Micro CoGen.

Hard water? Sampled any Tennessee Limestone water lately?  Toilets will last probably 7-10 years before a severe limestone coating starts depositing in the bowl. I could dump Sulfuric acid in 'em, but not sure how that would affect the septic.
  Plumbing was 1/2 inch cast iron in this old house, with severe flow restriction due to, you guessed it, lime deposits. A Milwaukee sawzall works wonders in rusty pipe removal.
Ron.

Very nice Bruce. You do good work. I think that I will just take a wait and see on the temperature question. I believe  that after the house coil and then the coil to heat the garage,
the residual temp will be ok for domestic hot water. (crossed fingers)
Ron.

1. Finish the woodshed/boiler room/genny shed and get the mechanicals up and running!

2. Dammit!!!  Stabilize the house and find a way to stop/slow the sinkhole that decided to open up 2 feet away from the foundation.
The plans could or will involve piers to solid soil or bedrock and digging out the sinkhole as far as possible up to and including moving the house to another lot I own.
I am tired of drama, a nice boring year or two would be nice.

Ron.

 Well, it looks like we are gonna survive. Tamiflu is some really good stuff.
Thanks to all for the wealth of information!  It was suggested several time that I follow manufacturers directions as to the inlet and discharge locations. There were none!
It was just left from the point of connect a heat storage tank to the boiler. Sorry, I should have made that clear.
So, the consensus is hot comes and goes at the top, cooler or return and boiler feed from the bottom. That is going to be my plan then.
Veggie, I purposely oriented the shed so the slope of the roof faces south so solar was sorta kinda in the "plan". I'm taking baby steps, when, (and if) I get one facet of this thing
more or less mastered, then I'll move on to the next step.

Bruce what kind of temps do you have in that EPDM lined tank?

I sure thought there was a diagram on here that showed a tempering valve in line to the heat exchanger, but it's gone away.  Any suggestions for output temps?
I will be using a water to air exchanger in the air handler of my heat pump. It is supposed to be capable of transferring 100,000  BTU/hr.

Thanks again!!!
Ron.

Ok men i will have to rejoin the conversation at a later date . We all have the Flu, wife, daughter, grand daughter and me. Sorry,     i will see y'all.

Thanks Glort! Duly noted and catagorized.
Bruce, I'm not looking to save the planet(sorry!) Just looking to offset some of the energy consumed by the Electric Heat Pump by cleaning up damage from the Ice Storm a few years ago.

C'mon guys!!! I'm still looking for input..................................... Hell I'll beg if it comes to that.


Ron.

 Gee, I did leave out a few pertinent details, I warned you I'm not the smartest guy around. I thought stratification in a heat storage tank was a good thing? With the feed to the house coming from the top of the tank, I would always be drawing the warmest water.
 For thermal mass Glort, it will heat the house via 100,000 BTU/hour capable heat exchanger, and the garage via a 50,000 BTU/hour capable hanging heater. Flat plate heat exchanger for domestic hot water. Insulated tank in a dedicated building, 2 circulating pumps one continuously running on the house loop, another on the furnace that will run on heat rise. So I guess it will in fact be circulated in the tank. Yes the water will be corrosion treated with a product designed for outdoor boilers, also I will install a big effing anode.
 Yes Casey, very close, but an older design - not a true gasifier, but it does have a secondary burn. The water can be at any temp  from 160 to 200 degrees F, just a matter of turning a knob on the draft control. This thing is advertised to generate (is that the correct term?) an output of 140,000 BTU's an hour, and it is designed to be a "batch" boiler,  the reason for the heat storage tank, so it can burn hotter and cleaner instead of smoking like a train when "throttled down" and ramping back up to a full burn.
Ron.

P.S. Glort, in regards to the Daughter thing...... I have my Wife, Daughter and Grand Daughter living here, I should regard myself Blessed?

Bob you are a much, much better man than I.  I just prepare for me and mine and sit back and watch the rest of the word slowly die. We all know that is going to be the end result, but some keep on trying to right a sinking ship. Sorry I guess my cynicism is running rampant tonight, but I don't see a viable way out. How many times has the old saw "These Kids Today"
been uttered?

Now,everybody pile on and tell me just how full of ship I am. I asked for it. And I guess I need it too.
Ron inTN

Hello Gentlemen, I have never been the sharpest tool in the shed and if anyone has gotten any impression of the opposite (not very  likely), I am truly sorry!
I have been in the planning stages of my scheme for some years now, I plan to heat my home and domestic hot water with a Tarm water furnace. This particular device requires a heat storage tank.  The recommended storage is 800 gallons, but I have only managed to be able to finagle a 500 gallon propane tank that will be mounted in a vertical position as opposed to the horizontal for which it was designed. The Roid and the Changfoid will also dump cooling and exhaust heat into the system whenever they happen to be needed/running.
 My question is, should I plumb my hot water feed from the furnace into the very top of the tank, or down maybe 2/3 or 3/4 ?  The heated water will be taken from the very top and circulated to the house with the coolest water to the furnace/heat exchangers(for the engines) and the return from the house from the lowest point of the tank. Is this clear as so much mud?
I welcome any and all recommendations or suggestions.
Ron in TN.

Aw hell Casey, Glort isn't against renewables he just has more insight than the "greenwashed throng". Common sense and a really good bullshit detector are a rare commodity these days.
Ron in TN.

IIRC I paid $500 us for my Xing Dong S1100 About 10 years ago.   For what it's worth, your proposed engine looks exactly like mine.  Good luck and wishes!
Ron in TN.

Hey Glort,
The aforementioned "old" Camry did have to have o2 sensors,but at 250,000 miles or 402,336 klicks,  and it ran on E10 its entire life so... I would say their life wasn't affected by
ethanol laced fuel. Must be something in your fuel there that we don't have.
Ron.

  My Toyota's just couldn't care less what you feed them. They run the same on anything that comes out of a pump, driving my Tundra home from Denver, 1200 or so miles,
it got the closest thing to the exit ramp, ran the same on everything got 17.3 mpg. At home it gets whatever Sam's Club sells exclusively,(they tell me its Shell) 17.5mpg,  the Camry
gets the same fuel, but much better mileage. The story was the same with my old Camry, home from Boston, closest to the exit ramp, Sam's Club at home.  That car now has 289,000
miles on it, last time I changed my Mom in laws oil. (I gave her the car when hers died)  Still looks new and everything works. As far as I know, the fuel filter has never been changed.
    EVERYTHING else gets no ethanol.  Garden tiller, pressure washer, weedwhacker, blower, mowers 3 of em, Honda ATV's, 3 more, Jet Ski's, 3 of them too, log splitter, chainsaws 4 I think, small generators can't remember, anyway, you get the picture.
I have never had anything survive E10 unscathed except for my vehicles. Even my old 68 Chevy C-50 log truck handles it quite well so far.
My experience only. Your mileage may vary.
Ron.

If you maintain it well, in 5000 hrs it will be broken in.
Ron.

I do believe you, Sir, are an overachiever.
Ron.