Ran across this engine today. Sadly the subject line contains almost everything I know about the engine. It is electric start and ran when it was taken out of service. Looks very well cared for. I could not read the numbers cast on the block since I couldn't move the engine and it was setting against a wall, with a few tons of stuff blocking it in. The rpm tag was left blank, but there is a number stamped on the tag. It is
3401779TS2A02 (I really hope I got that written down right)
I can get the engine for $200USD, but I have to let him know early in the morning... Or it goes to scrap.
Can anyone help with information about it? ie hp, rpm, parts available, good or bad deal, is the governor okay for a genset, ect
Thanks a bunch
Cory
The TS2 is a good prime mover for about 7.5kW. They are commonly used for generators and $200 is a steal on that. We pay $250 core charge all day long for these - regardless of location or condition.
Good find!
dieselgman
Thank you very much. My gut feeling was to buy it, but $200 is $200 I don't have to waste.
I found a video of a ts2 on youtube and it sounded lower speed to me. 1800rpm?
Now I'm paranoid I'll miss it since I have to cow sit our pregnant, and pet, dairy cow until 2am. All nighter it is.
Thanks again
Cory
TS2 is well suited to run 7.5kW at 1800rpm but it may also be run from about 1200 to 2500 rpm.
dieselgman
Quote from: dieselgman on February 08, 2012, 06:47:17 AM
TS2 is well suited to run 7.5kW at 1800rpm but it may also be run from about 1200 to 2500 rpm.
dieselgman
I own it. I'll get some pictures tomorrow of it. It has a some sort of coupler on the shaft. Looks kinda like half a large lovejoy.
Thanks
Cory
Quote from: clytle374 on February 08, 2012, 09:47:47 AM
Quote from: dieselgman on February 08, 2012, 06:47:17 AM
TS2 is well suited to run 7.5kW at 1800rpm but it may also be run from about 1200 to 2500 rpm.
dieselgman
I own it. I'll get some pictures tomorrow of it. It has a some sort of coupler on the shaft. Looks kinda like half a large lovejoy.
Thanks
Cory
Good for you. Congrats! 8)
I thought I posted last night, not sure what went wrong.
I got it today. Been wondering about the coupler and if the generator that came with these, are they hard to find and/or expensive.
Now for the bad news, no compression. I'm hoping for stuck valves or other such simple problems. I can hear it 'breathe' so the pistons are going up and down.
(http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww70/clytle374/DSC00001.jpg)
(http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww70/clytle374/DSC00002.jpg)
(http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww70/clytle374/DSC00003.jpg)
Cory
Near the top of the last picture you posted there are two levers, one on each head. I believe those are compression release levers, they hold the exhaust valves open. Try moving them and see if you get compression. Maybe someone (Gary?) can tell you which way is which.
How is the cow?
Quote from: Thob on February 10, 2012, 08:03:30 AM
Near the top of the last picture you posted there are two levers, one on each head. I believe those are compression release levers, they hold the exhaust valves open. Try moving them and see if you get compression. Maybe someone (Gary?) can tell you which way is which.
How is the cow?
I think you're right, but I've already fiddled with them a bunch.
Cow is doing good, so is the little bull calf. Sucks that he is so friendly, like his momma, but being a bull we are taking the 'avoid physical contact' approach. His mom is a milking shorthorn/Jersey cross. aka a big teddy bear with horns. We had to pull the calf for 2 of 2 times now, hence the 24 hour babysitting.
Thanks
Cory
Cory,
Those topside levers are indeed the compression release controls. Before you get too far into this, have you checked the crankcase lube oil for proper level? How healthy does the oil look? When you claim there is no compression is this based on an ability to turn the crank over by hand through the output crankshaft coupling or by 'the perceived sounds' as the electric start spins the beast around? If only by the e-start action you could perhaps be fooled.
That engine looks like a sweet package and I think you got a good deal there. I suspect the problem is something simple.
Hi Cory. A few years back a mate came across a 3 cyl Lister of around 30 HP in a shed but couldn't start due to no compression. I removed the injectors and squirted around 2 tablespoons 20/50 engine oil in each cylinder to take up clearance in rings and valves. After half a dzen damn good high speed cranks then flicking over the decompressor, she burst into life. You wouldn't believe the crap which flew out of the exhaust mate! After a 1/4 hour we shut her down and the compression on hand cranking was awesome. This may help in your case - a good find mate. Cheers, Derb.
I only had a few minutes to mess with it. I was just turning the coupler over by hand. It was so weak it almost has to be the valves, or someone stole the rings.
I hate to start it until I see inside the cylinder since it was setting with the exhaust open. I'd rather spend the time and know for sure it's in or the long haul if need be.
