Has been sitting since at least 2008, wouldn't start until I bled the fuel system both via manually running the fuel pump as well as all the fuel line connectors. After that ran smooth and quiet but I didn't have the chance to test it under load.
Comes with an APC transfer switch which I don't need, me being off-grid. Also comes with remote start and gauges and manuals.
It's powered by a Kubota model D1305, 4 cylinder, 18.6 HP, diesel fueled, liquid cooled engine with electric start.
Hour meter says 60 hours, oil looks like it just came out of the can.
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S14gzUTVcdk
They are asking $2200
Thanks!
Can you keep it loaded to at least 60% (6-Kw)? If you can than I would say go for it. My Kubota D1005 genset needs a load dump at times when I run it. This is why I am in the works of building a 3-Kw genset.
Now if you want to use it for emergency standby jump on it right away.
Henry
Looks like I got the price a little wrong, $2300 without the APC transfer switch.
My normal usage is way below 60% but if I were to use it a 1/2 hour at a time to charge my battery bank as needed when the voltage drops below 48.8 I could load to the C/20 charge rate of 8 GC2 6V golf cart batteries, right?
Quote from: Jedon on November 03, 2011, 02:47:13 PM
Looks like I got the price a little wrong, $2300 without the APC transfer switch.
My normal usage is way below 60% but if I were to use it a 1/2 hour at a time to charge my battery bank as needed when the voltage drops below 48.8 I could load to the C/20 charge rate of 8 GC2 6V golf cart batteries, right?
6,000 watts @ 50V = 120 amps DC
GC2 6V batteries are 225A I think that will cook the batteries. And if you don't load the diesel enough, it wet stacks......
Sorry for my ignorance, but what is wet stacks?
I currently feed the batteries a max of 40A @ 110V ( 20A from each side of 220V Lister SR2, 20A into each inverter )
I could run our well pump at the same time, another 1800W
What are the downsides of never running it hard enough? ( wet stacks? carbon build up? )
Thanks!
Jedon,
I think it's a great deal if you have the money.
This is a very well built, no problems, genset. This thing will last forever and give you rock-solid backup power. No flickering issues or wondering if it will carry whatever load you throw at it.
No, it might not be as efficient on diesel as a smaller genset, but it will make up for it in long term reliability and no hassles. Also, Kubota and Onan are very good on replacement parts. Yeah, you might pay for it, but they are readily available and that is a huge plus imho.
Then there is always the resale angle which, on this unit, should be very good because it's the perfect size for a normal household backup unit.
My $.02,
Steve
PS - If you decide not to grab it, I'd like to know about it. Thx!
Quotebut what is wet stacks?
When a diesel is not loaded enough to get nice and hot, unburned fuel, oil, carbon and cool goo, collect in the cylinder, and slowly get pumped out the exhaust. The wet slobber dripping out the muffler looks unsightly, and indicates a nasty mess growing inside. And it's not good for the rings and cylinder walls. Adding the well pump won't help much, it's a
much larger engine than you have loads for. You could add a couple electric space heaters, that would help. Electric water heaters....
Thanks everybody!
I am planning on adding 8 more batteries in a month or two, would that help?
My SR2 smokes like crazy and I'm sure it slobbers all over the place since even though it's smaller ( 5.7KW ) after an hour of charging the batteries we leave it on to watch TV and let the batteries go into absorption for a couple more hours so at that point it's probably idling and we've treated it like that for a couple years.
My Metro 6/1 with ST-5 would be the right power level at 3KW but it lacks a few features like remote start and stop and it flickers the lights like crazy.
Optimally I'd spend some time engineering a remote start stop for the 6/1 and run the output into a golf cart charger to remove flicker ( I do have an AVR but doesn't help much ).
Then another battery bank, 4 more PV panels and extend hydro penstock.
In the meantime however, it would be nice to have something reliable, quiet and automated that eventually would be the backup but might function as primary evening power for a year or two.
Quote from: Jedon on November 02, 2011, 04:39:08 PM
Has been sitting since at least 2008, wouldn't start until I bled the fuel system both via manually running the fuel pump as well as all the fuel line connectors. After that ran smooth and quiet but I didn't have the chance to test it under load.
Comes with an APC transfer switch which I don't need, me being off-grid. Also comes with remote start and gauges and manuals.
It's powered by a Kubota model D1305, 4 cylinder, 18.6 HP, diesel fueled, liquid cooled engine with electric start.
Hour meter says 60 hours, oil looks like it just came out of the can.
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S14gzUTVcdk
They are asking $2200
Thanks!
Good deal. Change the oil and filter. Run it under a load. I've found 40% or more works fine on my 2004 RV-pullout. It's a great genset.
RajunCajun
Jedon,
I can keep my D1005 genset loaded enough most of the time to justify having it. It is only at nights in the spring and fall where I can get away with a 3 Kw unit. For myself it is best to have two differant size gensets.
The Kubota D1005 or D905 engine would be a better choice for your use. They would be much easier to keep them loaded and they would use less fuel. But if you can do a load dump it will do fine. I believe the D1305 will use over a gallon an hour when properly loaded.
