Micro CoGen.

Soon to be completed 6/1 Lister for sale. Should be done late year. Total disassembly, corrected in every way possible way and assembled per Lister technical data sheet per new engine specifications, NOT wear tolerances.  New hard valve seats, new Lister valves,  reground crank, best quality bronze back rod bearing. Both ends of rod reconditioned, new iron piston, good Listard chrome bore etc, etc. Too much new to go on listing. Price finalized when completed, estimated price cheerfully offered via PM. 
With a total of 7 CS types and roids through the shop just this year we know these engines and do them right, or not at all.

Due to high demand I am now stocking more parts than ever.  I have always kept gaskets of all types but recently added head gaskets for the large bore India engines. I have both copper sandwich and modern material gaskets for the 4.5 bores plus 120MM and 130MM. We always have everything needed for a standard overhaul and many other often requested pieces such as starting handles, fuel injection equipment etc. Please PM needs or requests and thanks to my many customers!

The Lister CS has the most over engineered fuel filter of all time but it uses a rope element that India cannot make right and OEM originals are solid gold. I like the housing but hate the element choices so I retrofit several types of elements in the housing. This one is my favorite one.
parts list is as follows.
1/4 x 6" brass (only!) nipple
3/8x 1/4 machined brass (only!)bushing
1/8" pipe plug.
3167 NAPA filter or equivalent.
Spring, optional
1/8 npt petcock optional.

After a run of various India engines through the shop an R A Lister CS is always a welcome sight. Thus ex SOM unit will be receiving a mechanical check over and a giod cleaning.

Out the gate I want to stress that this is not a primer for how to spill time an engine. Please use search if that term is foreign to you and once you have read the many good posts here on the site. You do need an air compressor or air tank and a blow gun with a rubber nozzle or some home adaptation.
If your Listeroid has timing marks on the flywheels ignore them unless you have verified the accuracy and where they reference to on the engine. Find TDC and make your own mark. 500-650 RPM engines time at 20° BTDC,  850RPM engines at 26°BTDC. I don't build engines to run at 1000, your on your own there. The formula to place your injection timing mark on the flywheel is flywheel diameter x 3.14. divide that by 360 then multiply by degrees of advance. Then measure ahead of your TDC mark that distance and place your injection timing mark.
Short cut hint #1 is to NOT try to loosen the pump adjustment with the pump installed, remove the pump then remove the adjustment bolt with a 21MM socket. Clean and oil it so it turns easily in the lifter, sure save lots of aggrivation and takes 5 minutes.

Short cut #2 is to pay attention when you remove the pump. Always due that with the lifter down. IF when you loosened the bolts the pump was lifted up off the mounting by the return spring inside the pump then your timing will be advanced waaay before 20 degrees, that assumes that the cam is properly timed.  Most 1000 RPM engines are shipped that way.

Short cut #3 set the pump down on the mounting, and set the lifter bolt so it just hits the pump piston, does not hold the pump up but no clearance either. Sure is easier to turn that bolt from the top with the pump removed isn't it??? LOL Now that you have it close , run the lock nut down with your fingers, set the pump back on and tighten the bolts.

Now finally we are ready to spill time the easy way and without a mess to clean up. Remove the hex fitting from the top of the pump. There is a spring under it don't loose it. Next remove the delivery valve with your fingers and set all aside on a clean rag.
open the rack and wrap another rag around the blow gun and give the top of the pump a quick shot of air to remove the fuel. The rag keeps the fuel from going everywhere.  Next roll the engine over until the fuel lifter starts to rise, you will be approching your injection timing mark. Now place your finger lightly over the top of the pump and with your blow gun blow air in the pump inlet. You will feel it coming out the top of the pump. Now advance the engine a few degrees and check again with finger and blow gun, repete until air flow stops. Adjust the lifter bolt until you achieve air shut off at or very near your injection timing mark,, don't fret over it too much as this your coarse adjustment.
Easy short cut #4. is to use needle nose pliers to turn the bolt and hold it while you tighten lock nut, you did remove and clean it up right?? LOL

To fine tune the adjustment turn the flywheel forward past the injection mark to TDC. Next dribble a little fuel in the top of the pump, just a few drops , the more you use the more mess you have. A handy way to do this is with a can of WD40 or other oil with a straw on the can. Now place your air gun against the iinlet and give it a little air, there will be a little bubbling in the element due to the clearances. Then turn the flywheel backwards SLOWLY, away from TDC and toward your injection mark, when the oil sprays out the top of the pump stop and look at your mark. realize that when it sprays you are a couple degrees advanced of port closure, aka injection start. Recheck and adjust until you have it right, which is port closure at your timing mark. Button everything up and be proud of the mess you did not make and having your injection timing perfect.

