OK so I have my roid running a lot now and I have an annoying apparently governor problem, it'll be sitting there purring away and for no apparent reason slow down so far some times it seems like it's gonna quit but it never does, this does not seem to correlate in any way with the load on my alternator, it runs into my battery bank first anyway.
I have replaced the original spring with a new slightly stronger spring, I also ran small springs between all the governor linkages to eliminate all slop, it does this every 6-8 minutes like clockwork, I'm out of things to try.
Watch the linkage, see if it's opening up the rack when it slows down, if it is then you don't have a gov problem.
At that point I would start looking at fuel starvation, sucking a gulp of air into the line, line collapsing ,etc.
Ron
I agree, what is the rack doing during these RPM droops. The spring should pull the rack open with any RPM decrease. If it is opening, but RPM is not increasing it is either overloaded, or the engine power output is reduced possibly from fuel starvation or air intrusion as vbub noted. If the rack is not moving, perhaps one of the linkages is binding and preventing a response to a load change...
I would start with ensuring that the whole governor setup is very smooth and all connections evenly snug everywhere. Any sticking points might be fairly subtle but can cause a variable governor response at the pump rack. Also be certain that your fuel-pump rack is very smooth in operation. Sometimes some poorly finished parts can make it through the assembly and testing process and yet have some flaws that manifest the way you describe. The linkages are sometimes bent or deformed either in shipping or assembly. This can happen to the external parts easily and somewhat less so on the internals. I believe that a lot of people have resolved sluggish or wandering governor issues with changing the springs as you described... It might be good to take a search through the LEF on that topic, I tend to forget the details sometimes...
Best of luck!
dieselgman
Ok, I'll go through the linkages and rack with a fine toothed comb, there are no air leaks, I have semi clear fuel lines, I could see air in the lines.
How is your fuel filter?
Ken Gardner
I also agree 100% with the possible fuel starvation issue!
If your rack is smooth, what happens if you manually move it when the engine rpm is dropping off? If it immediately comes back to speed, then it would indicate a 'lack of governor response' related issue and most likely culprits are the linkages. We've seen a lot of them bent out of shape.
dieselgman
Quote from: akghound on December 24, 2011, 09:52:09 PM
How is your fuel filter?
Ken Gardner
My fuel filter is a modern filter from TSC about 6-7 inches tall, it should be good for a year.
Quote from: dieselgman on December 25, 2011, 05:01:50 AM
I also agree 100% with the possible fuel starvation issue!
If your rack is smooth, what happens if you manually move it when the engine rpm is dropping off? If it immediately comes back to speed, then it would indicate a 'lack of governor response' related issue and most likely culprits are the linkages. We've seen a lot of them bent out of shape.
dieselgman
I was messing with the rack last night and I can move it 1/4" both ways with no effect on rpm, when I watch it closely the governor arm is basically in constant motion one way or the other moving in very,very small increments until it has one of the large movements and slows way down.
I never really did anything with making sure the pump timing is perfect could this be a reason for this?
moving the rack 1/4" should make a very large difference in the rpm of the engine. I would venture to say the fuel pump may be starving for fuel. As mentioned before check to make sure the fuel filter is not clogged.
I'll get a new fuel filter tomorrow so that can be ruled out.
Right, any movement in the rack must make a corresponding large change in engine speed! If that issue turns out to be the pump itself, we have them in ready supply as well as the elements to rebuild. Confirm your fuel supply is good, and then we can proceed with more drastic measures as needed.
dieselgman
A ΒΌ" of rack movement each way is a lot so take this with a grain of salt.
A number of people, including me, have reported the same issue and the general consensus is a temporary lack of fuel. I checked everything on mine but the only thing that made a big difference was to stop mixing 10% rug in with the WVO, especially during the summer. Seems like there were vapor bubbles in my heated hp fuel line. How can that happen to fuels under those pressures? No clue, but switching to 15% red diesel made a big difference.