Henry
Quote from: RajunCajun on November 04, 2011, 01:28:01 PM
Quote from: Jedon on November 02, 2011, 04:39:08 PM
Has been sitting since at least 2008, wouldn't start until I bled the fuel system both via manually running the fuel pump as well as all the fuel line connectors. After that ran smooth and quiet but I didn't have the chance to test it under load.
Comes with an APC transfer switch which I don't need, me being off-grid. Also comes with remote start and gauges and manuals.
It's powered by a Kubota model D1305, 4 cylinder, 18.6 HP, diesel fueled, liquid cooled engine with electric start.
Hour meter says 60 hours, oil looks like it just came out of the can.
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S14gzUTVcdk
They are asking $2200
Thanks!
Good deal. Change the oil and filter. Run it under a load. I've found 40% or more works fine on my 2004 RV-pullout. It's a great genset.
RajunCajun
0.269gph NO load, 0.55gph 1/2load, 1.04gph Full load
Hi Rajun Cajun,
Where did you get those fuel consumption numbers.
At half load it seems a little low.
Here are the numbers I have.
Kubota D1305 fuel use:
50% Load Gal/Hr.--.7
75% Load Gal/Hr.--.9
100% Load Gal/Hr.--1.1
These numbers are still very good for The D1305.
I still like to see diesel gensets ran at 60% or more. They are more effecent and will live a better life when loaded. (especialy in cold weather)
The numbers I quoted in my earlier post were for a Kubota V2403. Getting forgetful these day's ::)
Henry
Quote from: mike90045 on November 04, 2011, 07:43:16 AM
When a diesel is not loaded enough to get nice and hot, unburned fuel, oil, carbon and cool goo, collect in the cylinder, and slowly get pumped out the exhaust. The wet slobber dripping out the muffler looks unsightly, and indicates a nasty mess growing inside.
This is not a hard, fast rule.
I have been around diesel engine-powered Aircraft GSE (Ground Support Equipment) for decades, and that stuff is NEVER run to capacity. NEVER. Shoot... we have a 70 ton Hyster forklift with 6,000 hours of IDLING TIME on it!!!!!!! (Cummins 6CT8.3 liter)
I don't understand why everything is so overbuilt... a 6BT5.9 or 6CT8.3 Cummins engine powered generator is WAAAAY overkill on a 200 passenger plane running a few fluorescent lights and a couple of fans. Seriously! Same with air compressors, air conditioner carts, tugs, forklifts, fuel trucks, etc. etc. All of these devices have engine 3-4 times larger than really needed. They do NOT wetstack, so I think some of that is a old-wive's tales. It depends on how it is set up, I suppose. In 20 years I have seen very little to pretty much none of the "wet-stack" symptoms/problems.
Thanks again everybody! My neighbor runs his house off a 80KW with 14000 hours on it, changes the oil every 200 hours.
Seems like it is a good deal, when I build my barn I'll move it in there to run the shop type stuff and be a backup power location.
Quote from: hwew on November 06, 2011, 05:00:24 PM
Hi Rajun Cajun,
Where did you get those fuel consumption numbers.
At half load it seems a little low.
Here are the numbers I have.
Kubota D1305 fuel use:
50% Load Gal/Hr.--.7
75% Load Gal/Hr.--.9
100% Load Gal/Hr.--1.1
These numbers are still very good for The D1305.
I still like to see diesel gensets ran at 60% or more. They are more effecent and will live a better life when loaded. (especialy in cold weather)
The numbers I quoted in my earlier post were for a Kubota V2403. Getting forgetful these day's ::)
Henry
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=onan%20cmsd%20v1305&source=web&cd=3&sqi=2&ved=0CCcQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwestgenerator.com%2Fpdfs%2FCommercialMobilediesel%2F10KWCMSD.pdf&ei=yXG4ToXKIaepsQK06ZjxAw&usg=AFQjCNH1ijJg-2xMF2O_D555utaMC2Nwsg
Follow this you should be ok.
Generator set exercise
Generator sets on continuous standby must be able
to go from a cold start to being fully operational in a
matter of seconds. This can impose a severe burden
on engine parts. However, regular exercising keeps
engine parts lubricated, prevents oxidation of electrical
contacts, uses up fuel before it deteriorates, and, in
general, helps provide reliable engine starting. Exercise
the generator set at least once a month for a minimum
of 30 minutes loaded to no less than one-third of the
nameplate rating. Periods of no-load operation should
be held to a minimum, because unburned fuel tends
to accumulate in the exhaust system. If connecting to
the normal load is not convenient for test purposes, the
best engine performance and longevity will be obtained
by connecting it to a load bank of at least one-third the
nameplate rating.
Conclusion
Preventive maintenance for diesel engine generators
plays a critical role in maximizing reliability, minimizing
repairs and reducing long term costs. By following
generally recognized diesel maintenance procedures
and specific manufacturer recommendations for your
application, you'll be assured that your standby power
system will start and run when you need it most.
For additional technical support, please contact your
local Cummins Power Generation distributor. To locate
your distributor, visit www.cumminspower.com.
