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1st stage of power for OTG

Started by ncgyver, July 14, 2011, 10:12:42 AM

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XYZER

I learned from Bob G if you put a switch on one of the brushes you can turn on the alternator when ever you want.....or off. Not a progamable external regulator but will allow you to get it started and warmed up......KISS...... ;D
Vidhata 6/1, Power Solutions 6/1, Kubota Z482

Lloyd

#16
Quote from: luv2weld on July 26, 2011, 09:16:09 AM

What speed do you want to run the engine??
If there is already a pulley on the engine, what size is it (diameter)??

The formula for figuring the size of the pulley for the alternator or generator is:

D2 = D1 x N1 divided by N2

D1 - Diameter of pulley on engine

D2 - Diameter of pulley on generator

N1 - RPM of engine

N2 - RPM of generator

Ralph


Hi All,

Here is a little spreed sheet I made to find any one of the missing if three are known.

Lloyd


JUST REMEMBER..it doesn't matter what came first, as long as you got chickens & eggs.
Semantics is for sitting around the fire drinking stumpblaster, as long as noone is belligerent.
The Devil is in the details, ignore the details, and you create the Devil's playground.

ncgyver

Thx for the info guys. Nothing inexpensive about a Balmar or Sterling regulator. What do I need to do to the Alt. ? I was thinking about mounting the whole thing on a flatbed steel garden trailer/cart . I still need cables, belts, pulley's and the regulator. The cheapest I found was $280 for a Balmar ARS-5.

Geno

I bought one of these on ebay. It's supposed to be fully programmable. I haven't tested it yet but I'm going to build this fall at my OTG property so I gotta get to it soon.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEECE-NEVILLE-Balmar-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-MGM-614-AGM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cf8227bfaQQitemZ330580524026QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

See this thread for some more info on it.

http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=1878.0

Thanks, Geno

ncgyver

#19
I saw that on ebay. SO I went ahead and bought one.

Derb

Hi XYXER. With a car alternator (internally regulated) you generally have 2 terminals. Large for output to battery (direct connect - old school "D"), small for exitation (from ign switch/battery). To unload alternator for warmup or start, place a switch somewhere on the exitation (old school field) wire. If you are worried about overcharging, you could interupt one of the wires to the slip ring brushes and wire in a simple variable reo. Cheers.
Derb.
Kawerau
Bay of Plenty
New Zealand
Honda EU20i
Anderson 2 HP/Fisher & Paykel PM conversion
Anderson 3.5 HP
Villiers Mk20
Chinese 6500 watt single phase 4 stroke

getterdone

i've been doing the same thing only difference is my system is 24v and i use a listdroid and a 24v alternator.
i've tried a reostat for controll but it finely gave out. with a reostat you have to baby sit it. i'm still using the regulator that is built in to the alternator. not really good because.....you will never get a full charge.
you will kill your batt bank after a while. ask me how i know.
i just emailed sterling about why i should buy their product. i'll post the reply when i get it.
the only thing i see different between a sterling and a xantrex [belmar] is, xantrex has a equlize setting.,but sturling has a nice remote that you can buy. extra of course.
i dont need the equalize mode because i have a xantrex 4000 watt inverter that can take care of that.,when i drive my 4000watt granger generator head.
you need to have the option of equalizing every once in a while.
that being said.,sterling offers that remote that gives you a look whats going on. i think is neat.
i would have a hard time deciding which one to buy [in your case].
i'm going to buy the sterling. because it is cheaper and i already have the inverter that will equalize when i need to.
oh also use large size pullys on your engine and on your alternator. don't use any thing smaller than 3inch on that alternator because of slippage and belt ware. put some distance between your engine and alternator.this helps also in belt ware. say 20 to 25 inches would be good. also was stated size the pulleys so you wont be running your engine max rpm's. 3000 or a little slower is good.
hope this will help.

ncgyver

I'm going to start to assemble this thing soon. I Still need the belts and pulleys. I looked on Mcmaster-carr and they have some. Anybody can point me to a source for pulley's???

Henry W

#23
ncgyver, this should help.

http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=1368.0

Henry

Henry W

#24
ncgyver,

If you are looking for parts we have a parts source on the forum where you can find stuff.

Here it is: http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?board=64.0

Henry

ncgyver

I found some 10" pulleys that were used on Evaporative coolers, they look like they are steel not cast iron. Will these work  ?

Mad_Labs

Steel or iron should be fine for this application. My favorite spot for pulleys etc:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/

Jonathan