Sterling ProReg. I was hoping I could use the B which is rated for 90 amps: http://sterling-power-usa.com/proreg-b-12voltadvancedalternatorregulator.aspx. If my alt is rated for more, but belted for 90 I think i'd be alright. Thoughts?
Hi again,
Look, I appreciate everybody on this forum having the patience to read my posts...I like this forum because the people here do a real professional job with their designs and setups. I like to be inspired to keep improving my stuff til it starts to rank a bit higher then "cobble".
That said, I am the "master" of cobble. I've lived on the road in a bus, or truck for most of my life and know how to make do with anything. So forgive some of my suggestions if they are too crude.
If you want to pump oil and filter it while moving, you will obviously have somebody helping you. Consider a PTO with a hydraulic pump as your pressure source for the road. This setup should be very inexpensive if taken off a discarded single axle dump truck. In fact, these trucks are so worthless these days they are often priced right at or less then scrap value...so you buy it, strip the stuff you need, then sell the remains for a profit.
The picture of the regulator looks remarkably like every dodge external regulator I have ever seen in the 1980s or 1970s....hmmm.
One more bizzare idea is to use the serpentine belt on the flywheel itself. If the flywheel is flat, add a slight bead of belt dressing in the center, to form a small crown, and the belt will stay right there.
I know what you mean about the start up. Thats why I use headlights as the external resister. They only allow the voltage to rise to somethnig like 12.5vdc which limits the amperage drawn by the battery bank. Other wise the alternator smokes the belt...
BPJ
Quote from: JVD on April 18, 2013, 03:24:11 PM
Thanks for the shaft info! that's good news.
... I'm 95% sure that they are understanding this wrong and all that regulator does is controls the ground, it doesn't send voltage to both fields. I assume that's what you mean by drives high or drives low?
So I'm also 95% sure that you can control either the field or the ground with a rheostat...
I think you are right on both counts. You could confirm with a simple Ohm meter between the two terminal on the Alternator. I am GUESSING you should see around 2-4 ohms, but it could be much less... But hey, I would say you are on the right path! And you could always mock it up with a rheostat, start slow and see what happens...
Sterling seems to me making some interesting things, I am sure the regulator you pointed out would work fine. Of course, if all you want to do is bulk charge the batteries - perhaps a fixed (but adjustable via a POT) truck regulator would work as well... IIRC, I picked one up for around $30, but do not remember where....
And perhaps those Dodge forum folks can help you with the power curve. But if it is OEM Dodge, that info just might not be available...
Do you know if the Sterling has a 'belt saver' feature? Something that will let you 'reduce' the max amps produced? I know some of the Balmer units do, where you can set it for say 60% duty cycle. It is how I ran my alternator on my Kubota DC generator before making the integrated regulator / controller.
-al-
I can pick up that regulator for under $100, and if the alternator isn't producing more than 90 amps it should work safely. It has a slow start feature to limit the belt slip. If that doesn't work I'll add in a rheostat downstream of the reg to slowly ramp up the current myself.
I can't find any info about alternator output, so i'll just have to go with something. It's for a Dodge Ram 5.9 which has a 7.25" crank pulley. Probably idles around 750rpm and highway speeds at 2000rpm. 3.64:1 ratio (alt pulley is 2") so that's 2730-7280rpm at the alternator.
Most power curves for alternators look like this: (http://www.delcoremy.com/Images/PerformanceCurve-22SI-12v.aspx?width=428&height=490)
So finding that spot where it produces 90amps is going to be tough. I'm thinking it'll be somewhere between 3000-4000 RPM or a 3-4" pulley. Anyone have a source for pulleys with a 35-36mm bore?
Edit: trying to keep this on the cheap side I may buy/salvage this idler pulley: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dac-89057/overview/ 90MM pulley = 3.5 inches. The bearing is probably a 6203 so if i can pull it i'll be left with a ~ 40mm bore. Looks like they come on Ford 7.3 Powerstrokes.