Thanks, Geno
When your rack has one of its large movements, and you loose RPM, is the rack moving to a "give me more fuel" position, or "give me less fuel" position?
Bob
I'll have to check that out.
Definitely towards the "give me more fuel" position.
if the rack is moving in the more fuel direction either you have a fuel starvation problem or the ip pump problem. I suspect its a fuel starvation problem.
Well today I put a new fuel filter on it and it had no effect, so I screwed around with pump timing, I really can't make heads or tails of the directions in the book, it refers to a mark on the flywheel rim that is supposed to show 18-20 degrees BTDC, there aint no such mark on these flywheels, anyway I set it where they seem to be trying to indicate and added a stronger governor spring and it is somewhat better, it only slows down maybe 50 rpms now, not right down to sounding like it's gonna quit.
I can't see how it could be a fuel starvation problem, I have semi clear 3/8" lines and a large spin on diesel filter and everything is solidly full of fuel, never any signs of bubbles, I have the type of clamps you pinch with straight jaw wire cutters so those connections are super tight.
We had a recent discussion of this issue on the LEF where a fellow was having sluggish governor response... after going through all the usual suspects I believe his problem was resolved when he found that the external linkage was actually bent out of its original shape a bit - causing the problem. This was after he went to the trouble of working on his fuel pump. We can offer a replacement on the pump easy enough, but maybe best to recheck that linkage. Governor bottom lever and governor upper lever should look like 90 degree bends. That upper lever in particular often gets bent to some other angle during shipping/handling.
dieselgman
Oh I'm not givin up that easy, at this point I don't think it's the pump, right now I'm suspicious of one of my fuel line connections, I'm gonna straighten that out tomorrow and go from there, can somebody point me to some good pump timing instructions in English and given the fact that there are no timing marks on my flywheel.
Pretty good straightforward instructions are on LEF... unfortunately out of commission at the moment. You will have to locate and inscribe some timing marks on your flywheel. For starters you will need a pointer device of some sort, (I've seen them commonly bolted to the fuel pump), then you will need to find TDC on the compression/firing stroke. This will be the point at which the piston reaches its maximum height and is ready to descend again with both valves fully closed - cam lobes pointing down. You will need to mark this as a beginning reference point. Then depending on your specific flywheel diameter, you will measure back to find and mark the desired firing point around 20 degrees btdc. The rest can be done by-the-book for adjusting the fuel pump cam follower length until pump spill-point equals firing mark. Maybe the LEF will be back online shortly... if not I can pull up full details and post here when I get the chance.
dieselgman
I've got a perfect spot for a pointer on my fuel filter bracket.
You will have to make your own timing marks. First thing you do is find TDC. Pull the injector out and slide a long rod down in thru the combustion chamber to rest on top of the piston. Roll the flywheel slowly while feeling the rod rise to it's peak. Compare the rod with the keyway to locate TDC as accurately as possible. Make a mark on the wheel at that good pointer location. I think I used the banjo bolt on the IP as my pointer. Once you have TDC on the flywheel, use a cloth tape to measure the circumference of the flywheel. divide that measurement by 360. Multiply that number by 19 and measure clockwise that distance around the wheel from the TDC mark. That is your spill timing mark.
Spill timing is easy once you think about it. The IP is gravity fed. The fuel flows in thru the feeder port In the side of the IP cylinder. As the IP piston rises, it blocks this port. The point where the IP piston closes the fuel inlet port marks the start of the IP pump stroke and is the spill timing point. The IP then has 19 degrees of flywheel rotation to compress the fuel to the pop pressure of the injector right around TDC. There are 2 ways to find this spot accurately.
