I bought a 8/1 from Gary at DES, after the usual cleaning, adjusting, priming, blanacing, profanity, balancing, profanity, balancing, profanity and several cases of my favorite brain focusing beverage, I think I have it domesticated.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/fabricator01/th_MOV01366.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/fabricator01/?action=view¤t=MOV01366.mp4)
Nice job on the balance! :) Looks good!
Next step is to put it to work.
Great balance!
OOOO! AAHHH! WOW! VERY nice job!
Ron
She is about as smooth as they can be made. Great job, now get back to work and finish her up, she will be hapier when she is making power ;D
My roid has drill holes in both flywheels from the factory to balance the engine. Even though it is still a bit jumpy, but add a good load and it smooths out a lot. Please report back when you've got a good load on her and let us know if it still runs as smooth.
I'm gonna get on the alternator mount tomorrow, this one has holes drilled in the flywheels too, but they sure as heck didn't help the balance at all.
That would be an interesting job. Drilling holes in the flywheels to make them look like the engine has been balanced. ;D
Casey
The strange thing is the holes are tapped with what looks like ACME thread.
Quote from: fabricator on September 01, 2011, 05:50:54 AM
The strange thing is the holes are tapped with what looks like ACME thread.
You think the Roadrunner tapped the holes in your flywheels? :D
Based upon my limited knowledge of true India craftsmanship: I'll bet those groves resembling ACME threads were probably the result of some sort mangled drill bit, slowly turning, chewing, and gouging thread like groves into the metal as the operator forced this blunt object down through the flywheel. Now tell me that's not a plausible explanation for this sort of threaded holes in an India flywheel.
Quote from: Horsepoor on September 02, 2011, 12:49:33 AM
Based upon my limited knowledge of true India craftsmanship: I'll bet those groves resembling ACME threads were probably the result of some sort mangled drill bit, slowly turning, chewing, and gouging thread like groves into the metal as the operator forced this blunt object down through the flywheel. Now tell me that's not a plausible explanation for this sort of threaded holes in an India flywheel.
+1
Meep Meep. ;D
Quote from: rcavictim on September 01, 2011, 07:53:26 PM
Quote from: fabricator on September 01, 2011, 05:50:54 AM
The strange thing is the holes are tapped with what looks like ACME thread.
You think the Roadrunner tapped the holes in your flywheels? :D
Or some other bird brain. ;)
Quote from: Horsepoor on September 02, 2011, 12:49:33 AM
Based upon my limited knowledge of true India craftsmanship: I'll bet those groves resembling ACME threads were probably the result of some sort mangled drill bit, slowly turning, chewing, and gouging thread like groves into the metal as the operator forced this blunt object down through the flywheel. Now tell me that's not a plausible explanation for this sort of threaded holes in an India flywheel.
That's a more likely explanation.
Here she is in her new home, got my wire pulled down to the battery bank, got the alternator mounted and belted to the roid.
It's new home is just down the wall from the bio diesel refinery.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/fabricator01/th_MOV01367.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/fabricator01/?action=view¤t=MOV01367.mp4)
OK!
Beautiful work; at least a click or two beyond my capacity.
I've read back through the thread and don't see the alternator specs. Is an 8/1 a lot of engine for that unit?
And now that you've mentioned the BioDiesel plant are you going to let us see it? Always looking for new approaches.
Casey
double click on the last picture and up pops a video!!!
Quote from: LowGear on September 03, 2011, 06:03:23 PM
OK!
Beautiful work; at least a click or two beyond my capacity.
I've read back through the thread and don't see the alternator specs. Is an 8/1 a lot of engine for that unit?
And now that you've mentioned the BioDiesel plant are you going to let us see it? Always looking for new approaches.
Casey
The alternator is a basic Delco 33SI heavy duty, it's a rebuilt unit bought locally for 200 bux, the dream alternator would be a Leece Nevill but even a rebuilt is big bux, according to my calcs if I sack my batteries and the alternator has to put out 80 or so amps it will load the 8/1 pretty good, if you click on the picture it is a movie, the bio plant is in the movie.
Quote from: fabricator on September 03, 2011, 06:38:43 PM
The alternator is a basic Delco 33SI heavy duty, it's a rebuilt unit bought locally for 200 bux, the dream alternator would be a Leece Nevill but even a rebuilt is big bux, according to my calcs if I sack my batteries and the alternator has to put out 80 or so amps it will load the 8/1 pretty good, if you click on the picture it is a movie, the bio plant is in the movie.
