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Messages - SteveU.

#1
General Discussion / Re: Cummins Engine
December 12, 2017, 01:27:44 PM
Nicely written and well said glort.
And your clear graphic and explanation is also very true Mr Veggie. Energy source changes takes place over time  as the previous primary slowly petters-out and the equipment's purposed designed for that previous primary source are worn out and replaced. Far, far too expensive and impractical to force rapid changes.

Unfortunately the typical Green is not a logical rational practical person. Emotional. Strident. Loud. "Activist" means antagonistic. Disruptive.
Since they do not read/research past what validates their adopted notions they cannot be bothered to change viewpoints.
Just like all of the new-convert-believer fanatics for the last 2-3000 years.
So-o-o-o convinced that their new-found adopted Beliefs are so, so, damn good, important, that ALL should be forced to adopt then too.

As not rational people you will save a lot of breath and personal time-energy to just adopt a short local relevant to your culture retort:
xxxx-you Green!!
xxx-you Green!!
Then go about your way . . . doing it your way anyhow.

Hey, your typical modern day Green makes themselves very sheeple wired-in, corded-in, gridded-in, socially-connected, power dependent.
Find their plug. And unplug it. (hint: in democracies that is the vote)
The electric forced air stops pumping up the yard ornament dummy and it collapses onto itself. Hollow. Windbag. No substance. No capabilities. Nothing to fear there.
tree-farmer Steve unruh
#2
General Discussion / Re: Cummins Engine
December 04, 2017, 11:38:33 AM
Now for contrast and comparison search up and view/read the different articles on the "Scottish island of Eigg". Claiming to be the first all alternative electrical powered island in the world.
Contrast the differences in the approaches.
On Eigg they had virtually no electrical power that the "Laird" did not divvy out supply.
Boot him out. Buy their own land ownership freedom. Make their own minimal needs power. Cooperatively.
The HI couple so all out on-your-own scared, and top-down grid seduced, allowed themselves to be green-spun to going back to grid-slaving. Personal power freedom was never in their efforts equation.
Watch the long PBS or BBC vidio version on the Eigg islander and see that most were not born there but chose to live there for the out-of-the-maddening-crowds lifestyle. Certainly Not for the weather and pizza choices.

Look on any alternative energy forums and those who factor in personal energy freedom distinctly as a primary: always DOer out perform those who talk, talk, talk,  forever-do-little's for any and all other reasons.
Why I say hurrah for you, Glort!! keep up the getting it on, man.
tree-farmer SteveU
#3
Very good summery recommedation glort.
BruceM is correct any of these internal regulated units can be gutted bypassed to an external regulator.
From your pictures I'd say yours would be done by de-soldering the six shown points on the back of the regulator/brush holder and just lifting the regulator off. Then test-light VOM track down the six terminal point to their curcuits. Probably both bushes would be insulated then with the capability to "A" circuit control.

Back in the mid-last century i had a commercially made up loggers charging system made up of a made-in California, McCullough 2-stroke (chainsaw-power head) and a Motorola small case alternator. This unit had both an external 12VDC and 24 VDC voltage regulator. Switchable depending on what out in the pucker brush piece of equipment needed starting batteris charged. Same mixed fuel as they used in their saws. Fire up the charger. Set to the proper voltage regulator and walk-away to do paying work listening for it to run out of fuel. Equipment crank to start then? No. 'Nother tank of gas-mix, and go again.

Purposed designed 24 alts, in the same case size, have smaller wire to limit the Amps made; then heat made, to prevent overheating the units.

The Delco SI series once turned on can only be turned off by taken back to zero RPM! Just like the old DC generator/control regulator systems.
Why Delco/Delpi later went off the SI system (internal field powering diodes) to have the ability to while spinning, turn-off, load-shed the alternator loading.
Small engine generating it is nice to be able to NOT be engine loading until warmed up enough for stable running.

tree-farmer Steve Unruh
#4
Your products links shows much.
Two of the units shown are double intenal fan units. The Denso for a Toyota forklift towards the begiining. And a Delco/Delphi 11SI, 3-4 up from the bottom of the listings. You can see that these are smaller overall for their wattage's than the other shown external front fan units. On these ALL of the cooling air must first be drawn trough the rear case openings cooling first the sensitive power diodes/regulator electronics. Heating that first-pass air. Then this heated air must be drawn past a very narrow internal rotating rotor to stationary stator gap. Lots of turbulence swirling there from the spinning rotor claw poles. Some stator lamination's and rotor cooling and further air heating takes place there in the center. This now reduceflow and further heated air flow finally cooling the front side stator copper winding; the front case bearing. The front bearing running HOT from lack of adequate cooling!! And heat transfered back from belt-to-pulley made heat.