1. Set the flywheel just before the TDC mark(toward the 19 degree BTDC mark) Since you already have the injector out, remove the high pressure pipe and the top fitting from the top of the IP. Under that IP top fitting is a little plunger with a spring on top. Remove the spring and replace just the top fitting. That spring and plunger is a checkvalve that keeps fluid in the hardline while the IP piston is going down. Without the spring, the fuel can flow thru the pump easier. No fuel has flowed so far because with the flywheel between the 19 and TDC marks the IP inlet port is closed. Roll the flywheel back toward the 19 mark and fuel may flow out the top depending on your fuel source pressure, but may not with the plunger still in there. If it dosn't flow rock the flywheel back and forth across the 19 mark, oh make sure the fuel rack is in the full throttle position. Rocking the flywheel back and forth from before 19 degrees and TDC will cause the IP to pump fuel up into the fitting eventually filling it. At that point watch the fuel closely and with the flywheel before 19, slowly rotate the flywheel in the normal running direction till you just start to see the fuel begin to push up in the fitting top port. You can also remove the IP top fitting and watch the plunger valve move also. That point is where the IP inlet port gets sealed and the IP just starts to push fuel. That should occur at the 19 degree point. If it does not, you need to adjust the IP plunger linkage to make it happen at that point.
2. If when the spring over the plunger is removed fuel flows when the pump inlet port is open(before 19 degrees) or you can remove the plunger along with the spring to insure this happens. Slowly rotate the flywheel backward toward the 19 degree BTDC point and at some point fuel will start to flow. Slowly rotate the wheel in the running direction watching closely till the fuel just stops flowing. Again, this just indicates that the IP inlet port is closed, and again, this should happen at the 19 degree BTDC mark on the flywheel. You can go back and forth a few times to confirm it, but only check the mark when rotating the flywheel in the normal running direction.
I like method one as it will only move fuel and lift the plunger when rotated in the normal running direction.
It is also not as messy, dosn't spill as much fuel.
Once the spill point is set, re-assemble the IP check and spring and install the rest of the plumbing and injector and purge the system and run it:)
Since it is gravity fed, a restriction in the fuel path could inhibit the filling of the IP and cause issues without any sign of air in the lines...
Now THAT is English, spill timing for dummies :D Thanks a ton Ronmar.
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo27/listeroil/103-17119.jpg)
Ok guys I messed with the roid all day today, found TDC made a mark and a pointer then I found 19 degrees BTDC and made a nice mark. The up shot to this story is the fuel will never shut off no matter that I do, I can adjust the tappet bolt from not touching the pump to the tappet so high I can't roll the engine over because the pump piston is hitting the top of the pump and the fuel never shuts off.
I took the pump apart and checked everything inside, the timing marks on the rack and the gear are lined up, the curious thing is when looking into the fuel outlet hole and moving the rack there is never a spot where the passages are all covered or closed.
I followed Ronmars instructions so many times I can do it blindfolded, so, now what?
Important... are you certain you are on the correct stroke? Try spinning it through several complete cycles and try again... fuel must shut off at some point unless the plunger is stuck or incorrectly installed/machined. Stranger things have happened!
I can send you another pump or pump parts to help if you want to experiment with it that way.
dieselgman
Well, there is only one stroke where the piston is at TDC and both valves are closed, I'll do some more checking tomorrow and let you know what happens.
I have had the same problem. I have had the same symptom while timing the spill......then it magically fixed itself after much diesel on the floor. I think it was the rag I had tied around the pump to soak up the excess. Make sure the rack is open...? Maybe not .....I do feel your pain!
Well, I figured out a way to do away with the mess, I stuck a piece of clear vinyl tube on the fitting on top of the pump so you can see the fuel flowing, then I made a little bushing to put in the top of the tube to accept a smaller piece of tube that drains into a jar.
Quote from: dieselgman on December 27, 2011, 04:41:26 PM
Important... are you certain you are on the correct stroke? Try spinning it through several complete cycles and try again... fuel must shut off at some point unless the plunger is stuck or incorrectly installed/machined. Stranger things have happened!
I can send you another pump or pump parts to help if you want to experiment with it that way.
dieselgman
On second thought I think a new pump might be a good idea, that way I can compare the two to see if there is anything different, I suspect the piston but I can't be sure without something to compare it to.