Output wise the engine and the alternator might be well-matched, bu the alternator looks so small next to the 8/1! ;-)
It certainly does, that is the difference in 21st century technology and1 19th century technology, a new 8hp briggs will run that alternator and it's about the same size as the alternator, but the briggs will keep you busy hauling fuel.
Quote from: fabricator on September 03, 2011, 06:38:43 PM
The alternator is a basic Delco 33SI heavy duty, it's a rebuilt unit bought locally for 200 bux, the dream alternator would be a Leece Nevill but even a rebuilt is big bux, according to my calcs if I sack my batteries and the alternator has to put out 80 or so amps it will load the 8/1 pretty good, if you click on the picture it is a movie, the bio plant is in the movie.
Very nice setup all around. Impressive batch sizes for the BioD.
That alternator may hardly load the engine at all. Perhaps far too much engine for that job.
24 vdc X 80 amps is only 960 watts or .96kw
If we apply the rule of 2hp per kw of generated electricity we get an engine demand of 1.92 HP
May not even be enough to seat the rings properly ?
One way to bring things back into balance is to slow down the engine.
CURRENT SETUP:
=================
Assuming you have 23" flywheels:
23"flywheels / 2.75" alternator pulley = 8.36:1 ratio
650 engine rpm X 8.36 = 5434 alternator rpm
SLOWED DOWN
=================
450 rpm X 8.36 ratio = 3763 alternator rpm.
The alternator should still be able to put out the desired wattage, but the engine
will be running closer to it's new max. output of approx. 5HP
just a thought...
cheers,
veggie
Veggie, I think you used 12 volts in your calcs.
At 28 volts and 80 amps you would get 2.24kw output.
Bob
Holy Moly!
QuoteBeautiful work; at least a click or two beyond my capacity.
"Dream on pool boy - This guy actually sweeps the floor of his industrial zone" (internal dialogue*). Paint me totally lead base green with envy.
The more I see the more I want to see. So are you going to share with us what you burn in the heater part of your BioDiesel Plant? The BioDiesel Plant? Feeder stock?
Casey
* Internal Dialogue -
A term used by intellectuals that talk to themselves and fudge on their lips moving.
Quote from: squarebob on September 04, 2011, 09:38:19 AM
Veggie, I think you used 12 volts in your calcs.
At 28 volts and 80 amps you would get 2.24kw output.
Bob
Yep, that is the exact graph I used.
Quote from: LowGear on September 04, 2011, 10:23:04 AM
Holy Moly!
QuoteBeautiful work; at least a click or two beyond my capacity.
"Dream on pool boy - This guy actually sweeps the floor of his industrial zone" (internal dialogue*). Paint me totally lead base green with envy.
The more I see the more I want to see. So are you going to share with us what you burn in the heater part of your BioDiesel Plant? The BioDiesel Plant? Feeder stock?
Casey
* Internal Dialogue - A term used by intellectuals that talk to themselves and fudge on their lips moving.
Sure, I am totally open source man LOL, that heater is a Korean war vintage universal utility liquid heater, mostly used for heating water for cooking and showers, it has a basic Beckett burner with a suntec pump, it basically flows the hot exaust gasses past an inner coil the over and outer coil, very efficient, I burn bio diesel in it, it'll heat 350 gallons to 140 degrees in about 10 minutes.
My feed stock is used fryer oil, we collect form about a dozen restaurants, I have a huge supply of centrifuged clean dry oil to run the roid on.
BTW, when I set up the bio plant I epoxied that section of floor, well, it turns out methanol, bio diesel, and potassium hydroxide will eventually break down epoxy paint, I mop down there so much almost all the epoxy is gone. ;D
Quote from: squarebob on September 04, 2011, 09:38:19 AM
Veggie, I think you used 12 volts in your calcs.
At 28 volts and 80 amps you would get 2.24kw output.
Bob
Thanks Bob,
You are correct. My error. :(
Problem still remains....
So at the 2.24 kw charge rate the engine must make approx 4.48 HP.
1/2 load for this engine, and only while the bank is demanding 80 amps.
As the bank charges, the load on the engine drops until there is virtually non at all.
Not criticizing, I have the same dilemma with my system.
Solution was to add a diversion load in the form of an element to heat the water tank or space heater for the shop in winter.