The dual internal fan units do not relies on any rotor/stator gap air flow. Rear rotor fan suck in outside cool air first in the rear center cooling the rear bearing, rear electronics; then passing outward catching the rear stator output coils on the way out.
The front rotor fan sucks in outside cool air first past the front bearing; then out cooling the front side stator output coils.
A double doughnut inside-to-outside air/heat flows.

I cannot tell from you on-line text accent your geographical location. Toyota forklifts are worldwide.
IF you were EU I'd be looking seriously at Bosch(German) or Valeo(French)units. NOT American Delco/Delphi.
IF you were Asian/South America/Africa located then Korean Mando units in addition to the Japanese Denso's.
Use what is most common in your area.
THIS factor far outweighs hair-splitting % idealism's and perfections chasing.

tree-farmer Steve unruh




Regards
#5
General Motors DelcoRemy 10SI's were the cats meow in mass production automotive alternators from 1972 until slowly rare to find used, "free". Say the 1990's.
Since you seem to be shopping for new or like new reconditioned why do you not step up your power-input to charge-out efficiency by at least 10%in one of the next generation later double internal fan units? NO. Not the even older than 10SI press-on pulley Chrysler's!
One of the mid-80's and on NipponDenso internal fans units. Off Honda's, Toyota's, Suburu's and others. Ha! Including then Chrysler/Dodge! Nothing more common than a C/D/P minivan externally regulated Denso alternator, used, take-off. External regulator then YOU get to choose you own single, dual, tree phase regulator strategy. And even kinda' sorta US/Canadian domestic.
Now MY favorite is the late 90's and later Ford/Motocraft dual internal fan units. Hinged/swing mounted. or pad mounted. Swap-out pulleys on the most common 17mm very shaft. You get the very low, low speed cut-in, very low rpm charging in an external removable piggyback voltage regulator/brush-holder package. Super long brushes. Easy 200,000 mile brushes/bearing service life (6500 service hours0. EASY to without splitting the cases or even unit dismounting to replace those brushes. OR, convert this unit to external, remote voltage regulation. Only been installed on ~15,000,000 Ford production units.

Oh. Your link shows this suppler to actually be using a 12/15SI unit. Heavier/denser/wider rotor pole unit than any 10SI. Wider lamination stack, with wider(longer) output stator coils. 12/15SI's have improved cooling with the ducted plastic fron fan and case haves at the stator cut outs. Opened up back case side to allow higher charging rates an not heat cook the internal regulator and output diodes.
Ha! All things done better in a smaller package dual internal fan unit.

Your actual amps produced past the units electro/magnetic built in maximum is usually determined by the battery/use loading demand. A vehicle engine had power to burn. Small engine like yours - NOT. That selected higher grade external regulator you should be spending the money on will have an adjustable charge rate setting.

All of these regulators internal, external you just have to learn the use and functions of the extra circuits terminal wires. Have the ability to NOT turn on charging loads until the engine warmed up enough to have stable power/rpm.
"One-wire" means lazy thinking you. Because. Ain't no such animal as a only caring about one-wire. That one-wire still needs a back to the battery return flow good,low resistance circuit leg. I have seen far too many of these disabled by pretty painting putting resistance into the alternator mounting. Seen Many, MANY undercharge batteries without a direct from the battery to the voltage regulator receiving-voltage feed-back wire. One of the two on the Delco 10/12/15/27SI systems.

Easy think: means easy to fail.
tree-farmer Steve unruh

#6
Wow. Wealth of been-there, done-that, experienced based wisdom there MobileBob.
Too bad this forum does not have like-heart buttons.