OK, that sounds like one route that can be helpful for you. I did not hear from you whether or not you confirmed which stroke your engine was on when you could not get the fuel flow to stop. I have done spill timing on Listers hundreds of times and they fool me every once in awhile.
dieselgman
The inlet port must be sealing at some point, because if it didn't it would never build any/enough pressure to pop the injector...
Here is a silly question, did you get the 19 degree mark on the correct side of the TDC mark? When turning the flywheel in the running direction, the 19 BTDC mark should pass the pointer about 3.5" before the TDC mark does... TDC is with the flywheel keyway pointing straight down and both valves closed as you mentioned. On my 6/1 the IP plunger first starts to move upward at about 90 degrees BTDC and stops about 45 degrees After TDC... IE: the IP plunger only moves in relation to TDC on the compression stroke...
Yep, I double confirmed it's on the right stroke, key pointing straight down both valves closed, and yeah the 19 degree BTDC passes the pointer before it gets to TDC, I'm gonna mess with it some more once I get a little heat out there, it's 28 degrees F here this morning, we have been luck though, no snow on the ground.
I got my spill timing perfect finally, then I switched out my plastic fuel lines to hard lines with flare fittings, and still no joy, still getting a variation in speed, not as bad as before but ever five minutes or so it slows down 50-60 RPMs, when this happens the rack moves to almost wide open for a second or two to recover.
I can't understand how it could be fuel starvation, when I take the banjo fitting off the pump fuel pours out, I'm totally stumped.
Well do you have a test tank you could try? Is your current tank vented freely? A cyclic RPM shift might indicate a buildup of vacume somewhere that slows fuel delivery. The rack shifting might work this out till it happens again... A test tank with a inline filter would at least eliminate fuel flow as a source...
Yeah, I can try that, I got lots of tanks around here, I also think I'm gonna take the muffler system I have off, maybe too much back pressure, I'll try one at a time.
Water in the fuel??
Quote from: fabricator on December 29, 2011, 05:42:21 PM
I got my spill timing perfect finally, then I switched out my plastic fuel lines to hard lines with flare fittings, and still no joy, still getting a variation in speed, not as bad as before but ever five minutes or so it slows down 50-60 RPMs, when this happens the rack moves to almost wide open for a second or two to recover.
I can't understand how it could be fuel starvation, when I take the banjo fitting off the pump fuel pours out, I'm totally stumped.
Does it slow down then the rack opens or does the rack open slowly while it slows down? "when this happens the rack moves to almost wide open" If it is going to open after it slows down it has a problem in the linkage a noted issue area. The linkage has to be broke in with the rings ;D Oh when it slows down have you grabbed the rack and tried to speed it up?
@ Akg, it's pure, clean, dry, biodiesel
@ xyz, It starts to slow down then the rack responds.
Quote from: Ronmar on December 29, 2011, 06:38:48 PM
Well do you have a test tank you could try? Is your current tank vented freely? A cyclic RPM shift might indicate a buildup of vacume somewhere that slows fuel delivery.
That's an interesting thought. Fabricator, what is your current tank setup? Before going to the trouble of changing tanks, could you try simply running it with the cap removed to see if the problem disappears?
Quote from: fabricator on December 30, 2011, 06:21:13 AM
@ xyz, It starts to slow down then the rack responds.
That is not right... The rack should vary smoothly WITH changes in RPM. Possibly something hanging up somewhere in the linkage. I had to work on the yoke assembly at the top of the 90 degree bellcrank on mine to get it to slide smoothly thru the bellcrank arc of travel. The round rod on the yoke and the hole it fits in on the bellcrank, were a rough sloppy fit. I almost bored it out and put in a bushing, untill I was able to smooth it enough to get the yolk to slide smoothly. I put a VERY light spring across the union to control the slop... I have a throttle pull cable off of a weedeater I have set aside to experiment with replacing the whole linkage with a second small spring on the rack itself to keep the entire process smoothly in tension. Like many things, just havn't got around to it...
