Micro CoGen.

Prime movers, diesel and gas engines => Listeroid/Petteroid/Clones => Topic started by: luv2weld on July 20, 2011, 08:48:54 AM

Title: Changing Bearings
Post by: luv2weld on July 20, 2011, 08:48:54 AM
Has anyone here ever converted the main shaft bearings on a listeroid from the original sleeve (bush) bearings to TRB (tapered roller bearings)??

I know it would mean changing the bearing housings along with the bearings. Is there anything to be gained??? Or lost??
More bearing noise is a given.

Ralph
Title: Re: Changing Bearings
Post by: Tom Reed on July 20, 2011, 11:26:40 AM
I think the crank for TRB's is different too.
Title: Re: Changing Bearings
Post by: dieselfox on July 22, 2011, 03:52:08 PM
Gentlemen / Ladies

This place puts tapered roller bearings in and has new covers for the block.  He used to show it on his web site. 
Caution - expensive here;     http://www.wcaeaps.com

Dieselfox
Title: Re: Changing Bearings
Post by: Tom Reed on July 22, 2011, 04:22:13 PM
EEE gads William rears his ugly head again. Don't believe ANYTHING from that web site.
Title: Re: Changing Bearings
Post by: luv2weld on July 23, 2011, 09:07:02 AM
Is it just me or does anyone else have a problem with setting up a crankshaft grinder in a tent???
Just doesn't give the look of professionalism.

Ralph
Title: Re: Changing Bearings
Post by: billswan on July 23, 2011, 08:46:00 PM
I see he has a utube video on cylinder head porting ::)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Z9CDrYVn7A&feature=player_profilepage


Must be getting ready to run them roids at 9 grand ;D ;D

Billswan
Title: Re: Changing Bearings
Post by: Henry W on July 24, 2011, 07:15:06 AM
Billswan,
It is pretty funny and I see it as you do.

There are things like RPM range engine will be ran, cam profile, rocker arm ratio, valve size, intake and exhaust velosity to look at first before considering porting. Then if the ports are found to be restrictive than porting can be considered. I seriously doubt this will be the case with Listeroid heads. They run at too low of rpm's to matter. A mater of fact on some engines, by filling ports in certain places to increase velosity, cleaner emission numbers can be achived. But this calls for lots of R&D. Porting cylinder heads on a Listeroid is a big waste of T&M. I doubt they would be able to measure any increase in performance. A matter of fact it could hurt performance. Now if I know the engine would last 50,000 + hrs I might consider hardened valve seats. But so far I believe noone has come close to that number so I would say keep your money and don't fall into that trap.

Oh, There is an easy way to increase efficency numbers on a Listeroid. Get rid of Indirect Injection. Get a Direct Injected head, injector and piston.

Henry
Title: Re: Changing Bearings
Post by: injin man on July 26, 2011, 08:22:15 PM
The Powerline Crank has an od of 2.155 or so. The Housing is bigger on one
side to allow for the bigger crank. These cranks are counter-weighted and
would really be a mess unless you had uncounter-weighted flywheels.
Title: Re: Changing Bearings
Post by: bloomers on July 27, 2011, 04:14:07 PM
Sorry to change the subject of this thread, but as your on the subject of  WCAEAPS what do you think of the engine oil lubrication idea he has put on his web site...  http://www.wcaeaps.com/lubrication.html
Title: Re: Changing Bearings
Post by: vdubnut62 on July 27, 2011, 04:35:44 PM
All I can say is that I have put gear oil in a worn slap out lawnmower type engine. And it does help with compression etc.
Just don't try to start it in cold weather or the rod will beat a hole in the grease that the gear oil turns into, and guess what?
Yep, no lubrication.
Ron
Title: Re: Changing Bearings
Post by: WStayton on July 27, 2011, 08:00:27 PM
Hi All;

  Let me start out by saying that what I know about Lister/oid engines you could put in your eye and not be very pained!!!

  That said, since the writer of the website is a known feather merchant, I would want to see everything detailed, annotated, inspected, selected and detected BEFORE I put much credence in it.

  However, when you select the lubricant for an engine it has to account for the ambient temperature otherwise your building a problem - nobody uses 10 wt in 120 F temperatures or 90 wt in zero tempertures.  Whatever you use, it has to be a compromise between what is thin enough to get in all the interstices at start up and thick enough to still have some film strength left when it reaches operating temperature - hence the popularity of multi-weight lubricants.

  I'm with vdubnut62 here, what's going to happen when its the middle of January and you stroll out and TRY to crank your engine at 0 F?  The little dippers on the bottom of the rods are going to come down and hit that puddle of macadam that is laying in the base and break-of/bend-over! <grin>

  Giant ship crosshead double-acting two stroke engines use something about like 120 weight hypoid gear oil for lubricant BUT they also use steam to heat everything for about eight hours before they even think about trying to start.  I guess what he is proposing would work if you use the same procedure and have some way to preheat in the cold - personally, I would rather clean up a little oil slobber!  <smile>

  I also can't believe that, in an engine with pretty wide clearances, some of that heavy oil isn't going to get by the rings when the oil/engine is hot and that will just be a bigger injector fouling mess than you have with thinner oil - yeechh!

  An interesting idea, but, I fear, a little lacking in its practical value!

  My opinion, which is worth excatly what you paid for it! <grin>

Regardz,

Wayne Stayton
Title: Re: Changing Bearings
Post by: LincTex on September 27, 2011, 09:30:58 AM
Quote from: Tom on July 22, 2011, 04:22:13 PM
EEE gads William rears his ugly head again. Don't believe ANYTHING from that web site.

Awww.....c'mon, he is entertaining!

Quote: "Since 2000 I have been involved with designing and building Top Secret power systems that will basically last generations with very little maintenance plus run on a very wide variety of fuels. These power systems are hidden underground and away from public view for good reason."

ROFL!!!!!!
Title: Re: Changing Bearings
Post by: fabricator on September 27, 2011, 03:53:18 PM
That could be a description of an item in a landfill, so he might not be lying. ;D
Title: Re: Changing Bearings
Post by: cujet on September 29, 2011, 03:23:28 PM
Quote from: luv2weld on July 20, 2011, 08:48:54 AM
Has anyone here ever converted the main shaft bearings on a listeroid from the original sleeve (bush) bearings to TRB (tapered roller bearings)??

I know it would mean changing the bearing housings along with the bearings. Is there anything to be gained??? Or lost??
More bearing noise is a given.

Ralph


It's my belief, however unfounded it might be, that plain bearings are superior.

Nearly all engines have gone from roller and ball bearings to sleeve bearings. They simply last longer and are more trouble free. In the case of the lister, I strongly suspect that the plain bearings support the crankshaft far better and will, in the long run, be a better choice.
Title: Re: Changing Bearings
Post by: fabricator on September 29, 2011, 03:43:40 PM
A lot of the original Dursley listers are still running, a lot of them ran 24/7/365 in places where the nearest screw driver or crescent wrench could be 200 miles away, if it aint broke, don't fix it.
Title: Re: Changing Bearings
Post by: Rom on September 29, 2011, 03:48:05 PM
Well I reason that TRBs are the reason we dont get SoM weight flywheels for listeroids. The bearing is too far inboard to support even the regular wheels IMO. Least not without flex in the crank. Compared to the white metal bearings, the TRBs are like 4" away from the flywheel, this distance is not supported compared to the plain bearing units. Maybe it really it isnt alot for the sake of flex, but a 120# flywheel is a joke compared to the 300+# SoM units.

Rom