110-555 or this ...

[keith71]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/303581902251                                                                                                                 

how would this compare to a Leece 110-555 ? Better or worse? 1075 rpm for 26 volts. 1800 rpm for 51 volts. 2600 rpm for 100 volts. Says about 54 amps. But does not say where the 54 amps are in the range. Would it put out 54 amps at 1800 rpm? They say more efficient because of no brushes. What do you experts say. I already have a 110-555 140 amp alternator.   if I run it at 24 volts with either a sterling regulator or a factory leece 24 volt regulator would that be a better setup than this pma? Thanks.                                                                                                                                                                                             

[Henry W]

I believe these were brought up years ago on this forum. Bob G and others commented about them. I remember that it was mostly negative what was written about them. Be careful what is posted on Ebay.

Added 12/29/2021 @4pm: https://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=2103.0


I would stay with a Leese and Neville 110-555jho triple nickel 12 volt alternator. They are cheap, reliable, available all over the place and can be modified for our application.

Henry

[keith71]

The 555 in 110-555 is the triple nickel correct?

[Henry W]

I am not sure. That is a question for Bob G.

[Henry W]

I found a pdf I had stored.


Must be logged in to open the attachment below:

[keith71]

The 555 in 110-555 is the triple nickel correct?

I read that thread on the pma alternator. I see why they are not nearly as good as the 555. thanks.

[mobile_bob]

i don't even know where to start on these ebay alternators
while the may have a use in some projects, there is no way on earth one will beat a 555jho for 24volt nominal dc charging

they blather on about the increased efficiency due to no brushes,  the 555 will make 2880 watts very comfortably with 35watts of excitation current on the brushes, and the brushes last nearly forever, and when they need to be changed it is all of about a 5 minute job, which includes time to round up the nut driver needed to remove the regulator/brush cover and the brush assembly.

when they tell you things like 100volts at whatever rpm, that is open circuit voltage, put a load on the alternator and the amperage will rise but the voltage will fall like a rock.

also the only way to regulate charge current to the battery bank is to regulate the alternator speed, not a very good approach in my opinion.

they have increase the stator stack, which increases the copper in the stator, this raises the inductance which in turn raises the reactance of the stator, which eats power.

the advantage of the 555 alternator is its thin stator, less copper equals lower reactance, larger diameter allows for 16 poles, much better brgs, ball bearings on both ends of the rotor as opposed to the typical ball front and needle brg rear of their alternator.  the standard rotor field allows the use of a 3 step charge controller/regulator. and lastly the 555's ability to do a solid 28.8vdc at 100amps with a stator internal temperature of 175 deg F with ambient temps of 75deg F. using 35watts of excitation (3.5amps at 10volts) running at iirc 4800rpm which is comfortably below the max design rpm of 8000rpm.  all this of course only "if" you use the  12volt version modified with a non avalanche diode rectifiers charging into a 24volt bank.  i have tested and determined the charging rate efficiency of the alternator as modified and used to be right at 80%.

currently it looks like amazon has a seller of new genuine 110-555jho alternators for $209, and i think one can find a sterling step regulator for around 150 bucks, and about 60bucks for the non avalanche bridge rectifier, and maybe another 15 bucks for a double A groove pulley or an 8 groove pulley and you will have a pretty hard to beat setup, that will give long service, be easy to repair, and provide accurate 3 step charging control.

bottom line is it is all in what one wants to do, if you want to use one of the ebay pm alternators, and are prepared to babysit the charging process and reduce or increase rpms to control the charge rate, and you don't care about max efficiency, then maybe it is the alternator for you.

if you don't want to babysit and control the rpms, then maybe the 555 as described makes better sense?  i know it makes wildly more sense to me.

bob g

[keith71]

Thanks for the explanation Bob. I was not really going to use one of those ebay pm's. I just wanted to hear the good and bad on them. And their aint much good about them I guess. Besides I have my 110-555 ready to go. New bearings cleaned up etc. Have my changfa r170 mounted and am starting the alternator mount shortly. I will be using an 8 rib pulley on the 555. And use the 9.5'' flywheel on the changfa for the drive pulley.

[Henry W]

Keith71, I believe the most common 8 groove pulley thats used is roughly 2.5" in diameter. I feel the pulley is probably too small in dia. If the engine is ran at 1800 rpm, the alternator will be driven near 6840 -7000 rpm. I feel that if you get a larger dia. Alternator pulley you will be happier with the performance.

I know there is a 8 groove pulley available that is 3.685" dia. This will drop the alternator rpm's down to roughly 4650 - 4700 rpm at 1800 rpm.

With the engine running at 2200 rpm the alternator will spinning near 5700 rpm. I'm not sure how much power the engine will produce at 2200. The Leece-Neville 110-555 max rpm limit is 8000 rpm. And, if the engine has to be spun up to 2600 rpm to make good power the alternator will be spinning near 6800 rpm. I think a drive pulley ratio of 2.578 will work ok for your setup.


Here is the description and part number for the 3.685" pulley:
K176106571S - PRESTOLITE ALTERNATOR PULLEY

Henry

[keith71]

Henry here are the only 2 I can find so far. Neither of them have the part# you showed(K11761065715) I also searched google and that # you gave me does not show up. Do you have a link to the one you found? Thanks.
                                                                                                                                                                                           
                                                                                                                                                                                           
                                                                                                                                                                                           https://www.ebay.com/itm/271937636462?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20210708121852%26meid%3D29b1282e6d834e2a8e6b1     


https://www.ebay.com/itm/173978012529?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2881e5cb71:g:RqIAAOSwEJtgCY40&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACsPYe5NmHp

[keith71]

My alternator came off of a 1990 Cummins 10 liter. If it makes any difference.

[Henry W]

Here you go,

https://peivinlookup.com/Category/K176106571S/Alternator-Pulley/

The part number is :  K176106571S
Sometime it's hard for myself to see numbers .

Before purchasing, see if someone can see if it will fit properly on an alternator shaft that is similar to yours. Or  have someone measure the dimensions.

[keith71]

Thank you. I kind of forget these alternators and pulleys were used on many many different makes and models of trucks. Thapulley should have the alternator spinning 5800-6000 rpm at 2200 rpm engine speed. Hopefully the little R170 can pull it. As it is rated at 4.6HP at 2600 rpm.

[Henry W]

A company is looking into aftermarket pulleys. There might be one larger than 93.6mm in dia.
They will be getting back to me.

[keith71]

Ok ,will you let me know what you find out? I will hold off on ordering a pulley. I am not in a rush and I would rather have one a bit larger anyway. Thanks.