Fab, are you able to post or email some pics of your linkage pieces? A bent upper linkage has caused us some problems similar to yours before.
dieselgman
Quote from: XYZER on December 29, 2011, 08:08:45 PM
The linkage has to be broke in with the rings ;D
Oh when it slows down have you grabbed the rack and tried to speed it up?
I have reworked bushed machined bent tweaked my linkage and it never worked perfect from the start. I always had to oil wiggle and babysit to get things settled in. After time and it breaks in it works like a fine Indian watch....lol. A well documented common problem. To remove the fuel supply issue the next time it starts to slow down grab the rack and force it some fuel. If it speeds up it is not a fuel issue.
Dave
Yeah I can post some pics, maybe a little video, I already tested the fuel flow, I just took the fuel line off the filter and turned the banjo fitting straight up, adapted a chunk of 3/4 vinyl tube to the fuel line and filled the tube, same old thing, it runs smooth till it gets hot and then starts the high low thing, right now I'm checking valve tappet clearances.
OK, here is a long boring video, there is an example at the very beginning then a couple episodes toward the end, I don't know how to edit out the boring stuff. ;)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/fabricator01/th_MOV01404.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/fabricator01/?action=view¤t=MOV01404.mp4)
The video was insightful. I could help but wonder about the liquid fuel glimmering on the fuel pump. To me, this would imply a small leak and perhaps an air bubble entering the line every few minutes. Just my guess.
No, the fuel on the pump was coming from the vinyl tube I was using as a "tank", I was pouring fuel into the tube and a fair amount ended up spilling on the outside, it behaves exactly the same way with the tube straight up in the air full of fuel as it does hooked up to the tank and filter.
I've tried absolutely everything now, I ran it with the exhaust flange wide open, zero back pressure, the spill timing is perfect, I'm letting it sit shut down overnight and I'm gonna check the valve tappet clearance tomorrow, I don't see how that could affect this problem but what the hell.
The only thing that is consistent is that it always runs perfect for a while before it stumbles, then it will run perfect for a while before it stumbles again, but, it behaves the same with the regular tank or a vertical tube filled with fuel.
Sometimes it just loses 20 or 30 rpms twice it has quit completely.
When I had the exhaust flange off it was very apparent that when it slows down it's not firing at all, then the rack adds more fuel it really fires and blows black smoke.
So, I'm at a loss, is it possible it could be something with the internal governor weights? I don't know, I give up.
Quote from: fabricator on December 30, 2011, 06:27:12 PM
I don't know, I give up.
Don't give uup...I loved your movie.....I just listened to it and enjoyed it....and see you have a well behaved governor in my opinion. I would bleed the injector line while it was running and make sure it is all uphill from the pump. You can get a small bubble in a high spot and it will run but it will be lacking the amount of fuel the bubble compresses and behave funny. I would try it. I have done mine.....just put on your safety glasses and crack it open with a wrench. Slowly tighten it let it build speed and repeat. There will be no big spay and cut you in two........just a dribble will come out from between the nut and tubing. But I still wouldn't stick my fingers around it......It is worth a try.......just spilt diesel....
I agree, the governor looks as if it is responding properly to the RPM droop... Purging the HP line while running sounds like a good idea also. I usually wrap a rag around the nut and wrench, the rag soaks up the fuel that bleeds off.
Following another thought, tell me a bit more about your setup. Cooling system, Alternator, pully sizes, load it is connected to(all loads please) and voltage and amp draw during a typical run like in the video ect.
Also what is your target RPM and how are you measuring it? I timed and counted during the middle of that video while it was running stable, and came up with 100 firings/200 revolutions in 20.4 seconds. The math works out to 588 RPM, but it was a little hard to count firing pulses past the valve noise... A vid with less valve noise would allow me to make a more confident RPM estimate... If you are feeding a load and planning on 6 available horsepower but not making turns for it, a load change such as a electric radiator cooling fan cycling on and off or a load on the inverter cycling might be enough to exceed your available
HP at the reduced RPM...
