Portable Battery Charger

[Geno]

My portable battery charger is coming together. I tried to prime the fuel system the other day with no luck. On taking the IP out I found it to be stuck. Instead of being smart and letting it soak I took it apart and buggered it up. I borrowed an IP from Biobill from a 6hp engine. Mine is 4.5hp. It was stuck too so I let it soak and it freed up, duh. We bought the engines together a good while ago and don't know how long they were sitting around before we got them but they were $80.00 each. The machining and casting are excellent quality. Kama brand, China. It took a lot of pulling to get the engine running and it smoked a lot but didn't run away. I was ready. Once the gov sorted things out it ran nice and smooth without smoke. I have a new IP on order from Carroll Stream. It should help a lot.

A battery and a little more wiring and it should be good to go. It looks like I'll have about $500.00 into it when I'm done.

Hey Bob, I'm really looking forward to your 48vdc setup for these Leese Neville alternators.

Thanks, Geno

[veggie]

Looking good!.

I notice you are running the alternator in reverse. (counterclockwise when facing the pulley).
Are you going to give a try to see if it cools adequately ? or did you find a CCW fan for the alternator?

veggie

[Geno]

The alternator runs clockwise when facing the pulley and the standard fan is for CCW rotation. I got a bi-directional fan on there now. I doubt I'll ever need full alternator output in this configuration but it should be good for 140 amps like this. The intended purpose is to charge 2 or 4 t-105s at camp. If I put a large enough inverter on the batteries I should be able to run power tools as well. You can get no name inverters pretty cheap on ebay. I doubt my tools care about the sine wave and they'll only be used a few minutes at a time anyway. Maybe I'll put cheap car batteries on it if I'm running tools. I dunno, there are a lot of things still up in the air and I'll figure it out as I go.

Thanks, Geno

[veggie]

Geno,

Correct me if I am wrong, but your pull starter orientation indicates that your alternator will turn CCW when facing the pulleys ??

veggie

[Geno]

Your right, I'm wrong. My alt turns CCW when facing the pulley and the stock directional fan turns CW. I even went out and looked before I typed 

Thanks, Geno

[veggie]

It's good that you were able to find a bi-directional fan.
The Delco 12si alternator I was planning to use on the listeroid spins the wrong way when I orient it in the most suitable location.
I may have to keep looking for a bi-directional Leece.

If you have the capability, post a video on youtube once you get it running.!

veggie

[Geno]

I hooked up a starting battery tonight and fired it up. Smoked like crazy till it warmed up and the gov took over. I put jumper cables from the alternator to my car battery and turned on everything. It didn't put out to many amps but with crappy connections I'm not surprised. I didn't have enough time to make it right. I'm very happy with how smooth the engine runs but it does have quite a bark for such a small engine. I need a 1200-1400 watt 12v load to seat the rings but I don't think I have anything that I can rig up. I think the spring tensioner for my belt is going to allow for too much alternator vibration. More testing is needed but I don't have enough time.

Thanks, Geno

[Geno]

This engine has a non-keyed 19.8mm shaft. I bought a pulley and a 20mm taper bushing to make it work. Last night, after an hour the pulley walked a ½" out but I caught it in time. I cleaned all surfaces and installed it again. Tonight it walked a 1/8" in an hour. I shut things down, moved the pulley into place and tightened it up as much as I dared. This was the first time I tightened it while hot. I haven't tested it this way yet.

How does one put a pulley on a non-keyed shaft correctly? I guess I could put in some kind of set screw.  I'd prefer not to get it machined for a key if I can.

So far I've "found" about a 1000 watts for it and it carries it well.

Thanks, Geno

[vdubnut62]

Geno if it still walks , try locktite bearing and seal mount compound. If that's not convenient I would give regular BLUE locktite a
whirl. Don't use the red, I tried it once in a pinch, and it WILL pull the threads out of aluminum.
Your shaft works out to about 3 or 4 thousands of an inch over 3/4".  You may have to find a 3/4inch taper bushing  to get it tight
enough. Now you are .007 undersize on your shaft vs bushing.
Ron

[Geno]

It seems .007" is too much clearance for a 20mm shaft. A 3/4" bushing would be too small. Well, if it walks again I guess its Loctite and some careful observation. Maybe a shaft collar too. It could be real messy if it walked right off.

See table 1 in the attachment.

Thanks, Geno

[mobile_bob]

you might think about using some .003" shim stock to make a sleeve to bush up the gap
than reassemble.

as for a keyway groove, use a small cutoff tool to grind in the groove in the shaft, and finish with
a dremel tool to fit the key
with a bit of work you can get a keyway cut into the shaft.

get it close and you can finish the sizing with a small chisel ground to shape suitable for your use
and then slowly drive it through to size the slot/groove with a small ballpien hammer.

i have cut many a new keyway using these methods on all manner of equipment, the results are only
as good as your patience, take your time and you can get an excellent result.

if it were me i would cut the keyway, then remount using the shim stock as previously described, and the problem
would be solved

bob g

[Geno]

Thanks Bob, I think I'll try the shim stock/Loctite/shaft collar before I try to cut anything. I'm sure it can be done but I would rather practice on something out of the scrap pile first.

Thanks, Geno

[mobile_bob]

another effective key method especially useful for the taperlock system

drill a hole the same diameter as the keyway needed, but only to about 1/2 diameter in depth
and then drop in a ball brg,

that little ball will locate and keep your taper from creeping, and even if it does it will wear into the taper
and lock it into place anyway.

you might give that some thought.

there are many gears and such that are heated and dropped onto a shaft that has a single pin for a locator
so i don't see any reason why it wouldn't work with a taperlock

fwiw
bob g

[Geno]

another effective key method especially useful for the taperlock system

drill a hole the same diameter as the keyway needed, but only to about 1/2 diameter in depth
and then drop in a ball brg,

that little ball will locate and keep your taper from creeping, and even if it does it will wear into the taper
and lock it into place anyway.

fwiw
bob g

That I can do without practice and will be plan C

Thanks, Geno

[Geno]

I put an .002" (004 since it goes all the way around) shim in the bushing, loctite on the shaft and a collar clamp on the end to hold everything in place. Nothing is moving where it's not supposed to anymore.

The exhaust valve had way too much clearance. The new IP is in and didn't make much difference. I don't know what the timing on this engine should be but the Yanmar's are either 14° or 17° BTDC depending on whether it's non-epa or epa rated. I set mine around 14° BTDC.

I ran it for a few hours tonight and I'm close to pronouncing it ready. I had 1000-1200 watt load on it and everything went well. The earlier alternator vibration is minimal due to some strengthening of the bracket. No smoke to speak of. I didn't see much heat anywhere but temps today never went above 10°F either. The engine started pretty easily after being in a 45°F garage all morning. It had some air in the system also.

Kama Video

What programs do you guys use to get larger format videos that don' have such a large file size? My "standard frame rate" video was 90 megs and this tiny video is 7 megs.

Thanks, Geno