In this case, perhaps the excess energy could be utilized to heat the biodiesel reactor to the desired 131 deg. F.
The idea being to keep the engine loaded enough to be efficient, burn clean, and not glaze up the cylinder.
veggie
That is pretty much what I have in mind, I already have a dump load for my turbine, I have a tank with four 2000 watt water heater elements in it, my turbine only uses one, so I can use another one to keep the roid loaded.
I have a question for you roid experts, my exaust tappet spins really good, my intake tappet hardly spins at all, how do you fix that?
Give it some time.
Make sure the clearance is set right. Then observe.
Mine took about 5 hrs. of running before it started rotating properly.
Also, while you have the tappet adjusting screw backed off, see if you can rotate the lifter.
Sometimes the over zealous painter in the factory slops a bunch of green stuff into the tappet bore. ;D
veggie
Thanks for the peek under the tent.
Casey
Ref: rotation of intake tappet
I found several things that affected the rotation on mine.
As veggie said---clearance. And remember that is effected by temperature. It may turn better
after the engine is warm.
With the engine running, push down on the adjusting screw. It may start to turn. And that takes us
back to adjusting the clearance.
Also, there is a lot of slop in the rocker arm assembly (side to side movement). When assembling the engine
and trying to center the rocker arm on the valve, if the push rods are not straight up and down, it will effect it.
Then there is the polish (or lack of) on the tappet where it meets the cam lobe. If you haven't taken
the tappet out and examined it, you should. It could be rough machining on the side of it causing it to bind.
Or it could be you need to put the tappet in a lathe and clean up the surface that rides the cam. Mine looked
like it had been cut with a garden rake. The side view looked sort of like---MMMMMM.
Ralph
Well here's another update, she's making power and heating water now, although there is still no real load because my main inverter is out of service right now, but it's charging 16, 12 volt batteries.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/fabricator01/th_MOV01368.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/fabricator01/?action=view¤t=MOV01368.mp4)
It was off over night, when I got home tonight it was leaking water out of every gasketed surface on the engine, so I torqued everything down good and no joy everything still leaks, water is even coming out of top of the big stud that holds the rocker assembly on.
Water was dripping out of the flex pipe I have on the exhaust, literally every where there is a gasket on the water jacket.
Are you running this system pressurized? Also that copper tubing will work harden and fail in short order. Head gasket leaks are not uncommon on roids, do a search and you will find many threads on this subject. I think Gaskets to Go is where i got the gasket i have on my roid.
0-5 psi, the copper will have brackets so the only thing that moves will be the flex hose.
I had trouble with water around the stud at the rocker assembly too. I just put a bunch of silicone around the stud and between the rocker assembly and the head. No leak since. As others said, do not pressurize the cooling system in a 'roid.
I found my intake tappet wouldn't rotate properly until I rotated the tappet guide.
Just loosen the hold down nut, and rotate the guide a little at a time till you get good rotation (easily done with the engine running. Tighten the hold down nut, and watch your beautifully spinning tappet STOP....... loosen the nut again, and turn the guide a little more. Tighten the nut again, and repeat until it rotates with the nut tight. I strongly suggest you do the above after the engine is up to temperature, as the best position for rotation may be different when cold.
What exactly is the reason they rotate anyway? Just so they wear evenly?
Yes on the tappet rotation question, they last longer.
About water leaks:
I noticed that the 4 big cylinder studs were dripping water into the oil when I did my major tear down.
I discovered it when George warned me to change out the cam idler gear. I had 7 running hours on the engine.
The block is thru threaded for the studs, but not sealed. The studs pass thru the water jacket of the liner. I used water pump gasket sealer on them when I put the engine back together.
Quote from: bschwartz on September 18, 2011, 09:24:12 PM
I found my intake tappet wouldn't rotate properly until I rotated the tappet guide.
Yep! After many warnings of lifter QC issues the first thing I did was resurface the tappet face due to lack of a good surface thinking that would do it.....not! I loosened the clamp just enough that I could rotate the guide while it was running. Then I could find the sweet rotation spot. BUT...when you tighten the clamp it may change the amount of rotation. Just try again. I also found the mushy gasket they had would squish on one side and cause more tip in the guide. Don't overtighten the clamp it will deform and put preasure on the inside edge causing more tilt. I made several of these clamps that will not deform and keep the presure on centerline.
(http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/xyzers/xyzers%20stuff/lifterclamps.jpg)
Yeah I got that all straightened out everything rotates great now.