On the leaked at first. Then after running and sitting, it no longer leaks; this is true of most old style fiber bases gaskets and seals. Even asbestos based with solid rod fibers. Think about it. No matter how compressed there will be spaces between the fibers. Dry they will weep trough these spaces. Once wetted with coolant, oil, heavy lubes these spaces fill and your weeping decreased to near nothing.
I have seen this time and time again on water well pumping systems using fiber gaskets, rope packing seals. You see this on carburetor float bowls that use/used fiber sealing rings.
IF always left wet, they do not leak.
Allowed to dry out, they will then leak until wetted "filled" up again.
Ha! being a 20th century modern, I too strongly preferred on use-once applications to pre-fill these inter-fiber spaces ahead of time with an appropriate sealant. Use-heat parts expansion movements; and then going cold contractions, even with sealant pre-filling you will have to re-torque tighten due to squeezed out "shrinkage".
21st century modern solid membrane gaskets are much, much better. How they got to no re-torquing needed. Folks would not bring back for post-manufacturing, major-repair inspections, re-torques and re-tightens.
As much as I and others have complained about the constant-pressure hoses spring clamps THAT was what that was about. The wonderful gear clamps did not change stretch - the underlying hoses did compress, and deform needing those clamps to be re-tightened later.
On my own processional repair jobs I learned to re-use, re-set constant-pressure hose clamps back into their original hose end indents and then stopped having clean concrete garages "since-you worked-on-it" dripping, come-backs.
live and learn by DOing
tree-farmer Steve unruh
#7
Well Mr Casey, I have hesitated responding in case it would be taken offensively.
But the life of a poor Bonsai tree is at stake.
Gas can plastic absorbs gasoline short chain components in the plastic.
Wine-corking you are on your own.
I have tried non-gasoline-origins plastic capping some can systems I had got used with missing spout caps. A working auto tech . . (a smart one) . . . save all of the air conditioning components system shipping caps for other uses.
Ha! Seemed to work . . . usually. Then I found caps sometimes missing, taken off, and thrown feet away out of machivious malice.
Nope says the wife.
Nope says the kids.
Nope says the brother-in-law.
Then one day I spied the culprit in the act! It was me!
Can left out where the moving sum could shine on it built-up internal vapor pressure - - - Pop! Goes the weasel.

Doing is learning. Al else is just talk-talk, speculations.
tree-farmer Steve Unruh
#8
Ahhh. There was the fingers problem. Forgot to take my morning meds. Meds? For memory loss. Amp up the brain nerves amps up all nerves.

My secvond exprenced ethanol fuels learning was about the late 1990's/early 200's switching to "returnless" fuel injection systems. Two lines to the engine compartment systems for EFI had been used since the 1960's early Rober Bocsh days. The mechanical diaphram/orcis pressure regulator located very near/on the engine.
The FI engineerrs always fighting injector tip oricice deposited building ups. The smaller the injector tip as the systems evoled out to just one tinny tiny squrt ever two revolutoin - the worse the problem got. The smaller the engines, the less fuel flows per hour the worse the problem got. Super big, super fine filters only sometimes seemed to help. Of course the simple answer was to blame the fuel. So fuel demanded to become better, cleaner.
Someone filnally figure out that recirculating all of the in-tank fule past the hot engine compartment fuekl pressure slit orricice was causing some of the fuel long chains to berak down. Then these were adversely recombining into deposits.
Move the fuel pressure regulator back into the always cool in tank fuel pump assembly. Get as much in-line fuel as possible out of the engine heat.
Ethanol and other added , mandate oxygenates WERE, and are, a factor in this problem situation.

And that 17 years in service 1998 spec'ed mini-van was sold off still running, compliment with it's original O2 sensors.
The even older, longer in-service 94 Ford pick-up I currently drive still has all of it's original O2 sensors.
In the circle of family and friends it is the post ~2003-05 vehicles that O2's code-out needing their sensors replaced for emissions compliment testing, re-licensing.. The OBDII compliance on-board self-testing algorithms have gotten super sensitive. Better air? Maybe a tiny-tiny diminishing results bit. For sure it pushes selling off, and into a new car finanessed contracts.
tree-farmer Steve Unruh
#9
Here is a couple of more real, personal experienced Ethanol fuel dosing factors in addition to all that have already been mentioned:
Small engines like the topic originator started this topic with are from a storage can filled. That can throws in it's own set of variable problems. Way back in the late 1970's I bought an expensive Type II fire/explosion safety five gallon gasoline can to driving range extend trips in my Ist generation VW Rabbit. ONLY place to put the can was inside behind the all open interior rear seat. Tied down well in case of a roll-over accident. Can had an internal brass flash suppression screen deep-cone inside the fill/pour-out neck. Strong spring pressure loaded fill neck cap acting as a vent off under severe over pressure. Can was "tern" plated on the inside for corrosion resistance. Means hot zink coated. Well the brass screen got torn out dropping down into the can after few years after encountering an too long of old style dispensary nozzle. After a few more years the zink oxidizing sacrificing itself to save the steel can walls and had particle shed off all along the inside top.
Can was fine for automotive use with big, good particles catching fuel filters.
Terrible carb clogging on small engines with no fuel filter, or at best just a coarse screen.
Taught me to become happy with certified plastic storage cans.
Then later with those still having problems in/out air breathing building up internal water moisture . . . to learn to love SEALED plastic gasoline storage cans. Use the better can and they will balloon out and NOT fall over. NOT suck in flex and crack and leak.
And now in just the last ~19 months using a lot of super fuels-sipping inverter-genrators; even with my proven sealed plastic cans back to carburetors clogging sometimes.
Reason for the problems? Super tiny small carb orifices for these use only 1 gallon US for every 10-12 hours of running.
Painters cone particulates filtering then adding fuel from my cans to these engines was showing up in the white painters filter cones small black slivers and flecks; and/or, red plastic can slivers from the can necks. The black debris were from the fuel stations hoses and dispenser nozzles. These are past the on-pump fuel filter. You do have to screw on-off the plastic can neck-cap each and every time the can is re-filled. Wear and tear there.

