Micro CoGen.

I can pick up that regulator for under $100, and if the alternator isn't producing more than 90 amps it should work safely.   It has a slow start feature to limit the belt slip.  If that doesn't work I'll add in a rheostat downstream of the reg to slowly ramp up the current myself.

I can't find any info about alternator output, so i'll just have to go with something.   It's for a Dodge Ram 5.9 which has a 7.25" crank pulley.  Probably idles around 750rpm and highway speeds at 2000rpm.  3.64:1 ratio (alt pulley is 2") so that's 2730-7280rpm at the alternator.  

Most power curves for alternators look like this:

So finding that spot where it produces 90amps is going to be tough.   I'm thinking it'll be somewhere between 3000-4000 RPM or a 3-4" pulley.  Anyone have a source for pulleys with a 35-36mm bore?


Edit: trying to keep this on the cheap side I may buy/salvage this idler pulley:  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dac-89057/overview/  90MM pulley = 3.5 inches.  The bearing is probably a 6203 so if i can pull it i'll be left with a ~ 40mm bore.   Looks like they come on Ford 7.3 Powerstrokes.

Thanks for the shaft info!  that's good news.

I've done some more research on the alternator... here's where I'm at:  The serial on the alternator is: 0 124 525 105.  It's used on 06-09 Dodge Rams, and is externally regulated.   It is a Chrysler alternator, which means the regulator is in the trucks electronic control unit, or computer.   The reg often dies and what people do to replace it is this
(Image thanks to psycobilly64 @ dodgeforum.com).  Under the description of how to do this it says that the one field is receiving 12 volts, while the other is receiving 2-6 based on what the regulator supplies... I'm 95% sure that they are understanding this wrong and all that regulator does is controls the ground, it doesn't send voltage to both fields.  I assume that's what you mean by drives high or drives low?

So I'm also 95% sure that you can control either the field or the ground with a rheostat... and that it will be fairly simple to hook up an advanced voltage regulator.  

I'd still like to get a power curve for the alternator, and then I can size the pulley appropriately.    My guess is the alternator makes 70 amps at 2000RPM, and full output around 6000RPM... The pulley on the alternator is 2", so to get ~90 amps i'd really only want a 4" pulley.    Let me know what y'all think.  Thanks for the help!

Edit: i'm still trying to size the pulley because i'd like to just get the Sterling ProReg.  I was hoping I could use the B which is rated for 90 amps: http://sterling-power-usa.com/proreg-b-12voltadvancedalternatorregulator.aspx.  If my alt is rated for more, but belted for 90 I think i'd be alright.   Thoughts?   

yeah, my system will work as it is now.. but we start driving in May, so I'd like to get it dialed in before then.

I've considered belting the PS pump to the Kubota, but i'd like to use an electric pump.  This is so while we're going down the road we can still filter WVO whenever I hook up the trucks alt to the battery bank.  There will also be a hot water heater element right before the centrifuge for this purpose.  I was going to just use the inverter... but perhaps 12v from the battery would be easier on everything.

Thanks for the tip on the pump.  I was going to try to find a hydraulic gear pump. bore out the supply and return, and weld in some bigger pipe.

I have thought of solar heat, but for water, not oil.  

I'm thinking i may just get this alternator on and going using a rheostat...  with a dual field alternator will I wire one full field, and the other to a rheostat?  Another thing that is fairly obnoxious is the belt on that alternator I have on it now slips terribly when i start it up.  

also to run this new alternator, i'll have to change the kubota to a serpentine pulley.   Anyone know of one that will bolt up to the flywheel? 

Got the alternator apart, cleaned up the connections, and it worked.  It is internally regulated, and it is a one wire alternator.   Good news it'll provide power to filter my veggie oil... however it's not so good for charging the batteries.

I found a Bosch 136A alternator at the dump, as well as a VW EGR cooler (much better design than the Ford EGR coolers).   The Bosch alternator is externally regulated dual field alternator.  To use a smart regulator I just connect one field to 12v ignition, and the other to the regulator?   

Also where can I find a power curve for this alternator? 

Thanks for the offer, but i'll just use the one for the Taco pumps (thanks for pointing me in that direction)

Another thought however:  I'm thinking I may need some flex pipe between this exhaust and the heat exchanger.  This kubota moves around a lot, and the rig will be on a truck... With how hard it is to find a 1.25" flange, I'd hate to crack the exhaust.

is it necessary?  Where can I find some 1.25" flex pipe?

Quote from: TimSR2 on March 28, 2013, 11:15:34 PM
I'd just make one up from some 3/16 mild, and some tubing....  with a hacksaw and an axe file and a cordless drill and some  dry 7018... not so hard to do.  Ford 6.0 is "double plus un-good!"   

I'm leaning this direction.  I'm thinking i'll also need some sort of flexible tubing as i don't want the vibration to crack the exhaust. 

I know the 6.0 EGR system is not the best, but i found two in a scrap yard... Tested both and they don't leak.  I figure I'll run them till I stumble on something better.

anyone know of a source for 1.25" exhaust flange's.  I need one for my Kubota, to bolt up a Ford 6.0 EGR cooler.   