Since you have allready done all the other things I would have tried first my "grabbing at straws" guess is you have a shard of some kind floating around in your fuel pump or injector that is hanging the delivery valve or poppet valve in the injector or they are hanging in the bores on their own and when the RPM drops enough to open the rack wide open it blows it out? Were it mine I'd have a 3/4 wrench ready and as soon as it slows down I'd hold the rack steady (so it doesnt go further open) and loosen the injector line on top of the pump. Fuel spurts or no will tell you where to look.
Fabricator I agree with ronmar the forum needs more info on load and the engine does sound somewhat slow.
But the following quote you wrote caught my eye.
Quote from: fabricator on December 30, 2011, 06:27:12 PM
When I had the exhaust flange off it was very apparent that when it slows down it's not firing at all, then the rack adds more fuel it really fires and blows black smoke.
So I read that as the engine is making smoke and then for several strokes you see no smoke then heavy smoke as it tries to cope is that right?
And you are positive the load is not dropping or partially dropping for a moment and then coming on hard?
Could be playdiesel put his finger on maybe a bad delivery valve?
Just thinking out loud trying to help.............
Billswan
Dale,
Your pump has 2 main wear components that are normally replaced on a pump rebuild. The plunger and barrel referred to as the pump element, and the delivery valve and its seat.
Both of these items must remain absolutely clean and are precision fit to each other to an extreme degree. These are not to be handled even with clean fingers for best results. They will easily slide within their mated parts with no stiffness or binding but a new item such as the element will require a wash of clean fuel and likely just a little break-in period. Both of these items are spring loaded so generally can recover from minor malfunctions. If either part becomes sticky due to imprecise fit or dirty fuel, then problems can begin with your pump. I believe that replacing (and re-timing) your pump with another replacement unit might help rule that out of the equation so I'll send one along.
dieselgman
My plunger is a tight fit in the barrel, when it is pushed into the barrel it will not drop out on its own it has to be pushed out.
Ronmar, I am belted to a Delco 27 SI alternator, my flywheel diameter is 23.35" and the driven pulley is 3.5" at 600rpms this is around 4000 rpms at the alternator, I am running into a 2000ah battery bank that hooks to an inverter that runs my water pump and freezer, I have the voltage on the alternator set at around 27.5 volts to keep the bank at float, there is also a wind turbine hooked to the bank.
Most of the time there is no load other than keeping the bank at float and I know this condition happens during these no load times
I slowed it down to 600 rpms to put more of a load on the roid, at higher rpms it was not even feeling it.
Quote from: billswan on December 30, 2011, 09:30:32 PM
Fabricator I agree with ronmar the forum needs more info on load and the engine does sound somewhat slow.
But the following quote you wrote caught my eye.
Quote from: fabricator on December 30, 2011, 06:27:12 PM
When I had the exhaust flange off it was very apparent that when it slows down it's not firing at all, then the rack adds more fuel it really fires and blows black smoke.
So I read that as the engine is making smoke and then for several strokes you see no smoke then heavy smoke as it tries to cope is that right?
And you are positive the load is not dropping or partially dropping for a moment and then coming on hard?
Could be playdiesel put his finger on maybe a bad delivery valve?
Just thinking out loud trying to help.............
Billswan
The answers are yes, yes and I'll check it out, believe me I appreciate any and all help.
Quote from: XYZER on December 30, 2011, 07:31:18 PM
Quote from: fabricator on December 30, 2011, 06:27:12 PM
I don't know, I give up.