Over the years there has been a good bit of fret over getting the cam timing right when the idler has been removed for what ever reason. Here is how to get your timing right the easy way.

First thing is to turn the cam until both lifters are all the way down. Using a fine tip manic marker place a mark on the lifter body as close to the top of the guide as you can. How close os not as important as both being the same.  Next roll the cam over until you are at over lap, both lifters are partially raised but going opposite directions. Position tbe cam so both of your marks are the same height above the guide. Next move the crankshaft throw straight up.  Then slide the idler gear in place, it won't mesh unless you move the crank back a little bit then move it back forward. Then hold the gear in mesh while you move the crank far enough to install the idler bolt.  Double check your work by rolling the flywheels until the lifter marks are once again even and look at the crank throw posistion, it should at TDC or VERY slightly before, never after TDC.

Starting out 10 years ago as a hobby both CS Listers and Listeroid improvements has become a small buisiness. I average 6 a year through the shop and have accumulated both knowledge and a large acumulation of needed spare parts. I have full machine shop capabilities and offer restoration work on the CS Lister engines from minor to magor, Listeroid builds, complete cylinder head service including hard seats etc. I also stock all of the commonly used parts and usually have a CS Lister or two for sale. Central Ohio location.

All types of inquiries welcomed. Please contact through the forums or via PM for telephone number

Started on another Listeroid rebuild today. This time a twin and a other odd ball mixture of parts. Tag says GM90 but nothing is different than regular twin. Also rated at 22HP at 1000 RPM but has cast iron pistons, that's scary. Engine has either been outside during a hurricane or been under water as it was full of water to the crankshaft.

Hi all,
Thought I would share some shop work.
GTC 6/1 in for cleaning, correcting and assembly.  engine is actually all 8/1 other than the spiked flywheels. It came in along with a GM90 twin, first one of those I have ever seen in person and a Lister 6/1.  First phase is done, tear down and cleaned in the parrs washer.

Hello all,
I have a shot at a couple N.O.S. Petteroid air cooled singles, 6 and 8 HP. I had read some past posts about the runway problems but never did see anything posted on the exact cause or fixes? Also some models seem to be more afflicted than others. Anyone care to elaborate?

Just picked up one of the packaged Chinese generators with R195 engine and what I thought was a ST-5 but found out the head is brushless. Took the top of the doghouse and was supprized no AVR or electronics in there, looks like standard ST parts except for a rather large capacitor ( I think) and a Reostat for adjusting the voltage. Sorry ddint think to take a pic of inside the dog house but here is the tag. What did I buy and are they reliable?

Thought you guys would like to see it now that it is finished. The Bamfords is a sweet engine here ticking over at just over 500 RPM. We also have a Z2 that is next in the restore line. The Z series is direct injected with equipment very similar to what Lister used.

Has anyone besides me noticed that the smaller size air cooled diesels are getting harder to source? specificaly the smallest ones?
I am talking about the L48 Yanmars and the Chinese copies like Launtop and DEK. Most are sold as 4-5 HP.  I had been casualy looking for a clone engine for a home power project with no luck but this morning  we had the need come up at work to repower a small pump and thought I would try a Yanmar L48 and called the distributor to price one and he told me that they had a few left overs to sell but that they have been withdrawn from the US market due to EPA Regs .
I would assume that since the real ones cant cut it that the clones cant either but that might be a false assumption? Just thought I would post this so any of you who have desires for one of the small 4-5 HP air cooled units can get one bought while they are still available. I have to wonder how long the bigger ones will be around? 