Ethanol or any other oxygenate additive had nothing to do with a mechanical "can" makeing my small engine run bad situations.

My second experience point later, maybe. Fingers tired.
tree-farmer Steve unruh
#10
Unfortunately this is not a clear-case of yeah/nay on ethanol-dosed gasoline.
In my living area of western Washington State we were EPA Federal mandate "blessed" to be required to winter season use an oxygenated Reformulated gasoline since the late 1980's.
The first oxygenate additive's could be methanol, ethanol, made-up like MTBE/MTBE and a few others. Some of these acted like whole system aggressive cleaners clogging systems with shed craps. Some actually corrosive to some of those systems components - again resulting in shed particulates crap.
Cogged flow systems still able to run, run lean and HOT, damaging from the hot/lean running.
That once a year cleaning/clogging became less of a problem after we were mandated to use oxygenated/reformulated gasoline year around. THEN small engine choking on some of these alcohols love for absorbing tank breathed in-out atmospheric moisture's.
Certified vehicles went to sealed tank charcoal canister vapor recovery systems. These mildly pressurize NOT constantly air breathing with warm-up cooling down cycles. Later our wonderfully expensive state Department of Ecology mandated all of the fuel dispensary tanks to be dug up retired out and have new double wall protection replacement types (not more ground water infiltration); leakage out active detection monitors; and have be sealed with vapor recovery systems. No more pavement pooling rain water seeping into venting caps!
Methanol -OUT! Later MTBE/MBTE - OUT! Clinton/Gore Renewable Fuels mandate then favors foods-price-jacking-up ethanol as the oxygenate additive dictate.

"Additive" is the operative circumstance to always keep in mind.
Over these decades of changes, I, friends, family members have all ran into miss-additive make-your-engine run like shit supplier Opp's.
The last time in the summer of 2016 on an adult nieces PT Cruiser. "I was on fumes getting to the gas station. I filled it up. Now it starts up. Idles terrible. And I cannot drive away. Help!" 10 days of deferred tuning-up, filter changing, injectors/rails/intake manufold cleaning, random misfire codes head-scratching until her "fill-up" 1/4 tank of fuel was mostly used-up, low enough for replenishing. New, different fuel and the problem cleared itself up. Open air flame test of the previous fuel showed distinctly different from the new/better stuff. Others were caught by that one station's tank fill Opps too. The other pump grades at that same station were just fine. Problem traced back to an additive dispensing pump problem at the fuel Distributor.

Yep. Any late model certified for sell into the USofA road vehicle will be safe on ethanol up to E-10 fuel. "Flex-Fuels" certified, designed good for up to E-85 ethanol fuels. We drove a 99 Plymoth minivan for 17 years that was an up to E-85 type. Of course I did try more than once over the years. Worked fine. But pay 20-30% MORE, here for 15-20% less mileage!? You see, s-t-u-p-i-d g-r-e-e-n tattooed on my forehead?
Grey-market imported vehicles? Maybe, E-10 yes. Maybe, not.
Small engines search out and pay the price for the non-oxygenated stuff to be safe. Most small engine outside of the latest CA/CARB spec area ones still have air breathing in&out fuel tanks!
Just in the last 10 years 21st Century the local prison burnt up a pallet load of Shindowa brand equipment out forestry road maintaining. Problem. Shindowa-Japan had the carburetors jetted for non-ethanol gasoline. The state prison had previously used more expensive Stihl-USA equipment for years with no problems. Stihl-USA had jetted richer for leaner running E10 entanol gasoline.
Now my 2015 Kawasaki V-twin rider lawnmower runs white-spark-plug-tip "popcorn fart" too lean on ethanol gasoline. Runs cooler, with more power on the non-ethanol "marine" ALL H's and C's gasoline.