I have the alt off, and am going to bring it over to an alternator guy.  I hope to trade him my LN 2500 to get this one up and runnung. 

I think ill start out simple as the motors main use will be wvo filtration, and when i stumble on the right parts ill add on some more intellegent alternator controlling.

I found 2 Cummins EGR coolers at the junkyard.  I think people take them off to get more power.. so the .ew plan is to add one to the end of the exhaust and pump the veggie oil through it.  The exhaust is the perfect size it just needs an adapter welded on.

Thanks for the math Al.


I tried to test the alternator by sending the current to either of the exposed posts up top... no luck.  I'm going to pull it and look for a replacement.  I'd like to get one the same frame size as the motor is already bracketed and belted.


I'm still working on some simple heat exchanger to heat the WVO.   My ideas ideas are:

Coolant:
To modify the radiator cap so it has a fitting for a hose, and plug the overflow.   Add a FPHE or a coil running though the WVO.   Before the heat exchanger add a pressure release valve set at ~14lbs (what i assume the radiator cap is).   I'm wondering if natural convection would circulate the coolant though the FPHE.  The WVO will already be pumped to run the centrifuge.  I'd like to use a FPHE rather than a coil in the WVO, because i don't want the copper sitting in the WVO for long periods of time. 

Exhaust: Coil copper pipe around the muffler, or clamp a small radiator to the side of the muffler.  Bolt of these don't seem to be very efficient.  I'd like to avoid running the exhaust though the WVO directly as this seems dangerous to me.



The electric motor will use ~500w.. so with 1200w i can still get the oil to temperature electrically.  I'm going to go ahead and put the system together this way and then work towards adding some heating systems.


Next time i pull the motor out i'll snap some photos

how many amps will I be able to draw with the EL300 (4hp)?  around 100?  I'm wondering if there'll be enough power to turn a motor and heat the oil.

Also I don't have any experience with natural convection.  Will thermosiphoning be enough to move the coolant up to a drum full of WVO, and through a copper coil in the WVO?  or would something like this require a pump? 

another great idea..  I'm looking into how to modify the radiator neck/cap.   I'm away from the motor for another week still, so I can't tell you about the pulley sizes.  I'll let you know as soon as I get back.

Do you know the differences between the EB300 and EL300? 

thanks for all the research... didn't even think about searching internet archives. 

I have a LN 2500LC... Thinking about pulling it apart and attempting to use that regulator.

I was also considering using the waste heat to heat up the WVO.   The motor is water cooled, but it seems to simply use thermosiphoning to circulate the coolant.  I'm thinking about adding in a heat exchanger right into the top of the radiator.. using the overflow tank from a car with a fully pressurized coolant system.   An exhaust heat exchanger will be a bit more difficult as the exhaust already points directly down below the motor about 5"... The motor will be mounted under my truck, so there's not a whole lot of room to add a exhaust heat exchanger.

Al,

Thanks for the reply.

I've fired it up, and I'm not getting anything out of the alternator.  This didn't surprise me however, as the two pins on top of the alternator are empty.  I was going to make a wire to the right pin to see if it's externally excited, and if it will then put out some power...  But when i started reading about all this, I decided to ask a few questions first, as I don't want to fry anything (thinking that if there was an external regulator, and it's been taken off... firing it up without it may burn out the alternator or something else).

I suppose i'll bolt it all back down, add the wire, and test it that way.

I'd really like to avoid buying a new alternator and a $300 controller, so it would be nice if it works. 

JVD

I just picked up a Kubota EL300-E(~3hp).  The motor was used on a construction sign to keep the batteries charged up.  It has a Lestek 9150 Alternator belted to it.

I live in a housetruck which has a solar panel, 12v bank, and 1500W inverter.  My plan is to use the Kubota mainly to power inverter, to run my WVO filtration system.   This system consists of a 1/3 hp motor, and the largest hot water heater element the Kubota will support.  I would also like to use the Kubota to charge the batteries when there is no sun.. however our electricity usage when not filtering WVO is very low.

I'm just getting into all of this, so feel free to point out all my errors 

Some questions:
Alternator:
I'm having a hard time finding any information about the Lestek alternator, as the company closed in 2004.  At the moment it's still on bracket.  I'm not sure if it's internally or externally regulated.  Anyone know some more information about this alternator?   I'm pretty sure it'll need to be replaced, but i'm on a tight budget so if i could use it, it would be great.   The model # is 9150 140amps.  I'll open it up and have a look when I get the time.  If i can't use the alternator, i'd like to at least use the bracket on the motor.  What type of mount is it?

If I'm trying to keep it simple should I just use a 14.4V regulator and rely on solar to properly top off the batteries?  Especially considering 95% of usage would be to run the inverter with a large load.  We'd only use it to simply charge the batteries if it was an "emergency".  Perhaps down the line I can add a three stage to also properly charge the battery bank.  (when I do it would also be pretty cool to tie it into the trucks alternator)

I'm thinking 140-160amp alternator 14.4v regulator.  Pulleys sized to output ~90-100Amps at the motors peak.   I'm also debating to add a rheostat or variac to manually limit voltage.  Do you think there will be a problem simply using the motor to limit current?

Any tips or comments are appreciated!