Don't give uup...I loved your movie.....I just listened to it and enjoyed it....and see you have a well behaved governor in my opinion. I would bleed the injector line while it was running and make sure it is all uphill from the pump. You can get a small bubble in a high spot and it will run but it will be lacking the amount of fuel the bubble compresses and behave funny. I would try it. I have done mine.....just put on your safety glasses and crack it open with a wrench. Slowly tighten it let it build speed and repeat. There will be no big spay and cut you in two........just a dribble will come out from between the nut and tubing. But I still wouldn't stick my fingers around it......It is worth a try.......just spilt diesel....
It is all uphill from the pump, all fittings are flare fittings with hard lines, no hose clamps, I'll try bleeding while running, I've spilled so much diesel this week another fifty gallon or so won't be a big deal. LOL :D
Quote from: playdiesel on December 30, 2011, 09:06:39 PM
Since you have allready done all the other things I would have tried first my "grabbing at straws" guess is you have a shard of some kind floating around in your fuel pump or injector that is hanging the delivery valve or poppet valve in the injector or they are hanging in the bores on their own and when the RPM drops enough to open the rack wide open it blows it out? Were it mine I'd have a 3/4 wrench ready and as soon as it slows down I'd hold the rack steady (so it doesnt go further open) and loosen the injector line on top of the pump. Fuel spurts or no will tell you where to look.
I'm game for anything at this point.
I would also comment that for purposes of engine break-in you should try and add some loads and work it fairly hard. A resistive load in the form of small heating element is probably the easiest to manage and control. Running it very lightly or intermittently loaded may result in other problems with things like ring-seal. Get that engine hot!
dieselgman
Oh it's hot, I put a 205 degree thermostat in it, cylinder temp runs around 180 head temp runs around 208-209, the exhaust manifold flange runs about 225-230, when I lowered the idle speed, I raised the alternator voltage, when I get it warmed up and kick in the alternator it lugs down quite a bit, it's working.
Spare fuel pump and injector on the way... (just in case).
dieselgman
Thanks Gary, DES , the only way to fly man. ;)
Quote from: fabricator on December 31, 2011, 07:35:52 AM
My plunger is a tight fit in the barrel, when it is pushed into the barrel it will not drop out on its own it has to be pushed out.
That may very well be the problem. I should not be snug like that.
Quote from: dieselgman on December 31, 2011, 10:03:26 AM
Spare fuel pump and injector on the way... (just in case).
I am in the market for your old ones, to have for spare parts.
Linc, you may want to look into getting spare rebuild pieces if you are short on cash. The nozzle for the injector, and the element and delivery valve for the pump is available and fairly easy to install.
dieselgman
Gary, Et al, the new pump and injector showed up yesterday, unfortunately I had a catastrophic failure on the fuel tank, it split at the seam, so I made a new one out of 16 ga stainless ;)
Next I installed the new pump and the injector and it's been running steady as a rock for the last two hours, so, we shall see.
Thanks Gary, your patience and help is much appreciated, I'll put the old pump right back in your box and send it back asap.
My pleasure... Let's hope this takes care of the problem! :)
dieselgman
One thing that has me wondering, when I took the old injector out the whole tip was covered with carbon, since I've derated this thing, down to about 625 rpms I'm wondering if I should lower the injector pressure.
The 6/1 and the 8/1 use the same nozzle and injector pressures - you should be setup just fine as is.
dieselgman
Cool, one thing to check off the list.
Well it's been over 24 hours and it's still smooth as glass.
Well, we are glad to hear of your success! Most likely a sticky pump element or something along those lines. I'll check-out your old pump when it arrives here.
As far as 'de-rating' is concerned though, it will be valve timing that changes quite a bit. Something on the order of 20 crankshaft degrees difference on the exhaust valve from 8/1 to 6/1 specifications for the change from 850 to 650 rpms.
Best Regards,
dieselgman
Well, at this time tomorrow it will have been running for an entire week without a shutdown, the rpms only vary slightly now, I'm gonna shut down on Sunday and see what the injector tip looks like. Might even give it an oil change because it's been behaving. ;)