Preperation before putting Changfa type engines in service.

[Henry W]

I wrote this a while back and I thought it would be a good time to post this again.



This thread is written to help people prep engines that are commonly called Changfa type S195, S1115 and S1125.
This thread can also help people on prepping other smaller Changfa type engines.

Let's go through some things before we get started.
As we all know, no company is perfect. And all people make mistakes. I work for an ISO 9001 registered company where we strive to follow strict guidelines that all the proper steps and procedures are followed to ensure the product is built right. But even with all the redundancy built in a company as the one I work for defects still manage to work its way through at times.

This writing is based on the S195 since it is the one I purchased. The one I purchased is a direct injected engine. So the fuel effency ratings should be different than the indirect injected engine.

When I first opened the crate I looked the engine over and it looked very nice. The quality of the castings are very good. So good in fact that no filler has been used to hide imperfections. I put 30-weight diesel rated oil in, some off road diesel in the tank and water in the hopper and then started hand cranking. It fired up the first try. It was hitting and missing some but it cleared out after the first minute.

I had a smile that I could not get off my face seeing the engine come to life for the first time. I ran it for a time and then shut it down to check things over and this is where this thread actually starts.

I noticed the endplay seemed too much on the crank so I took off the flywheel and noticed lots of shims used between the block and the main bearing cover. The main bearing cover was removed and what was found was the bearing was not aligned properly and when it was pressed in the dowel pin missed the groove on the bearing and deformed the thrust side on the bearing. When the bearing was pressed out I also noticed the dowel pin seemed to long. After some measuring it was found that the dowel pin was missing the thrust side of the crank by roughly .004 of an inch. The Dowel pin was removed and a shorter one was installed with Loctite 272. Then a new main bearing that came with the rebuild kit was pressed in properly; Main bearing cover shimmed to proper clearance then re-tightened and checked again.

The other main bearing looked fine so it was left alone. So I decided it was time to remove the gear casing cover to check everything out. To remove the cover. Remove the injection line, remove the fuel line to the injector pump, loosen the injector bolts until the injector can slide back roughly 5/16 of an inch, remove cover bolts, push with thumb on starter-shaft to keep starter gear from pulling out with cover and pull cover off engine. What I was looking at was nicely machined gears; to me they seem quite large for this engine and should last for some time. The timing marks are numbered and it is very easy to set the timing on all the gears. A word of Caution! When you first look at all the timing marks chances are none of them will line up. This engine has gears that the idlers do not follow the same mesh pattern on every revolution. So the thing I did was turn the flywheel until they line up. Whew! That took some time.
But, what I found doing this was one countershaft was out of time by one tooth so that was corrected.

If you do loose time when taking the cover off I would suggest start from scratch and re-time all the gears. The re-timing of all gears are so easy that it took well under 5 minutes to do them. What helped with the ease of the timing is how well all the gears are marked.

Well by messing around I pulled on the Governor Ball Race and the balls fell out. It turned out to be a good thing. What I found was the bolts holding the Governor Ball Spacer were all loose by One and a quarter turns. It looks like the torque step has been missed. What I also noticed is lock washers were used but the Governor Ball Spacer is made out of plastic so I thought it is a good idea to get rid of the lock washers and replace the bolts with higher quality wide head bolts to prevent damage to the plastic Governor Ball Spacer.
I also replaced the counter shaft bolts with higher-grade bolts that were 5 mm longer.

Loctite was used as a precautionary measure on all fasteners on the gear train.

After checking everything out I just reassembled everything and gave it another test run. The test run was a success and I did notice some less vibration. It was probably due to the re-timing of the countershaft. Overall I am very pleased with the outcome. These engines are very simple to work on and I'm glad I purchased one.

I hope this thread helps others to know what should be checked out. Personally, it was an enjoyable time and it was not hard and long. It might of cost me at most $5.00 in higher quality fasteners. The most expensive cost would be the Loctite. But I look at it as cheap insurance.


Henry

[vdubnut62]

Thanks for the advice on the Chinese diesels. I guess I will have to go through the thing IF I ever get it here.
The thing is paid for, sitting, waiting on the OK from the big wheels to let me ship it. I work for the shipping company, one would think that
would simplify things, but just the opposite.
Still looking for a Changfa S1100 manual!
Ron

[rcavictim]

Henry,

What make is your China diesel?

[Henry W]

Golden Flying Fish

[rcavictim]

Golden Flying Fish

It's a cultural thing.  I wonder if you can fit parts from a Big Dong? 

Changfa seems to be the high quality standard of all of these nearly identical China diesels.  I have a new 1115 Changfa that is absolutely immaculate.  I also got a JiangDong that had black slimy stinky used oil in it and sand issues like an Indian Listeroid when I got it NIB from the factory.

[veggie]

Can't speak for the other makes, but my two Changfa 195's were also squeaky clean right out of the box.
I did open up the crankcase to check things out.
Epoxy painted crankcase and clean test oil throughout.
I was very happy with the quality.

Veggie

[rcavictim]

Here is a picture I took of the inside of my new Changfa 1115 as right out of the crate before I ever put oil in it.

Interesting to see that 1110 counterbalance shafts are the same as for the 1115 engine.  Yes there is no doubt that what I have is actually a 1115.

[playdiesel]

I would add to check your head bolt torque too as my new 1115 from Carrol Stream blew the head gasket the second time I started it. I checked everything else but not the head bolts, not to smart eh? I found 2 not very tight tight head bolts and two almost loose ones. They must have been expecting the gasket glue to hold the head on as I had a heck of a time removing the remains of the gasket from the deck and head.