Just some food for thought. I spoke to an Kubota application's engineer at Kubota Engine America Corporation based in Illinois when I started my project about nine months ago. We talked about proper loading of the D1005 engine and he said they like to see them at least 60% loaded. He said they seen D1005 engines on gensets with over 40,000 hours on them. I will trust a Kubota application's engineer recommendation over anyone else. Why? They should know the load requirements of these engines.
Rajun Cajun, You have a nice genset there and would like to hear and see more of it. And Jedon, You will have a nice one soon. Just maintain them and run them with a good load at times to heat them up good and they will last you both a long time.
Henry
Thanks Henry,
I found my Onan 2004 HDKAG up in Georgia. It was a large RV "pullout" for upgrading. 1580 hours. V1305 Kubota. The genset had intermttent problems with starting, when I got it. I traced electrical sytem out. Finally found that the large wiring harness "twist connector" had 3 broken pins. Probably Vibration?
I removed the connector, hardwired/soldered the harness, doing away with the connector. No more problems. But, now I have an extra NOS solenoid, pc board, and relays. lol.
My son's friend welded the cart. I found the meter box on eBay, from the guy in Georgia. Works great also. The tanks, fuel filter setup, and muffler, all came from tractor supply. 30 gallon capacity. I painted it all to match. Ordered decals from eBayer. Attached photos show how the project progressed...
The unit runs great, now.
RajunCajun
Quote from: RajunCajun on November 09, 2011, 07:41:11 AM
Thanks Henry,
I found my Onan 2004 HDKAG up in Georgia. It was a large RV "pullout" for upgrading. 1580 hours. V1305 Kubota. The genset had intermttent problems with starting, when I got it. I traced electrical sytem out. Finally found that the large wiring harness "twist connector" had 3 broken pins. Probably Vibration?
I removed the connector, hardwired/soldered the harness, doing away with the connector. No more problems. But, now I have an extra NOS solenoid, pc board, and relays. lol.
My son's friend welded the cart. I found the meter box on eBay, from the guy in Georgia. Works great also. The tanks, fuel filter setup, and muffler, all came from tractor supply. 30 gallon capacity. I painted it all to match. Ordered decals from eBayer. Attached photos show how the project progressed...
The unit runs great, now.
RajunCajun
Very clean setup there. Very nice work!
Good Job, I like it!
I service generator sets specifically and have been working on standby sets anywhere from brand new to 50+ years old for a couple decades. The old-school methodology was to oversize everything... fuel consumption was not at issue. For testing purposes we could never get sufficient loads from the connected buildings and equipment so had to have portable load-bank tools. The question of wet-stacking and the 'rule of thumb' stating you must run with 75% load for optimum operation IS one that we generally use. Failing to do this on some engines does create a lot of unburned fuel in the exhuast stream, whether that results in a wet-stack depends on the design of the system and the particular engine and its condition. Many generator systems have oversized exhausts with sometimes long pipe runs. This is quite a different situation than on a vehicle where the exhaust system is minimized in size and distance from the engine. Most of the exhaust, and whatever it may be laden with, is simply passed directly to the atmosphere. This is also a function of how the system is run. On standby situations, sometimes the equipment is not run long or hot enough to cause the entire system to be hot enough to avoid condensing internally. The modern systems we install now are designed to be just large enough with a very small margin for overload and we rarely see any issues on them regarding exhausts being wet or contaminated with fuel or carbon.
dieselgman
So I got this set up and running and hooked up some solenoids so I could start and stop it from the house and it has been working great.
I have it set to charge with 33A per phase so 7260 watts, I then turn on the well pump ( 1800W ) so a total of about 9060 which would be 90% of the 10K capacity. Now it only takes about 20 minutes for bulk charge to complete since I only have 8 220AH golf cart batteries, so after that it runs at far below capacity unless I turn it off.
I've been thinking that the most efficient way to run it would be to set it up to auto start at 48.8V on the battery bank, bulk charge them for 30 minutes and turn off? The old 80/20 charge method where the batteries never really get into float except they probably will during the day when I'm getting enough solar power and the hydro is going.
This might prematurely wear out the starter and shutoff solenoid? Anything else bad about cycling the engine? Would it be better to just let it run for a few hours in the evening after it finishes bulk charging?
I don't have have a fuel gauge on the tank, looks like it's around 70 gallons. I guess splicing in a sight tube is the easiest? Is there some kind of float gauge I could monitor electronically?
Thanks!
Oh and Happy New Year!
30 minutes may be long enough under load for your system to reach full operating temps (which is a normal exercise target). A longer run than that without load may not be necessary nor practical. Do you have any pre-heaters installed on the engine? That can make a big difference in warm-up times and also on starter and engine wear and tear.
On the fuel tank gauge, a sight tube introduces the possibility of fuel leakage while a float in the top of the tank introduces extra complexity. I prefer the float method myself. Yes, they can be found readily that will connect with remote electrical gauges. A lot of the remaining questions will have to do with your tank design and available access ports.
dieselgman
There is a temp gauge so I should check what it reads after 30 minutes to make sure it's getting hot enough.
There is a cord coming off the engine that looks like it's a block heater, I should use that? Winter/Summer?