Cory
I messed with it a little bit today. I opened the valve cover and verified the valves go up and down. Also there is some valve lash when closed.
Next I squirted several loads of oil through the little plastic cups and plungers in hopes of wetting the rings. Still no change.
I guess I might have to tear into it sometime soon. Hope for a carboned up valve?
Cory
Has your unit ever been stored outside? It is common enough for moisture to enter manifolds and damage valve seats, or stick rings in place if the valve is open. Also sometimes internal condensation can happen if your weather is just right for it. Other than that, carbon can be removed and your unit restored with a bit of elbow grease. Some people soak them full of diesel or kerosene and allow everything to loosen up that way. We generally just pull them apart and replace everything that is suspect. That can be as easy as a ring set and gasket set if engine not too badly worn.
You can use compressed air to help remove excess carbon if you first remove the manifolds.
dieselgman
I don't know if its been stored outside or not. I know its been inside a non climate controlled building for years and never been messed with. The guy I got it from is known to be trust worthy and said it ran when he got it.
I've got a few other things I gotta get done first, but I'll look into getting a gasket set for when I'm ready.
Thanks
Cory
So I've found 3 different manuals and all show the first 2 digits being the date of manufacture. I though that was even before the CS engines. I guess maybe I have no idea of the time line of Listers, and maybe diesels at all :-\
Next, I was looking at Listers website and noticed that they still list their NA headquarters as being in Olathe, KS. Being the I grew up there and lived 3-4 miles from the Lister plant, I was pretty sure they closed it in the 90s. Back when I was young and anything cool ran on high octane fuels ;)
Anyway, I think I start up the 16/1 and listen to it for a while, all this has gotten me in that kinda mood.
Thanks
Cory
PS: How loud is this TS going to be?
Okay so I was informed there is a hidden 50+ on the date code. So the engine is from 1984 and not 1934, wow, and I was starting to rewrite engine history.
Cory
If there is no compression it is quite possibly a valve or two stuck open from sitting. Try pulling the rocker covers and observing the valve actuation. Put a rag on top of the valves and push down by hand. You should be able to operate them against the spring pressure. This is more likely than a piston ring problem. There's lots of rings on those pistons.
I pulled the cover off one cylinder. The valves move and have close to correct lash when closed. So if the valve isn't closing, it's real close.
Cory
OK , now check the other one. I'd pour some diesel (4 oz) down her intake, wait a day, pour a bit more (4 oz) , wait another day, and then spin her up with the electric start. I'll bet the compression comes back.
You don't need new joints (gaskets) to tear down your top end to see what's up. The copper head gaskets will tolerate repeat use if carefully kept clean. No use spending any money on it until you see how good/bad it is inside.
If after a couple of days soaking, with valve actuation confirmed, she still doesn't have any compression, then it's teardown time. Worst case scenario is someone some fed her gasoline and blew the pistons? But even if the pistons are blown, you still got a good deal.
I poured some kerosene in it today and turned it over easy. It hydro locked so there aren't any holes in the pistons. I'll let it set for a couple of days and see how it feels. My gut still says pull the heads and also check out the bores so I have a better idea what the overall condition is.
Cory
Good so far.. The kerosene ( an excellent solvent) will soak the rings and free them up and soften the carbon deposits (if any) So you have piston crowns! That's a good sign. :-) And your valves are actuating, and sealing.
So now you just leave her for couple days, then spin over by hand to make sure not hydro locked. Your kerosene will eventually drain down into the sump, no worries there. Then hook up the electric starter, and bypass / energize the murphy switch with a jumper from 12v ( it probably has an oil pressure activated murphy fuel control solenoid( ?)
Crack the injector lines at the injector a half turn. Hand spin the engine until you hear the injector creaks. Rock it back and forth by hand , listening for the creaks until you start getting clear fuel leaking out at the injectors, then retorque the injector lines. .
Now she should be ready to start.
A slight clarification Tim... the injector will never 'creak' or open as long as the injector fuel lines are loosened. You spin over the engine long enough for air to exit those loosened lines and only clear fuel is coming out. Then tighten them up and the injectors should begin opening - a hydraulic raltionship with the fuel pumps.
dieselgman
Quote from: dieselgman on February 18, 2012, 08:23:34 AM
A slight clarification Tim... the injector will never 'creak' or open as long as the injector fuel lines are loosened. You spin over the engine long enough for air to exit those loosened lines and only clear fuel is coming out. Then tighten them up and the injectors should begin opening - a hydraulic raltionship with the fuel pumps.
dieselgman
No worries, I realized that. Still seems to have quite a bit of compression after 48 hours. More than a briggs, less than the Listeriod, never felt a good one it's really hard to judge. I need to come up with a fuel tank for it.
Cory