Micro CoGen.

These capacitors worked extremely well when I nneded to smooth / filter out the ripple on the bridge rectifier output. This really cleaned up the ST VAC wave form. I used 8,000uf on my ST 15 and 4,000uf on mt ST 7.5. Here is the link where they are currently on sale: http://www.mpja.com/1000uF-100VDC-Filter-Cap/productinfo/18070%20CR/

Here is an excellent link on ST Wave Form Regulation explaining how to install these filter capacitors: http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=1833.msg25491#msg25491

I was going to present this topic in the future but now seems like a good time. Last year, as a constituent, I and other business men had good conversations with our Congressman Allen West, now former Congressman. There is a big push back brewing in the USA on the job killing, business killing, rules and regulations promulgated by this bureaucratic monster - the EPA. When people finally wake up and the pendulum swings back the other way in favor of getting rid of all these job killing / businesses killing regulations, then this is the time to act as follows:

Within the thousands of regulations being rolled back, will be a simple exception granted for stationary engines, just as the law read back in 2005 before unfavorable changes were made. We are a small group, the opposition and big fights will be on such things as defining the emissions of coal fired plants, vehicle emissions, etc. We are a small target.
 
This is when we, as a group, write our respective congressmen / women and push for repeal of CFR #123XYZ. Believe me, there will be so many other hotly contested regulations, our little area of concern isn't worth the environmental fight, and could easily pass virtually unnoticed within the thousands of repealed regulations. However, this would require a focused and directed letter campaign by forum membership to their representatives when the time is right. Today, the time is not right. Perhaps, the 2014 and 2016 elections will place majorities in the Congress, Senate, and Executive branch. If so, these newly elected representative will want to show some results, low hanging fruit, easy changes to EPA regulations, like the band on compression ignition stationary engines of less than 50 HP.

Former Congressman Allen West was on board; He was confident many of his peers would support this simple change and any the repeal of other regulations likely to promote business. I presented this proposal, along with other campaign contributors, from the stand point of stationary compression ignition engines, not necessarily Listeroids. Let's see what the future holds, I'll share more information when the revolt against these draconian EPA regulations comes. This is do able, we are a small environmental target. with voices across the country.      

There several threats on the forum related to shell and tube exhaust heat exchangers and the associated soot / fouling problems. Extracting heat from the cooling system, is easy, well defined, and not a consideration here. Thinking about an exhaust heat exchanger and wanting to have an easy to build, easy to maintain, simple enough for a DIYer to build anywhere in the world, I began thinking about this concept.

Executive Summary: Crude concrete box with soapy water inside, exhaust gas flows through the soapy water from bottom to top, heat exchanged to a closed system copper coil submerged in the soapy water, wrap concrete box with insulation, install drain in bottom to change soapy water every couple days and clean out all the crap that will accumlate.

Concept:
•   Creating a small concrete rectangular box container, about 3 inches thick, is not difficult, a few ½ plywood pieces, a couple of bags of big box store concrete, cast with two inch exhaust inlet at  the bottom, a one inch drain pipe / valve cast into the bottom so the dirty soapy water can be drained out.
•   Submerge the closed circuit copper coil into the soapy water so that the hot exhaust gas can bubble up and around. There will be a high Reynolds number and lots of turbulence. A toilet float system could be added on the side to keep the water level constant or one could just add more water during periodic fueling.
•   The top of the container must be fully removable so a small boat brush can easily and quickly be used to scrub down the container and coil. The cleaning process must be a SIMPLE (I.e. Two minute process). This must be kept simple, fast, and easy.

What do you think? I know this is not going to be as efficient as a multi pass shell and tube heat exchanger, but it should capture perhaps 40% of the waste exhaust heat, be extremely easy to clean and simple to build anywhere in the world. Your thoughts?

My intent was to post this comment on the old LEF thread related to Pre-Oiling but that forum is currently down for technical difficulties. A LEF member did a nice job posting a video illustrating how a small tube fixture, installed in the crankcase oil could splash oil all over the internal engine components with just a short blast of air. I was impressed by this short video clip of oil dripping down from most major components. This stated me thinking, here is my $3.99 contribution.