Ha! Ha! If engine life/performance was credit-card easy to sort out, any dumb-ass could finger-it.
Be the smart-engine-ass. Direct observe each system as an induvidual.. Adapt. Adjust your usages. It will cost you long-run much, much less.
tree-farmer Steve Unruh
#11
Fordguy64 your development plan is reasonable, sensible, and DOable.
What I do here on the home tree-farm too. The house is kept on-grid "hers". Then you can really craft out step by step as you can afford (and convince) energy use savings change-outs.
Out-of-the-house I off-grid. Then "they"; the powers-that-be (includes the wife) cannot say yeah, or nay.
Gasoline/diesel/propane generate for your out-buildings off-gridding to supplement your PV solar. That really makes you energy use conscious. That really motivates you to craft less expensive DYI make power and heat options. Outbuildings get cold and damp.
The on-grid house can be your cord-out, back up "needs-must" successes/try-harder measuring stick. Wanna' metals weld takes lots of power or fuel!
Your off grid-outbuilding self-made powers capabilities, be the house back-up in events commanded power outages.
Believe me she will not protest cording in to her hair drier, coffee pot, baby bottle warmer, the refrigerator, a few hundred watts of LED lighting and such!! And be asking for MORE power. Sneaky way to get some loosening in the development budgets, man.
Voice of experiences.
tree-farmer Steve unruh
#12
General Discussion / Re: Cummins Engine
September 06, 2017, 03:30:23 PM
Yes you are coorect it was on Kauai.
My tricky brain has given me more nad more problems for years now. My once encyclopedic-memory got wettend when I fell asleep in the whirlpool tub-of-life I suspect.

Here is the article if I can gne tit to link:
https://longreads.com/2017/08/08/hard-lessons-in-living-off-the-grid/

Regards
tree-farmer Steve unruh
#13
General Discussion / Re: Cummins Engine
September 05, 2017, 12:51:43 PM
Interesting indeed Derb.
For many things, "cast iron does it better".
As a 16,17,18 y.o. lad back in 1969,70,71 I got a summer job at Ray P. Cosners Lawnmower & Small Engine shop.
I was paid $3.00 US for a lawnmower full tune-up/functions-restore IF I did not have to valve grind. $5.00 per unit that I did have to valve grind and/or piston rings replace.
The old then all cast iron B&S's, Kohlers were an easy dream to work on. Never any significant piston/bore/valve wear. Gummed up float type carburetors. Oxidized IG points.
The newer still valve in block/side valve aluminum engines not nearly as forgiving easy. The B&S's with pita die cast zink pumper suction carburetors. Yuk.
I was young. Young. and still quite a bit an engine dumb-dumb. The 2-stroke Lawnboys stumped me. I did not then know about crankshaft pressurization and shaft seals, intake reed valves.

The sweetest "old" cast iron small engine that I have is a JangDong R180.
Those old 1930's German engineers were smart.
Not much lost in the to-Japanese, then to-Chinesse translations of this extremely simple OHV design.

Mr Casey.
Net search up for readable link to "Tesla Comes to Kona".
About a young idealistic couple went off grid, solar. Disappointing that they could not grow exactly what they wanted. For subsistence, and selling. Disappointed to keep their batteries charged even with severe power use reductions they STILL had to gasoline generator run at times.
Sadly to me unable to see that they had more than half-filled many DIY glasses. Even letting forest-fears for their toddler child drive them.
Now looking, "to further educe their carbon footprint" by moving back to town and buying into the Islands co-operative Grid. And that co-operative being E.Musk (sp?) used as a Tesla battery demonstration site. Subsidized? Most likely.