BTW I was quoted $1095.00 for a real Yanmar just for refferance.

Link to ad on another site for Witte BDand CD parts.
http://www.enginads.com/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/50524/cat/all

I see that Tom Osborne now has some ST heads that come with a rheostat (did I spell that right?)  and digital readouts for voltage. I need another ST head for a project.  The two ST heads I currently own, 5 and 15 KW, are both close enough for my needs running right at 122-125 Volts when the RPMs are set for 60 hertz. I am kinda into K.I.S.S. when it comes to such because I am  'lectric challanged. Anyone have one of these newer ST heads? Is the cause for concern reliability wise because of the added Rheostat? I have changed out the junk dog boxes and figgure that is still a concern on the newest versions.

When bored I still search for interesting Listeroid stuf on the net and was lookin over Vihata's web site and came across this interesting series of photos they use to demonstrate the superior methods of assembly they use. Pay partucular attention when you come to the closeup photo inside of the crankcase showing about all of the parts in place. Hint, look at the ledges over all the ribbing. Looks like Vidhata makes sure you get your moneys worth of free play sand for the kids eh? Also check out the top of the rod journal. LOL Aint smart 'nuff to post the pics here directly

http://www.vidhataindia.com/pdf/vidhata_lister_quality.pdf

Been real cold (for Ohio) here all winter and it was around 10 degrees on the shop thermometer Saturday morning when I turned the heater on. While waiting for it to warm up a bit I spotted the Metro DI 6/1 sitting in the rear and thought, no way it will start,, will it? Had to try it, hasnt run since October. Turned over like it had axle grease for lube but manged to get it going fast enough to get it over compression and it fired off like summer time. Engine has very little time on it and didnt even hardly smoke other than the back you allways get with an open rack when starting.

I was impressed but maybe I impress easily? How cold will your engines start without assistance?

Just wondering?  Since several people have found ways to import the Listeroids in various stages of dissasembly is anyone out there considering importation of "parts kits" of the Chinese horizonals? If so I would be willing to help the project "off the ground" by adding several engines to your order total.

While I am no lawyer this ruling reads like as long as the units are intended for bio-mass fuels the EPA intends to suspend some emisions regulations that may allow for importation of "Bio-diesel only" engines?? How do you'all read it?  I assume that the importers are checking this out as I write.

Link to article.
http://www.biodieselmagazine.com/articles/7539/epa-to-delay-co2-regulation-of-biomass-biogenic-sources

 Admittably my experiance with this particular engine is not what some other's is but I have spent some time inside of engines over the years. In my opinion there is no reason for the gaskets to be a problem on a Lister CS or copy. Unlike some applications there are plenty of bolts in a good pattern around the cylinder nor is there pressurized water or oil pressure to deal with. In general it's just and easy application to seal, or should be. My Metro was a slobberer when I got it but when it went through the shop for desanding that was easily fixed. My 24 HP Powerline also slobbers but has yet to find a place in line at the shop.

Here is the offending part. The 1920s design headgasket as supplied. A leak waiting to happen when made right, let alone made of the wrong material and poorly executed.


Here is another picture, Think that gasket is copper? look closely. Hard to get a picture but that gasket is made of aluminum that has been thinly plated with copper, may not even be copper may just be copper anodized?. I am not sure if all Indian gaskets are like this but I have two sets of replacements that are made like this and the supplied gaskets on my Metro and Powerline engines are both like this one, pure  garbage unworthy of installation on anything I own.


Here good quality modern gasket construction. This one happens to be from John at Gaskets to Go but places like Lubbock Gasket can make them also (for lots more money). They will seal with no goop and last as long as the engine does.


Sorry if I am stepping on some suppliers here. If India is suppling real copper gaskets that are properly made to certain suppliers then maybe we should know about them? As it stands now there is no place I am aware of that you can get a complete overhaul gasket for decent money that contains both all the gaskets you need and acceptable quality. The GTG sets do not contain shimming gasets for deck height or roller type mains. I have been using GTG sets and shims from Indian sets.

One of the GTG gaskets on top of a Dursley 6/1 that is currently gracing my shop. Pefect fit.