Whenever I start an engine that has been sitting for a while, I always check the oil level. For that matter, I check the oil level every 24 hrs when the engine is running, if not sooner also. So, I was thinking, the dip stick is already out for the oil level check, why not insert a slightly modified long ¼ inch air nozzle blower ($3.99 from Harbor Freight & Tools) down the dipstick hole and splash some oil up into the engine just the way the other member's video illustrated the Pre-Oiling?

In my approach, there is no drilling or machining to the Listeroid and the device can be used on both of my engines in seconds. Here is a picture of the unmodified 24 inch by ¼ inch air nozzle blower. I intend to shorten the bent end, plug the existing opening, and drill one or two small holes in the ¼ inch tube so that when submerged under crankcase oil and a blast of air is sent through the air nozzle, oil will splash up into the cylinders, piston, tappets, cam-bushings, etc.

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-tool-accessories/air-blow-gun-with-2-ft-extension-68257.html

For a couple of years, I've been thinking about the feasibility and associated cost factors related to building the following system out over a period of years. Known / constant factors:

1.   Xantrex 6048 inverter – price about $3,100 (new) – Will be integrated into a future system.
2.   6/1 listeroid – already own (runs at 650 or 800 rpm into ST 7.5) – output 3.3 Kw or 4.3 Kw
3.   48 volt battery string, 1100 Ah, to be increased/replaced years from now when solar is added.

Objective: During prolonged power outages, manmade or natural disasters, operate 6/1 in its most efficient zone (about 650 rpm) with 80% load supplemented by 6048 inverter to address short term (30 minutes or less) power spikes of 2 to 4 kW.

Observations: When configuring my house for reduced power consumption and taking frequent measurements with a remote senor Cent-a-Meter, I have determined 89% of the time my reduced evening and night time power needs are at or below 3.3 kW: Sometimes below 1 kW but not for more than 10 minutes. To get this low while still maintaining a normal life style, I replaced both 4,500 W hot water heater elements in the 80 gallon tank with a 1,500 W (top) and 1250 W (lower). Also shutting down one my two 2 ½ ton Seer 18i air conditioners allows us to comfortable inhabit either the upstairs or the downstairs, but not both at the same time. The 2 to 4 kW power spikes, on top of the 3.3 kW 6/1 650 rpm output, come from the random engagements of the following: five (5) freezers and refrigerators (various sizes from an office refrigerator to full size kitchen), 1 ½ HP well pump, microwave, various small appliances, TV, etc. Yes, I know I could force the wife to cram more things into one or two units and throw the rest out, but this is not desired due to all the STUFF she has frozen. Under absolute emergency conditions, choices would have to be made but this scenario is beyond the scope of my question and objectives.  

Questions & cost factors: Can I integrate a Xantrex 6048 into a basic 6/1 system that can be expanded over a period of years into a true grid tied backup with solar capabilities? Right now, is it feasible to build a "power assist" capability when running off grid (say hurricane prolonged power outages) to cover the power spike shortfalls of my 6/1? What would be the minimum required equipment needed to charge this small 48 V battery bank and the associated estimated costs? The cost factors are very important in all answers.

Notes: I've read many posts for those of you running off grid, always thinking about the feasibility and costs of the above described system. So I figured I would just ask for advice. Please indicate the associated estimated costs with any comments, so I can weigh the cost feasibility. I own a 20/2 that can handle anything the wife wants to turn on with both air conditions engaged (except electric dryer) but I like the idea of properly loading a 6/1 running for most of a 24 hour period as the battery bank is replaced / upgraded over a period of years. I figure, an undamaged, 6048 can later form the core of any future system as I build it out with solar and perhaps one day achieve true off grid status or at least reduced dependency on the power grid.

Advice and suggestions solicited.