Regards
Steve Unruh
#14
General Discussion / Re: Cummins Engine
August 30, 2017, 11:35:01 AM
Hey guys.
Actually these last two post of yours illistartes some important point about who, how, why the usibity and viabilty of "alternative" energies. Versus Dino.
J.M.Greer supports himself with selling his published writings. I just finished up reading his near-future (if-this-goes-on) novel "Twilight's Last Gleaming". A quote from page 52 by his 2026 then American President Weed:
". . . the scientists tried to come up with something to take the place of oil. You know the score: ethanol, wind, shale, solar, fusion, hydrates - - - one goddamn subsidy dumpster after another."
To build the big PNW hydroelectric dams that they did when I was  kid took lots and lots of petroleum dino fuel to make the concretes, steels; do the blasting excavating and such. I WATCH them build Trojan, and 3/4 build the Sasop Nuke power plants. Lot and lot of concrete, steels and diesel powered equipment used. I watch train loads of BIG wind tower, blades, gen housing being railed up the Columbia River gorge. Lot of Dino for the trains. Dino needed to ocean ship these in from European manufacturers. Dino in the form of Russian natural gas used by the European manufactures.
PV solar? I worked 7 years in the Washington State, Clark County electronic Fabs industry. High grade communications and power chips. OUR scrap and reject were carefully collected up and shipped for re-menting and regrowth into PV solar cells. These Fab plants: the Japanese one, the Korean one, The German one are multi billion dollar investments. Hugh amounts of Dino power made concrete and steels and glass and diesel powered equipment gone into their constructions.
Why Clark Countu WA? State tax grant subsidies. Huge. Location within one hour driving from Portland International Airport. Japanese/Korean/German execs, engineers, upper managers IN. High grade finished product out to the world. 'Nother reason. Local new immigrant and newly displaced NON-UNION manufacturing worker base willing to work hard long 12 hours shifts.
Many like J.M. Greer, Kustner, Martenson and other saying now without energy dense Dino-imputs no new big grid supping plants could be build. Even the existing built up by Dino infa-structures likr centralized Grids and macadam and concrete roads will not be able to be maintained.

Mr Casey hydrogen power is just another TOP-Down, don't worry, we will solve your problem spin. Just give us your votes to hog-out the dry holes. Our Elitist's positions and lifestyles depending on your sheepele bleating votes.
Tom Wolfe in his book, "The Right Stuff" attributes on of the first Apollo selected astronauts as insisting to one of the rocket scientists that really man, you only think these things will fly strictly by better application of your science. These lift off by Funding. You need us grandstanding to get the public interest, to get the votes, to get the funding.
Mr Casey popular literature's grandstanding for genuies-up replacement for petroleum fuels been going on hard since the early 1960's.

The BIG Y-in-the-road of usable, practical alternatives developing is distinctly hard turning from Top-Down for Others, to DOing it for me and mine.

OK Derb, as a proven DYI DOer . . . I know almost all on your equipment systems listing . . . what is the last one please?

Regards
tree-farmer Steve unruh
#15
General Discussion / Re: Cummins Engine
August 29, 2017, 02:20:48 PM
Yes John Micheal G. is kinda different appearing alright. Does not mean he is not very wide/deep in his historical and current reading, with a deep sense of organized societal/culturals history's patterns though.
His G.W. and later 2016 "Dark Ages America" books References and Bibliography sections shows this well. So let us be charitable and call him not libertarian, Democrat or Republican, eh. Independent. Very.
For an avowed Democrat read James Howard Kustner. Start with his "The Long Emergency".
For a Republican (former) read Chris Martenson PhD. Start with his "The Crash Course". I think he would now call himself a Libertarian. Or also very Independent.
John Micheal G. now moved from the PNW " . . living in Cumberland MD in an old mill town in the Appalachians"
James Howard K. now moved from NYC born, educated to living in a small New York mid-state town. With well proven historic water milling capability.
Chris Martensen and family now  from upper-yuppie east coast suburbia living in rural Massachusetts. "..for the soil capability and climate adaptability (natural rain), and good values neighbors . . ."
And I live on the edge of my wife's very small up in the casades foothills old-mill mountain town. Once with a 4kW small hydro-electric system with electric light before the City of Portland. Where I was born and grew up south county now has expaned out housing projects too. So foods gardening-wise I had to adapt from southern England to north Scotland so to speak. Needs-must.

And of course BobG. here moved back out to a small town in Kansas.

So, Mr Casey follow the lead of you wife and get out of the now urban-gut out to rural and real. They will not be operating jet airplanes on solar. Not ever. Just not in the energy math's capability. Passenger capable boats still do make a monthly or so back and forth with bulk freight to the Islands and back. Last I checked only out of S.F. area. Be easy to envision no-more-cheap petroleum isolation stay-put for HI Obamma-land.

tree-farmer Steve unruh