Bruce      

In the attached video you can see the future of Obama's America, complete with an entirely newly created green job industry. However, the EPA mandates the Coke bottle may only be filled with pure / virgin, freshly captured rain water: The use of tap water, even if it is reclaimed water, has been declared wasteful, and a felony offense. All rain water must be captured during a windless night to avoid any daytime particulate matter. Yes, these high paying green jobs are coming to a town near you soon. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0_4qFrxw_4

I have a Metro 6/1 that came with an India alternator installed. It functioned for awhile but I just noticed it is no longer charging the battery. My problem is I dont know anything about these units, I like the small size, limited output (I.e. Less than 30 amp) which is just perfect for driving the 12 volt - 17 amp rated cooling fan and my emergency over temperture shutdown system. I figured someone on the forum must be familar with common problems which will save me a lot of aggravation and time.

In the attached photo, there are two spade contacts. I measured an AC voltage of 26 volts indicting the diode bridge in not rectifying AC to DC. I am considering taking the Alt apart to see what is inside or I could just hook up one of my large 50 A bridge rectifyers and perhaps call it a day. Oh, I wonder of the voltage regulator in the original configuration before failure was on the AC circuit or after the rectifier on the DC. Any input that will save me time would be appreicated.

I have a Metro 6/1 setup to run at 650 rpm or 800 rpm by using a two set pulley attached to an ST 7.5 generator head. I know the ST 7.5 is over kill but that is what I had. At least 90% of its projected life will be at 800 rpm because I need the extra power to start various pumps and other equipment. The engine is well balanced and I run diesel or waste jet fuel as the primary fuels. So I was wondering the next time I tear it down:

What if I replaced the cast iron piston with an aluminum piston?

I wonder what effect changing the piston would have upon balance at 800 rpm?

Would an aluminum piston screw up performance if I decided to run it at 650 rpm?

What are the projected positive and negative outcomes at 800 rpm and is this a worth the effort during the next tear down?

With the help of my friends here West Palm Beach and on the forum, I've just about finished my portable Metro 6/1 listeroid based generator. The 6/1 is running at 740 rpm with a 7.5 KW ST generator head. The gen head is over kill but at a maximum load of 4,500 watts starting well pumps and AC units, it runs cool. The system runs under clear smoke at 4,000 watts at what I estimate is the useful maximum sustained power. It runs effortlessly at 3,300 watts which seems to be in the range of my night time load with an upstairs 2 1/2 ton AC system on, night time lighting, 2 refrigerators and one chest freezer. I have a 16/2 GTC twin for heavier loads, more on this later on. So with some help from Rocketboy here are some video shots.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToXLQTXQ3qI

Got the Murphy Switchgage over temperature auto shutdown solenoid working very well. The larger solenoid will pull the rack closed from any position and hold with a 1 amp current draw.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZcW467k6Go&feature=channel

To move this 6 hp - 2000 lb generator around, I added a 12 volt winch purchased from Harbor Freight and tool ($49) on sale. Works well and allows me to load the unit onto a 16 foot utility trailer so I can move it to the homes of relatives, if needed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3H8pH_lwgfw&feature=channel

I've got my main generator shed up and running pretty well. The same Murphy over temperature emergency shut down system has been installed and it works very well. This is a GTC (Power-anand) 16/2 running at 800 rpm with a Georgia Generator ST 15 Kw gen head. Under maximum load I get 11,200 watts and can sustain 10,000 watts. I need this much power for all the AC units, well pumps (Horses), lights, laundry, hot water, etc. During hurricanes activation, I have to work 12 hour shifts which are really 14+ hour shifts. It's nice to come home to a cool house, clean sheets, cold beverages, and a hot shower. This Power-anand has been a God send: 2005 - no landline power for 21 days during the first hurricane, then no land line power for 14 days on the second. Because I live in an equestrian area, we are last to receive power restoration. Here is a quick video of my 16/2 with it's new electric start and an emergency over temperature shut down.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HYakTZnypA&feature=channel

I've really enjoyed building these engines out, I appreicate all the help I've received from forum members.

Bruce